Batteries, Alts & The Big 3

[IBleedMusick]

Fellas,

I have begun planning my next build on my civic and I would like to get everything electrically done and I also need to calculate how much I will need to shell out to get everything done.

The system is simple 2000w rms on the sub stage and 1000w rms on the front and rear stage. 4 8" Subs, 6 6.5" mid bass woofers and 4 super tweets. I will not call out any brands because I have not decided what companies I will be going with. There will be three amps used in this build and I need to get the electricals right before I start installing anything. I will be using Stinger wiring throughout the car and either XS or Stinger batts both are comparable to each other so which ever one I can find the better price on will be what I run with.

What I need to know is how big of an Alt will I need to replace my stock alt with?

What size batt should I be running in the front to replace my stock batt?

How many batts in the back should I be running and what sizes?

If there is any other information you all need please let me know.

BTW, the vehicle is a 2005 Honda Civic LX Coupe.

[RickyFriery97]

Get the biggest alt you can get, but look for something with decent idle output.

Singer, mechman, and dc power are three very good alternator choices

As for the battery under the hood, measure the stock one and fit the biggest under the hood you can.

The biggest xs power (that's what I run, why I'm using it as a example) batt you can fit under the hood and a d3400 or d3100 should be more then enough. And of corse the big three in 1/0

Hope this helps

[carshateme]

This will save you some money if you are on a budget. Get 1/0 ultra flex welding wiring...just as good as power wire..better than some. Id go w dc alternators...dont go cheap on them...you get what you pay for. Yellow top optium batteries are known to do good w audio....as your car battery.....the number of amps determines the number of interior batteries...but if you want to save time and space...just get one battery capable of matching your amp demands.

[IBleedMusick]

Get the biggest alt you can get, but look for something with decent idle output. Singer, mechman, and dc power are three very good alternator choices As for the battery under the hood, measure the stock one and fit the biggest under the hood you can. The biggest xs power (that's what I run, why I'm using it as a example) batt you can fit under the hood and a d3400 or d3100 should be more then enough. And of corse the big three in 1/0 Hope this helps

Yeah I took down my measurements for batteries and I was looking at the XS D925 under the hood and how would I hunt down a quote from DC & Singer I know that the an alt for my car from Mechman is like $550 and I think 220 amps and 135 idle if I'm not mistaken need to check the site again and I figured I would need to throw 2 of the 31's or 34's in the back just wanted to be sure. My only question about under the hood is don't I want a battery under the hood that the alternator can easily charge. I won't be replacing the alt until middle of next year so I wanted to atleast ensure my batteries could run the system fine without straining the hell out of my current stock alt. I would charge them myself so the alt has to work less but I need something that can run my car and my system and hold down my current alt til I get the bread for a new alt.

This will save you some money if you are on a budget. Get 1/0 ultra flex welding wiring...just as good as power wire..better than some. Id go w dc alternators...dont go cheap on them...you get what you pay for. Yellow top optium batteries are known to do good w audio....as your car battery.....the number of amps determines the number of interior batteries...but if you want to save time and space...just get one battery capable of matching your amp demands.

As far as cabling goes I only run Stinger or XS products I don't skimp on anything regarding the electricals in my car I rather pay a little more for peace of mine that the wire I'm running is what it says it is plus the price difference between welding wire and Stinger wire is not so bad that I would change. As far as batteries go IMHO Optima batteries are pure shit (if you like them more power to you) I'm not knocking them but in my experiences Kinetik and Optima suck. I will only run Stinger or XS strictly because I know they get the job done and again the price difference is not so ridiculous that I need to save a few extra bucks. Plus I like knowing both of those batts have been tested to run upside down. Not saying I would but it's always good to know. I agree on the alts just need to figure out where and how to get a quote from DC or Singer.

[IBleedMusick]

Okay so this is how I see it and please correct me if I am wrong or I need something bigger for a 2000w sub stage and 3000w front/rear stage plus led lights and the usual stuff I need to run my car normally with no dimming can I do the Big 3 and purchase a xs power d925 for the front and d5100 as my seconday and safely run my system using my stock alt for about 6 months? If not what should I be doing it will be a total of 3 amps running