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Sub parts.


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I dont know but based on the price of recones id assume the price of the sum of raw parts should be less.

Loudness is no substitute for musicianship, and partial deafness is no badge of honor. I was once able to hear this advice.

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Alright man thanks, i'll see if i can message them and get some numbers. The basket has to fit to a 10 inch sub if that's what i want to cone it to correct? That's all.

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http://www.stevemead...60#entry1958353

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So im looking up voice coils at the moment as im reading it states "By driving a current through the voice coil, a magnetic field is produced. This magnetic field causes the voice coil to react to the magnetic field from a permanent magnet fixed to the speaker's frame, thereby moving the cone of the speaker" by this do they mean, the more layers of voice coil i get the more excursion there will be on the sub because of the magnetic force? :)

Check out my build log:

http://www.stevemead...60#entry1958353

Different folks have different strokes.

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Maybe someone else could chime in to add/correct if need be. But anywho, more layers needs a wider gap and adds to the moving mass. But now you have to take into account the coils material and shape (flat or round). Aluminum, copper, ccaw, etc. will also change moving mass along with thermal handling, motor force, sensitivity. It's more than just wire wound around a former and stuffed into a fixed magnet. Now you see why this stuff gets so expensive. All the options and even the R&D behind them.

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Yeah man i do get why it gets so expensive haha, it's alright i gotta get my setup solid first anyways. I was watching Wicked's vid about his new job, and saw the work the guy did ont he door, for new speakers. What's the exact term for that? Would be something to learn about as well. Maybe something to try before the sub idea.

Check out my build log:

http://www.stevemead...60#entry1958353

Different folks have different strokes.

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Longer coils mean more xmax, but the bottom plate of the motor needs to be far enough away for the coil not to hit it, and the spider needs to be far enough from the top plate, AND your surround/spider/tinsel leads all need to be able to handle the excursion..

Thicker coils can provide more motor force but you also need to take into account how tight the gap is...

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Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

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