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Bracing Help Box Guide idea


SlamminBeats

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what does that wood piece in all the corners do?

an im not an average joe when i comes to the cost. im willing to spend the money to get it done right.

its only in the high pressure corners near the port... helps the air move supposedly. some guys gain on the meter some don't.

if you dont care about money go for all thread, thicker the better

all thread isn't feasible in every build either. you cant run all thread top to bottom or side to side in a wall build without removing windows or building the box outside of the car. also u have to leave room for bolts on the outside which some hate because it ruins the aesthetics

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sorry OP, never saw first post somehow

1 5/8s to 2" coarse drywall screws are the typical type to use

i use a 7/64 2" long bit to predrill so the wood doesnt split

birch if you can find 9ply or higher would be best as its lighter and stronger compared to the same thickness mdf.

titebond II works great

what sub?

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all thread is an expensive brace when u have extra wood laying around

ill use round/square dowels any day over all thread, mostly because you can easily screw/glue wood together to make one solid interior brace. with all thread you have more small bracing that doesn't intersect and needs to be welded to properly secure it

wooden dowels only stop flex one way and its the wrong way.. wood even the dowels still flex all thread will not flex and takes up lil to no air space i would not even consider useing wooden dowls for bracing i use to way back when before i knew how to get loud

im talking about using dowel like this...

frontpanels.png

most guys cant get metal rods cut, but can easily get wood cut. so for the average joe who isnt doing 155db its more than fine. this site consists of far more average joes than guys like you alpine who compete... so cost comes into the equation and all thread aint cheap

ok i see your point there... yes wooden dowels will be better than nothing at all

for 45's in the corners 98% of the time it hurt my numbers the only 45's that worked are near the port but you would not be able to tell any of this by the ear only the meter can tell

Have you ever had your woofers blown?

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sorry OP, never saw first post somehow

1 5/8s to 2" coarse drywall screws are the typical type to use

i use a 7/64 2" long bit to predrill so the wood doesnt split

birch if you can find 9ply or higher would be best as its lighter and stronger compared to the same thickness mdf.

titebond II works great

what sub?

the best screws i have found are a bit pricey but worth it to me.. they are Deck screws they wont break even with my wall holding the 18's doing 160's and if you get the right ones they even counter sink themselfs

Have you ever had your woofers blown?

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sorry OP, never saw first post somehow

1 5/8s to 2" coarse drywall screws are the typical type to use

i use a 7/64 2" long bit to predrill so the wood doesnt split

birch if you can find 9ply or higher would be best as its lighter and stronger compared to the same thickness mdf.

se

titebond II works great

what sub?

no problem man, 2 RE SXX 15's

that box sketch-up you posted is literally the exact design im was going to use, subs up port mid.

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no problem man, 2 RE SXX 15's

that box sketch-up you posted is literally the exact design im was going to use, subs up port mid.

that box design is proven to work very well for most suv's. double baffle definitely

loved my 12" sx's (old ones)

sorry OP, never saw first post somehow

1 5/8s to 2" coarse drywall screws are the typical type to use

i use a 7/64 2" long bit to predrill so the wood doesnt split

birch if you can find 9ply or higher would be best as its lighter and stronger compared to the same thickness mdf.

titebond II works great

what sub?

the best screws i have found are a bit pricey but worth it to me.. they are Deck screws they wont break even with my wall holding the 18's doing 160's and if you get the right ones they even counter sink themselfs

got a link to them bro?

i hear good things about spax screws from some local guys... is that what u mean?

do u think u dropped score by adding 45s because the volume shrunk? or because of the way the 45s impeded air flow?

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http://monsterfastener.com/ideckdrywall.aspx?gclid=COTjpvO-hK0CFRBphwodcV6cUg

the stainless is the ones i use and on the bottom of the head have lil channels to cut the wood and counter sink them selfs

for the 45's did not matter on the size tiny to larg they all hurt me my loudest boxes have allways been basic square inside besides by the port

so i would say it messes with the air flow A.I Ray who is also a great box builder as found the same results we have had a few convos about it

Have you ever had your woofers blown?

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