speedball1978 Posted October 26, 2011 Report Posted October 26, 2011 It has to be the remote wire getting too hot causing it to cut in and out if ur remote is jumped from the positive terminal....that will cause the problem...run the remote behind the headunit or the fuse box.... Quote
traxxas101 Posted October 26, 2011 Author Report Posted October 26, 2011 It has to be the remote wire getting too hot causing it to cut in and out if ur remote is jumped from the positive terminal....that will cause the problem...run the remote behind the headunit or the fuse box.... so run my romote to one of the accessories fuses in the fuse box?? Quote
Real96SS Posted October 26, 2011 Report Posted October 26, 2011 Where did you ground the amp? have you checked the power wire from the battery to the amp?The only other thing I can tell you is to try and get another amp to test it and once you take that one out, without it hooked up take a piece of wire and on the disconnected amp touch the positive and negative points together.I had a problem a long time ago with a hifonics amp and took it to a shop and they did that and the amp worked fined after that.I have no clue what exactly it does but it did spark a little when he did it like it was dissipating the electricity or something. Quote Vehicle 2007 Chevrolet Avalanche(Co-Co) DNX9980HD 6 Team Fi 15's(King Edition) 3 DC 9k's 8 Nendo PWX 8's 4 Custom Steg 4" Super Tweeters 1 DC Audio 175.4 1 DC Audio 90.4 Rockford 360.3 3 DC Power 370xp Alts(Externally regulated) 21 D1600's 2 D4800's All SMD RCA's AudioTechnix Deadner Viper Alarm My YouTube- http://www.youtube.c...NG?feature=mhee Link to buildlog- http://www.stevemead...4-15s-2-dc-9ks/ Link to UBL- http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/165059-ublkings-avalanchecoco-new-build-starting8-king-edition-15-team-fis-in-a-wallyes-a-wall/
speedball1978 Posted October 26, 2011 Report Posted October 26, 2011 That is correct sir make sure its a 12 volt hot but able to shut off your amp when you turn the car off you do. Ot want the amp to be on when the car is not even on it will simply drain the car battery Quote
Guest Posted October 26, 2011 Report Posted October 26, 2011 (edited) It has to be the remote wire getting too hot causing it to cut in and out if ur remote is jumped from the positive terminal....that will cause the problem...run the remote behind the headunit or the fuse box.... if a wire is jumped from amp + to remote (which he did as a test), the amp should work perfectly fine. its the same exact thing as having a headunit's amp turn on lead wired up to it. amps draw a max of what, like .5 amps through the remote wire? unless his remote wire run is 30 gauge and 40 feet long, this doesnt cause the problem he's talking about. Edited October 26, 2011 by Kranny Quote
traxxas101 Posted October 26, 2011 Author Report Posted October 26, 2011 That is correct sir make sure its a 12 volt hot but able to shut off your amp when you turn the car off you do. Ot want the amp to be on when the car is not even on it will simply drain the car battery thank you sir=) Quote
traxxas101 Posted October 26, 2011 Author Report Posted October 26, 2011 It has to be the remote wire getting too hot causing it to cut in and out if ur remote is jumped from the positive terminal....that will cause the problem...run the remote behind the headunit or the fuse box.... if a wire is jumped from amp + to remote (which he did as a test), the amp should work perfectly fine. its the same exact thing as having a headunit's amp turn on lead wired up to it. amps draw a max of what, like .5 amps through the remote wire? unless his remote wire run is 30 gauge and 40 feet long, this doesnt cause the problem he's talking about. agreed! Quote
AA98hoe Posted October 26, 2011 Report Posted October 26, 2011 You said oem integrated. So how are you catching the signal out from stock deck? Rca input voltage could be a issue.. what kind of amp? Kind of car? And check power and ground connection.what is the amp powering? Subs? Highs? Quote TEAM DC AUDIO VEHICLE:98 chevy tahoe 2wd 3-4 drop HEADUNIT:alpine 9886 PREAMP:arcaudio FRONT STAGE:4-6 1/2s selinium,DD component set and 4-selinium tweeters in each door KICKPANELS:jl audio 5 1/4 REAR DOORS: dd components 6 1/2s HIGHS AMPS:zapco 750.2 on front doors,zapco an another 750.2 on kicks and rear doors SUBS:4-ascendant audio 18s with 5 spiders in a custom box built by KINGSUV SUB AMP: 2-dc7.5s ALTERNATORS: 3-mechmans 1- 425comp, 1-smd spec350, 1-270 with adj voltage harness on custom dc bracket WIRE:10-runs 0g front to back BATTERIES:6-d1400s TL results:157.1 at 38hz and 156.8 at headrest score @37hz. STATE AND NATIONAL RECORD IN MECA S5.
traxxas101 Posted October 26, 2011 Author Report Posted October 26, 2011 You said oem integrated. So how are you catching the signal out from stock deck? Rca input voltage could be a issue.. what kind of amp? Kind of car? And check power and ground connection.what is the amp powering? Subs? Highs? alright i had the remote hooked up to the 12v ignition on the fuse box, so when he hit the key the amp turned on.. no prob there and i unplug the rcas and turned on the amp with the car running it still did it! and btw.. agian the amp is fine when the car is off.. its a Phoenix Gold R2.0:1 Octane R 2.0:1 amp powering a 10 inch infinity sub at 4ohms.. the amp does this with nothing hooked to it just the - and + with a jumper off the + for a remote.. still does it im thinkin the + power cable is messed up somewhere along the line Quote
mikeg321 Posted October 26, 2011 Report Posted October 26, 2011 Do you have any other amp you can hook up in the car to eliminate the amp as the problem? Quote 4 fully loaded Fi sp4 15's 2 Crescendo bc5500s Crescendo c1100.4 6 focal mids Vifa tweets 5 XS Power d3100's Pioneer avh-p4200dvd All crammed into a mustang. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/150569-mikeg321s-fi-nendo-mustang-getting-walled-videos-page-4/
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