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Posted

Ok guys I got my car and am ready to start the design phase. Its a 2000 Subaru Legacy.

The thing is though I want to try to keep the spare tire accessible.

Here's a list of what i got: (Keep in mind I got it from a nearby shop)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OKjfOPewgAM

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/attachments/mobile-audio-video-classifieds/38091d1064296657-eclipse-indash-6-disc-changer-5962-eclipsechanger.jpg

http://www.savinglots.com/pimages/SIRECL-1.jpg

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3099_Boston-Acoustics-SL60.html

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-dWFPbXPrxaX/p_065SX65/Boston-Acoustics-SX65.html

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3697_Boston-Acoustics-GT-42.html

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.asp?item_id=108232

2 of these

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.asp?item_id=108270&locale=en_us

Ported box made for the p1's

a Memphis 1 farad capacitor

a stinger 1 farad digital capacitor

I wanted to know:

What wiring to use? Sizes? Big 3? Alternator? battery?

How should i put the stuff in the trunk? (basically design me a trunk layout)

What do you think of the "peel and seal" as a deadening?

Egg crate foam in doors?

Any other info,tips,tricks I should know?

Pics of trunk:

http://www.google.com/imgres?um=1&hl=en&client=firefox-a&sa=N&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&biw=1366&bih=665&tbm=isch&tbnid=IVARhXRGWhofiM:&imgrefurl=http://www.familycarguide.com/photos/subaru_legacy-sedan_2003&docid=DgdgC5LdebaEZM&imgurl=http://images.thecarconnection.com/med/2003-subaru-legacy-sedan-4-door-outback-ltd-auto-trunk_100264918_m.jpg&w=640&h=480&ei=TMreTui4Ferh0QG4moHPBw&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=373&vpy=295&dur=948&hovh=194&hovw=259&tx=164&ty=108&sig=109854734072376390603&page=4&tbnh=136&tbnw=180&start=54&ndsp=18&ved=1t:429,r:7,s:54

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3857138/2002-subaru-legacy/page-2#38571380025

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/543359/2000-subaru-legacy#5433590006

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/hifi_homeboy/Subaru%202000%20Legact%20GT/P1030346.jpg

http://www.familycar.com/RoadTests/SubaruOutback/SedanImages/Trunk.jpg

Posted

I would go 0 gauge because eventually you will want to upgrade later so why do the work twice. I would do Stinger just because I like the brand but thats personal preference, darvex.com has the best pricing on Stinger wiring. Stock alt should work fine for a 300w system. DON'T YOU DARE USE peel & seal I swear this topic comes up every week but peel & seal does not measure up to something like Second Skin or Stinger RoadKill hit up SSrep here I think his name is John. No cutting corners deaden all doors you could even go with Fatmat which I hear is a good cheaper alternative. With 300w RMS I don't think you would really need to deaden just yet. Plan everything out accordingly and take your time do it right the first time.

P.S. WELCOME to SMD!!!

2013 Dodge Charger

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1996 Ford Explorer XLT 5.0
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2005 Honda Civic LX Coupe

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SMD SUPER SELLER!!!!
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Posted

is yours a wagon or sedan?

i have a 95 legacy wagon and these cars get loud on low power. the only thing is i still need to deaden my whole car because of the horrible rattles. also i would look into a second battery because these alternators are VERY small. 85-90 amp at the most..... even in your 2000. a new high output alternator for our cars is between 350 and 600 dollars...... ive been trying to find out a way to remove the a/c compressor and mount another alt in there......trying to find the perfect alt though.... non subaru I might add. good luck with the build! if you need tech advise on these soobs lemme know i am VERY familiar with most subarus.

:)

-jarrid

edit: definitly do the big 3 and find ALL of your ground points in the engine bay and sand them down to bare metal.... subaru liked to paint before they ran grounds so alot of voltage drop is because of this.... i noticed almost a full volt better charging when i did that. i believe theres 2 on each strut tower, 2 on each frame rail close to the radiator fans, 1 close to the battery, 1 on the wishbone (stabalizes the engine and tranny from hitting the firewall) and 1 of course close to the starter.thats all i can think of now.... any questions feel free to pm me or ask on here.

i think there real i was looking through that guys stuff he sells and it looks like he finds stuff at auctions and just sells it

Yea, it looks like someone got the mids about a month ago....shit. If I had a whole Hertz front stage my ears would jizz all over my cheeks.

/ LOL

My Low Budget Build:

Green 1995 Subaru Legacy wagon 147k- $1K

headunit- pioneer premier deh-p650-$25

4 Lead acid batts. 1 up front and 3 in back- vented outside.- $50

4 vvme L11 10"s <- $30 shipped a piece

6 cu. ft box (after displacment) tuned to 32ish hz with 10 inch sonotube. -about $50 all together maybe a lil more

2 aspm 1300 strapped

Selenium 6"s in the front doors on headunit power- for now -$20

quantum tweets in door-for now -$10

boston acoustic 5 1/4 in rear doors- for now-Free

big 3

1/0 and 4awg throughout.

roof sound deadened (not peel n seal ftw)-free

on 80 amp alt (bench tested to put out 100 amps faithfully) <--?-$10 for test

about $430 for everything<----Not bad at all

still gotta add 3 way crossover, amp for front and rear door speakers and maybe eq

Posted

I love my second skin. I only have the 20sq ft I think. But it's solid. I want to add more, but I don't have any metal vibrations anymore. I just cut out square sections of the second skin and put it where I wanted. It was more than enough for my novice setup

1992 Camry "Stormtrooper"Quantum Audio DVD/USB/AUX 3.5" single din H/UXS D690Cadence 0g wiring and Kicker 4g wiring(2) Selenium 6w4p's(2) Selenium ST200'sKicker 200.4 (mids & highs)(1)Kicker and (2)Stinger RCA'sSecondSkin in trunk and doors12K HIDsMulitcolor Angel EyesSoon to be done:Big 3Mechman H/O Altsubs?amp?

That thing is going to eat people nearby cars, unsecured objects, and small children

Fixed!

wow nice. i wanted nos on my car but the gf said no. i was just gunna do a 50 shot tho haha

Get a new girlfriend.
Posted

Okay with that said then you will need a bigger batt upfront and more than likely one in the back I would upgrade the alt and do the big 3 using 0 gauge use a quality deadener to stop rattle and you should be good

2013 Dodge Charger

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1996 Ford Explorer XLT 5.0
Build Log

2005 Honda Civic LX Coupe

Build Log

SMD SUPER SELLER!!!!
My Selling Feedback

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