screwing in the subs?

[kickass audio]

thats perfect that the sub is held in tightly, who cares about taking the screws back out, you can do the trick i said before with taking a hammer and banging the bit into the screw head to take shape of it again.

And for too low, you really shouldnt go any lower than 2 notes of your tuning. For example my box is tuned to 30Hz so i have my 3sixty.2 set at a 12db crossover slope and with an infrasonic filter of 28Hz. This will only let the sub get down as low as 28Hz before it starts to drop off the music from playing out of the sub. If you go lower than that, it will cause the sub to work harder to try and reproduce the note that it cannot do and will bottom out. If it doesnt bottom out it will just get hot and burn the coil up. If your amp has a subsonic filter on it (idk if this model amp does or not) but if it does, try to set it around the tuning of your box. I would set that to about 34Hz. And for your lowpass, i always like setting it to 80Hz. It sounds good around that area to play music that is lower than 80Hz on a woofer.

[rysc86]

i would have went with bolts and t-nuts. Kick ass where do u get this idea that u have to drill the holes in the basket out to use tnuts? that would only be true if the "shaft" of the t-nut is longer than 3/4"(or whatever the total thickness of the baffle(s) your sub(s) mount to) causing the t-nut to stick up through the baffle and not allow your sub to sit flat on the baffle. most t-nuts won't even go through all the way through 3/4" material so as long the screw fits u would be good. The OP probably wouldn't have stripped the heads of his screws if he used t-nuts and bolts since u really don't feel "resistance" until the screws are down tight(you should stop screwing once it gets difficult or you will over-torque the tnut and make the teeth rip through the mdf and spin freely)

The way tnuts work is quite simple actually. they are basically nuts that look like a upside down "T" the bolt goes through the threaded "tube" part of the "T" the horizonal part of the "T" goes in the bottom of your baffle and its teeth keep it from turning when u screw the bolt.

The easiest way i found to install the t-nuts is to drill out your mounting holes to the size of the "tube" of the t-nut. the drill bit size is often labeled on the package of the tnuts or the container the store stores them in. put either wood glue,CA glue,2 part expoxy ect on the base of the tnut, push the tube part through the bottom of the baffle through your mounting hole and use a C clamp to push the teeth in the baffle. The problem with using a hammer is that it is really easy to get the tnut crooked vs the linear force of using a C clamp plus its way easier to use a C clamp than banging a hammer inside a already built box

[kickass audio]

i would have went with bolts and t-nuts. Kick ass where do u get this idea that u have to drill the holes in the basket out to use tnuts? that would only be true if the "shaft" of the t-nut is longer than 3/4"(or whatever the total thickness of the baffle(s) your sub(s) mount to) causing the t-nut to stick up through the baffle and not allow your sub to sit flat on the baffle. most t-nuts won't even go through all the way through 3/4" material so as long the screw fits u would be good. The OP probably wouldn't have stripped the heads of his screws if he used t-nuts and bolts since u really don't feel "resistance" until the screws are down tight(you should stop screwing once it gets difficult or you will over-torque the tnut and make the teeth rip through the mdf and spin freely)

The way tnuts work is quite simple actually. they are basically nuts that look like a upside down "T" the bolt goes through the threaded "tube" part of the "T" the horizonal part of the "T" goes in the bottom of your baffle and its teeth keep it from turning when u screw the bolt.

The easiest way i found to install the t-nuts is to drill out your mounting holes to the size of the "tube" of the t-nut. the drill bit size is often labeled on the package of the tnuts or the container the store stores them in. put either wood glue,CA glue,2 part expoxy ect on the base of the tnut, push the tube part through the bottom of the baffle through your mounting hole and use a C clamp to push the teeth in the baffle. The problem with using a hammer is that it is really easy to get the tnut crooked vs the linear force of using a C clamp plus its way easier to use a C clamp than banging a hammer inside a already built box

Rysc: the reason i drilled out the holes on my basket of my smd is that i used screws that were larger than that hole. I wanted to have the subwoofer screwed in very hard since it would be mounted with the magnet hanging out the back and anyone who owns one knows a smd woofer isnt light for the weight and length of the motor alone. I had to drill the basket out to fit the bolts through it and then i drilled out the wood of the enclosure a little bigger to fit the t-nut in tight. I know how t-nuts work as i used them and my baffle is a inch and a half thick so theres no way in hell the shaft of the t-nut could come through the box and hit my basket so thats not why i drilled out the basket. I did everything overkill for my system because i actually want it to last and not blow up like all my other ones did.

As for hammering them in the wood i should have described it better. I just hammered it in enough for them to stay in place while i screwed them down into the wood with the woofer on the board. That is what i did, i didnt hammer it all the way in without screwing them down to make sure it fits flush and is straight.

[milly]

thats perfect that the sub is held in tightly, who cares about taking the screws back out, you can do the trick i said before with taking a hammer and banging the bit into the screw head to take shape of it again.

And for too low, you really shouldnt go any lower than 2 notes of your tuning. For example my box is tuned to 30Hz so i have my 3sixty.2 set at a 12db crossover slope and with an infrasonic filter of 28Hz. This will only let the sub get down as low as 28Hz before it starts to drop off the music from playing out of the sub. If you go lower than that, it will cause the sub to work harder to try and reproduce the note that it cannot do and will bottom out. If it doesnt bottom out it will just get hot and burn the coil up. If your amp has a subsonic filter on it (idk if this model amp does or not) but if it does, try to set it around the tuning of your box. I would set that to about 34Hz. And for your lowpass, i always like setting it to 80Hz. It sounds good around that area to play music that is lower than 80Hz on a woofer.

I see....I play mostly decaf stuff and there are a few songs that get pretty low.....I love playing them because of that reason. (i like lows better than highs lol) I'll go and look at what my friend set my subsonic filter too...I think the lpf is set to 80 like you said.