**Hollywood** Posted October 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 That's to amp neg to batt ground , I used jumper cables linked together maybe that's where the restance is comming from , I really don't think it's the ground , why would it still work In slave mode but not master Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryan916 Posted October 30, 2011 Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 That I don't know. Im just sharing how I solved my problem that is sort of similar. Perhaps you should send the manufacturer an email or call. Something surely isn't right, whether its on the amps end or install end, who knows. I hope you can figure this out, its always a huge kill joy to have new toys that don't work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
**Hollywood** Posted October 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 An expincive toy , I think I'm retiring from car audio again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryan916 Posted October 30, 2011 Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 I don't think you should give up so easily. The hobby is often frustrating, and yes it is expensive, but so rewarding when it all lines up and those long, boring drives become some of the most enjoyable parts of the day. Hit up the manufacturer and troubleshoot some more. You'll be bangin soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
**Hollywood** Posted October 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 I'll see what r/f has to say Tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickass audio Posted October 30, 2011 Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 Why dont you try this. First of all seat bolt grounds are NEVER a good grounding location. If you can get a nut and a bolt or ground to a strut tower it would be the best ground over a cheap seat belt bolt. Also for your resistance try doing this to figure the resistance of your jumper cable. Take the red probe of your DMM and touch one side of the jumper cables wire, take the black probe of the DMM and touch the opposite side of the same cable on your jumper wire. The resistance you read is the resting resistance you will ALWAYS have on that able. Now you need to figure if your DMM is accurate or not, to do this just touch the red and black probes together without it being connected to any wires and read the resistance, if you have anything more than 0.000 on it then this is even more resistance you have. So lets say you do this and you find out that the resistance of your jumper cable is 1 ohm and the resistance of your meter itself is .2 ohms. Your readings for resistance will be off by 1.2 ohms with anything you read resistance on so you MUST subtract this from your resistance you are reading at the end. Now if you go back into your car and measure the resistance from the ground of the amp to the seat belt bolt and it reads 8.2 ohms then you would take the 8.2 ohms you read and subtract that from the 1.2 ohms your meter is off by. The final result is that you have 7 ohms of resistance on your amps ground wire and it needs to be fixed or you can kill the amp. I always make sure there is no paint, rust, corrosion, loose bolts/nuts, and a good crimp on the connections when you have resistance. Also one thing you should do (its overkill but it helps so much more than you can think) is to disconnect the ground cable from the amp and seat belt bolt. Measure the resistance of JUST that cable and see what it is. I have my one run of 1/0 to the rear battery bank that has .5 ohms of resistance on it due to my fuse blocks but the rest of the wire is at 0. Id double check the resistance across all the wires. Also just as a friendly reminder NEVER test resistance by taking the positive probe and negative probe and touching your batteries positive and negative terminals. Resistance can never be tested on energized circuits and it will blow your multimeters fuse if you do this. Quote 2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
**Hollywood** Posted October 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 I'll try in out and see Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickass audio Posted October 30, 2011 Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 sounds good bro. if you get stuck let me know. i have had the same problems with my first systems too and its a pain and gets very frustrating but just take your time and you will figure it out. If you want to make sure the amp is truly working connect it directly to your battery (ie power and ground going to the battery itself, not the frame or anything) then take the remote turn on wire and put that to the positive output of your battery. The amp should then turn on. If it does then your amp is working so far. Quote 2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
**Hollywood** Posted October 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 Tried switching grounds , it's where the door Lach connects to the body , same prob no sound , tell u switch amp into slave mode and the subs move a little , Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickass audio Posted October 30, 2011 Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 change the ground. Do not use seat belt, seat, door latches, hinges, or any other bolt like this. They are piss poor bolts that will not conduct enough electricity to make that power hungry amp work. Also when you say it works when its in slave mode, does it actually play music or does it just make a pop noise or hum? What kind of vehicle is this installed in? Id say connect it directly to your battery if you can as this will provide enough power if your battery is properly charged to turn the amp on and play some music. Your rca inputs are connected directly to your amps input connections? Also your amps master/slave switch should be set to single (all the way to the left) and your rca's should be connected to the left most rca connectors (near the control knobs/switches). The amp should not work in master/slave at all as there needs to be another amp which is connected with the bd-sync cable to complete the circuit and allow the amp to communicate. Quote 2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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