XtremeSPL-SCAMMER Posted November 18, 2007 Author Report Posted November 18, 2007 10 GA is way overkill for remote, you only need like 18 gauge man. and why are you doing two runs of 4 gauge for power and 2 runs of 1/0 for ground? just do one run of 1/0 for power and 1 run of 1/0 for ground cause thats what i have.... IM A LOW LIFE SCAMMER SO I WAS BANT....TEH HAMMA is NOT my friend
XtremeSPL-SCAMMER Posted November 18, 2007 Author Report Posted November 18, 2007 and it is 18 gauge... i hit the wrong number ;p IM A LOW LIFE SCAMMER SO I WAS BANT....TEH HAMMA is NOT my friend
XtremeSPL-SCAMMER Posted November 18, 2007 Author Report Posted November 18, 2007 Thats not a T1000. T = RF Power series. It might be a Punch P1000.1. It might be.. it is on its way to me right now.. i just bought it... i was told it was a 1000.1 amp.. and i talkin to goinpro. I told him the amp was chrome, and he told me they made a chrome 25 to life amp. I really dont know much about RF.. just what the owner manual says ;p the amp is 2 years old.. it is a 2005 model. IM A LOW LIFE SCAMMER SO I WAS BANT....TEH HAMMA is NOT my friend
ChevyBoy Posted November 19, 2007 Report Posted November 19, 2007 10 GA is way overkill for remote, you only need like 18 gauge man. and why are you doing two runs of 4 gauge for power and 2 runs of 1/0 for ground? just do one run of 1/0 for power and 1 run of 1/0 for ground most companies will tell you to atleast use a 14 gauge. some say 12.
goinpro Posted November 19, 2007 Report Posted November 19, 2007 ya sorry man that definitly not a T...i dont know which one that is. Sorry this is the one i was talking about Amp 2005 Nissan Altima 2.5 S HU: AVIC-D2 Fronts: ARC Audio KAR KS6006 Components AA Poly Mids/ CDT CW-19 Tweets in kicks Front Amp: Profile AP400x2 Rear Fill: None Sub: DC LVL 4 (CF Dustcap) x2 (waiting for dustcaps) AMP: RF t10001bd x2 (1400-1500 @ 1 ohm) Wire: Welding Supply/Lighting Audio 1/0 Power/Ground Zero Noise 2.0zn RCA (x2) 260 Amp Iraggi Alternator
XtremeSPL-SCAMMER Posted November 19, 2007 Author Report Posted November 19, 2007 ya sorry man that definitly not a T...i dont know which one that is. Sorry this is the one i was talking about Amp it is cool ryan... that is a sexy amp though... i dont care if it is a T series or P series.. as long as it is 1000.1 helll i got it for 61.00 on ebay... no reserve.. and 12.00 shipping 2 day delivery. IM A LOW LIFE SCAMMER SO I WAS BANT....TEH HAMMA is NOT my friend
goinpro Posted November 19, 2007 Report Posted November 19, 2007 whatever gets it done 2005 Nissan Altima 2.5 S HU: AVIC-D2 Fronts: ARC Audio KAR KS6006 Components AA Poly Mids/ CDT CW-19 Tweets in kicks Front Amp: Profile AP400x2 Rear Fill: None Sub: DC LVL 4 (CF Dustcap) x2 (waiting for dustcaps) AMP: RF t10001bd x2 (1400-1500 @ 1 ohm) Wire: Welding Supply/Lighting Audio 1/0 Power/Ground Zero Noise 2.0zn RCA (x2) 260 Amp Iraggi Alternator
XtremeSPL-SCAMMER Posted November 19, 2007 Author Report Posted November 19, 2007 i am taking out the back seat back rests later on today.. taking out the front seats to run all wiring.. and then taking out the moldings.. IM A LOW LIFE SCAMMER SO I WAS BANT....TEH HAMMA is NOT my friend
dmanson Posted November 19, 2007 Report Posted November 19, 2007 i'm sorry bro but that chrome RF amp is not a T1000.1 doesn't even look like a p1000.1 either, they are way longer than that....... it's just not. step that power wire up to 1/0 just like you ground, do not use that 4ga for power ......... you'll lose in the end. you already have a nice sub, give it some clean power bro and you'll bang for sure. good luck on your build and excuse me for the criticism. 2-DC 15XLM2 D.7s 1-DC 5K amp (1) XS Power D6500(UNDERHOOD) and (1) XS3000(REAR) 3 runs 1/0ga for power and 2 runs of 1/0ga for negative. (2)-RFT165s components, ...... 4 separate 1 inch tweetersRF T600-2(fronts) Punch 450.4(rear) Audiocontrol 3.1. DC power 260amp alternator w/MLA Module
XtremeSPL-SCAMMER Posted November 19, 2007 Author Report Posted November 19, 2007 i'm sorry bro but that chrome RF amp is not a T1000.1 doesn't even look like a p1000.1 either, they are way longer than that....... it's just not. step that power wire up to 1/0 just like you ground, do not use that 4ga for power ......... you'll lose in the end. you already have a nice sub, give it some clean power bro and you'll bang for sure. good luck on your build and excuse me for the criticism. I just got that sub and box. I bought it from goinpro on friday he is close to me.. i put 340 miles on my car rountrip.. I was told it is a 1000.1 i will see when it comes on wednesday.. and if not, i will give the person a negative feedback for telling me one thing, and it is not.. i am using the 4 gauge cause i have it.. i dont have the money right now to buy 1/0 gauge.. and unless you are gonna send me all the 1/0 gauge... you do with what you have.. I have a lot of power cables. when they broke into my car and stole everything, they let me keep a few things... NOT MUCH... but a few things.. They stole my 2 powerbass 15's in a wall.. and stole the wall.. so i think there was 2 people walkin down the street to where ever they parked their car or truck.. and then took the time unscrew all my amp screws and the cap. and ripped my ground wire out of the frame, but lefty the copper fitting.. they left my 4 books of cds.. but ripped my deck right out of my dash. didnt damaghe the dash much.. and my fucken akon cd was in there, but... i have it backed up on my laptop so i burned a new copy.. but still.. anyway, i dont mind people telling me what i need to do, trust me, i would have already done it, if i was sitting better $$$$ wise IM A LOW LIFE SCAMMER SO I WAS BANT....TEH HAMMA is NOT my friend
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