dmanson Posted November 15, 2007 Report Share Posted November 15, 2007 That would Def work, but I dont have money to buy a battery right now The 1/0 T sounds like a Great idea, never thought about it. Thanks. But I guess my main question now is about the fuse/relay box and my stock wiring. Can I take all the stock wiring out and just replace it with my own 0 guage? and then just run an 8 gauge from the battery to the fuse box? Sorry if im being difficult, lol. i'm sure replacing your stock wires would be cool, but i wouldn't chance it bro. if you decide to sell the truck down the road it would look better to just take the extra wires that you'd add out and the stock wires are still there. a battery with side posts would definitely ease your pain but getting a distribution block would work too......... you'd just have to find a good place under your hood to mount it so it wouldn't shift around while driving. Quote 2-DC 15XLM2 D.7s 1-DC 5K amp (1) XS Power D6500(UNDERHOOD) and (1) XS3000(REAR) 3 runs 1/0ga for power and 2 runs of 1/0ga for negative. (2)-RFT165s components, ...... 4 separate 1 inch tweetersRF T600-2(fronts) Punch 450.4(rear) Audiocontrol 3.1. DC power 260amp alternator w/MLA Module Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
w87will Posted November 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2007 Im pretty sure I can just take out my harness in one piece. then Just run 0 gauge in its place that way I'd be able to just put it back in if needed. just the whole pos to fuse/relay is confusing me. Im sure it needed to be ran there, but is 8 gauge enough or would it have to also be 0 gauge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmanson Posted November 15, 2007 Report Share Posted November 15, 2007 i see where you are getting at bro. let's just put things like that. you want to do the big 3 right? run 1/0 from the + side of the battery .............+ side alternator, the from the - side of battery ground it with 1/0 somewhere to the chasis. then redo the - side of the alternator with 1/0 and ground it to the chasis also, leave all stock wiring alone if possible. Quote 2-DC 15XLM2 D.7s 1-DC 5K amp (1) XS Power D6500(UNDERHOOD) and (1) XS3000(REAR) 3 runs 1/0ga for power and 2 runs of 1/0ga for negative. (2)-RFT165s components, ...... 4 separate 1 inch tweetersRF T600-2(fronts) Punch 450.4(rear) Audiocontrol 3.1. DC power 260amp alternator w/MLA Module Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derrick824 Posted November 15, 2007 Report Share Posted November 15, 2007 It'll be fine if you completely replace your factory wiring. If it was me I would just get a better battery terminal that can accomodate your added wiring a little better. You won't need to upgrade the wire from your battery to factory fuse block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joey2714 Posted November 15, 2007 Report Share Posted November 15, 2007 find a battery terminal that takes ring terminals, and just attach everything to that. Leave your stock wiring alone Quote play Moola.com its actually fun and free... click here to join Money games! its just games with free money! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmanson Posted November 15, 2007 Report Share Posted November 15, 2007 find a battery terminal that takes ring terminals, and just attach everything to that. Leave your stock wiring alone and that's not a bad ideal with getting a battery terminal that takes ring terminals. now i know you said you really don't have the money and that's a nice terminal you already have but a battery with a side post would really do the trick and i'm sure walmart, advanced auto or someone are selling them for cheap. Quote 2-DC 15XLM2 D.7s 1-DC 5K amp (1) XS Power D6500(UNDERHOOD) and (1) XS3000(REAR) 3 runs 1/0ga for power and 2 runs of 1/0ga for negative. (2)-RFT165s components, ...... 4 separate 1 inch tweetersRF T600-2(fronts) Punch 450.4(rear) Audiocontrol 3.1. DC power 260amp alternator w/MLA Module Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
w87will Posted November 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2007 First of all, thanks for the replys, very helpfull. Ok here's what I think im going to do: Keep my stock wiring, haha. then Ill just pick up one of those 1/0 "T's" and run from my battery to the T then Ill put my 1/0 amp wire in one end and then the pos to alt in the other, then Ill obviously do the grounds and everything. Sounds good to me... will that work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmanson Posted November 15, 2007 Report Share Posted November 15, 2007 First of all, thanks for the replys, very helpfull. Ok here's what I think im going to do: Keep my stock wiring, haha. then Ill just pick up one of those 1/0 "T's" and run from my battery to the T then Ill put my 1/0 amp wire in one end and then the pos to alt in the other, then Ill obviously do the grounds and everything. Sounds good to me... will that work? sounds like a plan bro .......... just remember to mount the distribution block so it wont shift while driving and you'll be good to go. Quote 2-DC 15XLM2 D.7s 1-DC 5K amp (1) XS Power D6500(UNDERHOOD) and (1) XS3000(REAR) 3 runs 1/0ga for power and 2 runs of 1/0ga for negative. (2)-RFT165s components, ...... 4 separate 1 inch tweetersRF T600-2(fronts) Punch 450.4(rear) Audiocontrol 3.1. DC power 260amp alternator w/MLA Module Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
w87will Posted November 16, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2007 Cool thanks. One more question, what reason, other than selling the vehicle later on and maybe losing just "alittle" more power, is it not a good idea to take out the stock wiring? Mine is all tied together in one harnes that could easily be removed and replaced with 1/0. I guess Im not going to do that, I just want to know why keep it in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmanson Posted November 16, 2007 Report Share Posted November 16, 2007 Cool thanks. One more question, what reason, other than selling the vehicle later on and maybe losing just "alittle" more power, is it not a good idea to take out the stock wiring? Mine is all tied together in one harnes that could easily be removed and replaced with 1/0. I guess Im not going to do that, I just want to know why keep it in? i reasonly couldn't give you an honest reason and why to keep the stock wires bro. with wires you can always go around them. it's just always been a rule of thump to leave the factory in and add to improve performance. Quote 2-DC 15XLM2 D.7s 1-DC 5K amp (1) XS Power D6500(UNDERHOOD) and (1) XS3000(REAR) 3 runs 1/0ga for power and 2 runs of 1/0ga for negative. (2)-RFT165s components, ...... 4 separate 1 inch tweetersRF T600-2(fronts) Punch 450.4(rear) Audiocontrol 3.1. DC power 260amp alternator w/MLA Module Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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