slim2fattycake Posted September 2, 2011 Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 It can take 4 gauge but it doesn't need it. It has a 35 in amp fuse. There is no way it can make 1200 watts. I doubt it makes 600. It isn't even a class d its ab. The ground is skrewed to the frame. screwed? or bolted? on the frame itself? or just on the body of the car. if there is paint where the lug is attached to, did you sand off all the paint down to shiny metal? Self tapping screw into the frame and I used a metal brush to get the paint off. For the audiopipe amp you need 0/1 cable other wise itl clip your subs, it did it to me, but now that i got the right wire its perfect no complaints, and you need to run your 100 amp fuse it comes with, and i have the big three done to my truck and just with this one amp i can drop my system down to 10 volts, but soon ill be putting another in with batterys in the back so ill be set You have no idea what you're talking about. SPL-Lab REPCar: 1996 Honda Accord F22B1 CoupeSuspension: Megan Racing Full Street Coilover Dampener KitAlternator: DC Power XP 270Batteries: XS Power D5100 & D3100Wiring: KnuKonceptz & 2/0 Welding cableHeadunit: Kenwood KDC-MP642UComponents: Hybrid Audio ClarusAmplifers: Lanzar OPTI250X4Subwoofer: 2 Sundown Audio E8.v2Deadener: Sound Deadener ShowdownSPL Meter: SPL-Lab RTA Pro meterWant an SPL meter for a lot less than the cost of a Termlab, but just as accurate and has the same features? PM me.CA ref: (enellz, 92c1v1c, el_chupo_, Thixx, Kraudio12, SethPhillips, NJack2AF, JamesKarr, ExpoSport, 01 S 10, wgsj_fortvalley, fast306stang, Lakota, blackga, TheLow, adrian1185, the727kid, rudy, sundownz, lmllopez, traksta15, gentlejax, satchel50207, Bigthangs, Goindef154)CACO ref: (extremechevyman67, ghostmechanic, FatBoy2, TheMan007, bdufner, 350zkid, ironb, bmansbach)SSA ref as phi: ( shizzzon, porkchop, onebadmonte, stevemead, TRP, ///M5, denim)SMD ref: (DC Power Rob, Nathan@XSPOWER, Jman08)And then some. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandonrcm Posted September 2, 2011 Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 It can take 4 gauge but it doesn't need it. It has a 35 in amp fuse. There is no way it can make 1200 watts. I doubt it makes 600. It isn't even a class d its ab. The ground is skrewed to the frame. screwed? or bolted? on the frame itself? or just on the body of the car. if there is paint where the lug is attached to, did you sand off all the paint down to shiny metal? Self tapping screw into the frame and I used a metal brush to get the paint off. For the audiopipe amp you need 0/1 cable other wise itl clip your subs, it did it to me, but now that i got the right wire its perfect no complaints, and you need to run your 100 amp fuse it comes with, and i have the big three done to my truck and just with this one amp i can drop my system down to 10 volts, but soon ill be putting another in with batterys in the back so ill be set Yeah because the wire size makes your amp clip, not setting the gain wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m&c caraudio Posted September 2, 2011 Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 I had an ap1800 and I loved it . Slamed moved enough air for a hairtrick with 3-12's ....... then it fried and upgraded to a ap3000 with is just 2 1500's in one case and I have had no problems since then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maxim Posted September 2, 2011 Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 I used Knukonceptz 4 gauge to hook up both amps. One I used a Kolossus kit, one I ordered custom lengths of Kolossus cable (needed more than the kit offered). 4 gauge is the right size for the power/ground terminals on that amp. Use 1/0 (zero) gauge wire for the Big 3 (I also used Knu wire here, custom lengths). Set your gains right and you won't have to worry about clipping. wtf is lolcats? I'd def get a fat hooker if i had to resort to that kinda thing. I feel like they'd be grateful and work harder. Also its more bang for my buck, more real estate for my dollar if you catch my drift. its like the Costco of streetwalkers. I was hoping for 150 . I was hoping she would let me put it in her butt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockbrook Posted September 2, 2011 Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 So both The AP1500 and AP3000 use 4Gauge for grounds? Would a batt up front and in the back plus Big 3 be enough to handle a AP3000? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m&c caraudio Posted September 2, 2011 Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 The 1500 is 4 awg the 3000 is 0 awg...... I have a red top up front with a big 3 a stock 130 amp alt two runs of zero with a yellow top in the back. And I still dip down into the 11's when I let it Wang hard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockbrook Posted September 2, 2011 Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 See thats what scares me....Im afraid of dropping down to 11's. Dropping that low can fuck things up right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert8252 Posted September 2, 2011 Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 What the fuck..... So much bad info here. It's a decent amp. Never clamped the one i ran but it worked fine on a dc xl. It only need 4g wire. Big three in 4g will be fine. Most stock alternators will handle it. Ran mine on stock alt and battery for a few months with zero issues. Make sure all connections are tight and grounds sanded to bare metal. Use the 100amp inline anl fuse it comes with. You'll want an extra 100 amp fuse as well. Place one within a foot of the battery and one within a foot of the amp. It has no internal fusing. The audiopipe fuse holder is identical to a knuconceptz fuse holder. 2013 F150 Crew Cab Old Build Log Feedback 2013 F150 Equipment - Some Awesome Stereo Sound Making Stuff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m&c caraudio Posted September 2, 2011 Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 It can fry the amp but you just have to be careful. I try not to let it dip under 12 tho I've played my system full tilt for about 30 minutes under 12 volts and didn't fry anything . When my 1800 fried I didn't even have the sub out on on the hu all I heard was a pop and saw smoke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slim2fattycake Posted September 2, 2011 Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 if you're afraid of the magic smoke then dont run that much power until you have the electrical to back it up. its pretty simple. SPL-Lab REPCar: 1996 Honda Accord F22B1 CoupeSuspension: Megan Racing Full Street Coilover Dampener KitAlternator: DC Power XP 270Batteries: XS Power D5100 & D3100Wiring: KnuKonceptz & 2/0 Welding cableHeadunit: Kenwood KDC-MP642UComponents: Hybrid Audio ClarusAmplifers: Lanzar OPTI250X4Subwoofer: 2 Sundown Audio E8.v2Deadener: Sound Deadener ShowdownSPL Meter: SPL-Lab RTA Pro meterWant an SPL meter for a lot less than the cost of a Termlab, but just as accurate and has the same features? PM me.CA ref: (enellz, 92c1v1c, el_chupo_, Thixx, Kraudio12, SethPhillips, NJack2AF, JamesKarr, ExpoSport, 01 S 10, wgsj_fortvalley, fast306stang, Lakota, blackga, TheLow, adrian1185, the727kid, rudy, sundownz, lmllopez, traksta15, gentlejax, satchel50207, Bigthangs, Goindef154)CACO ref: (extremechevyman67, ghostmechanic, FatBoy2, TheMan007, bdufner, 350zkid, ironb, bmansbach)SSA ref as phi: ( shizzzon, porkchop, onebadmonte, stevemead, TRP, ///M5, denim)SMD ref: (DC Power Rob, Nathan@XSPOWER, Jman08)And then some. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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