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Ok, so my setup consists of 2saz 4500s,

Little rundown of issues

had a pioneer deck, saz4500s at .9strapped (yes..i have decent electrical..)

pionner faceplate got uber loose from flex and liked to shut display off and kill tunes but rmote lead still had power (amps stayed on)

Go buy myself a new kenwood kdc got it all playing, go to test and amps go into protect... never protected with pioneer deck ...

Rewired to 3ohm and no more protect but..its not nearly as loud as it was.

Also this knwood deck seems like it stops sendiNg RCA voltage afte a.certian point ...not quite sure how to explain it

bassically what im asking is, why would changing a deck make and go Into protect? When at 1ohm couldnt even get 3/4 volume..

1998 gmc extd cab

12 crossfire C710s

4 SAZ-4500s

3 Singer 400A alts
buncha mids/highs

Team Asshole

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Do you happen to hear anything like a sudden pop when your radio stops playing the music and comes back? I had this the other day with my system and i have a dc audio 5.0k and a 175.4 amp. My amps and i believe yours does too have a protection circuit to stop playing dc power over 4v on the speaker wires. This will prevent you from "popping" the speaker from a sudden surge of power going through the system. I had mine go into protect on accident when i connected the power to my 3sixty.2 and the amps were still powered on (stupid me forgot to shut the radio off). Well i plugged my 3sixty.2 into the power and all i heard was a very loud pop from the sub and door speakers kicking on from that surge of power and my amps all went into protect. I thought for sure i fried all my speakers but i turned the radio off and back on and i was back up and running and none of my speakers died.

Anyways, id see if you happen to have any dc output on your rca's at all because there is a protection called dc offset in which if you output a dc signal, your amp will cut the power and go into protect. Now this protection will not work with clipping because there is still a sine wave its just lopped off severely. With dc offset, the sine wave is a pure line which is DC, not AC like sound works at and is very bad for your amp to run in a mode like this. Id also check your ground wire on your radio just to make sure its getting a decent connection, you can never be too sure about grounding things. Also try to look at your voltage on your remote wires with your new kenwood deck. See if when the amps start to cut out if the voltage drops below around 12v, if it does then you need to get a relay because your amps are drawing more power than the headunit can put out for the remote turn on lead. Also to check into more detail about your speakers cutting out at a certain volume on your radio, take a DMM and set it to ACV and test the rca's to see if it shows voltage when you turn the radio up past a certain level. If there is always voltage the headunit is in good shape.

2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress

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The amps just go into protect at like...1/2-3/4 volume, i pit my old pioneer back in and its bettter, still protects tho,

Before i put kenwood in, i was running pioneer (the one thats bck I

now) and it would never go into protect...and i was beeaating on it pretty good! and now, after running kenwood it seems to go into protect , hen it never used to.

this weekend im going to rewie to 1.4ohm and then i should be golden, and possibly even try .45 per amp UNstrapped, jacob said sometimes the amps dont like to be strapped

1998 gmc extd cab

12 crossfire C710s

4 SAZ-4500s

3 Singer 400A alts
buncha mids/highs

Team Asshole

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Have you tested your impedance rise at all before you think to wire at .45 per amp? Id hate to see good amps get burnt from dangerous impedance loads. I'm not trying to bash on you but knowing your impedance rise opens all kinds of doors to what you can do with your system and be safe doing so. Do you happen to have an amp for your mids and highs or do they run off your headunit? If you have a mids and high amp see if that goes in protect too. Sometimes different amps and other equipment can cause really different results. Also did you redo your amp gains when you swapped headunits?

2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress

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That does not make any sense your voltage drop is worse at a higher imp load. Your amp should be really at 2 ohms strapped. Heres the thing with strapping amps up..

If the amps minimum nominal impedance is 1 ohm, the minimal nominal impedance strapped is double that, which would be 2 ohms. If the amps minimum nominal impedance is .5 ohms, its strapped nom impedance would be 1 ohm.

Sometimes you can do what i got lucky with in my system and use impedance rise to get your imp up high enough to try and trick your amps protection circuit to not kick in and shut the amp off but other times its smarter than that and knows what you are doing to it and shuts off. I have my dc 5.0k wired at a nominal impedance load of .5 ohms. The amp is only made to drop down to 1 ohm nominal but my impedance rise gets up to .96-1.1 ohms so im fine for that. Ive tested my voltage drop and heat from the amp and sub and it does not have any when im slamming on it so im perfectly fine with mine.

What impedance are your subwoofer(s)? Do you have a clamp meter you can use to see what your impedance rise is? Also, did your problem with the music cutting out still occur once you swapped the impedance of your sub?

2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress

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Whats your electrical on your vehicle like? Do you have a h/o alt? Did you do the big-3? What/how many batteries do you have? Also one big thing i noticed even with the electrical i have now is the voltage drop was bad until i had grounded right directly to the frame of my truck. Im going to make that ground better and run a direct ground wire from front to back but until then my chassis serves pretty well. If you have a car that is uni-body construction they dont really have a great ability to ground as cars with solid frames do because there are so many points on the body which are painted and have bad grounds on them. I had this problem with my old car which was a uni-body.

2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress

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