kyangs Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 I moved to a Big Four Upgrade: 1/0 Batt (Postive) to Alternator 1/0 Batt (Negitive) to Driver Side Strut 1/0 Batt (Negitive) to A/C Compressor <--- Not doing anything for your audio, move it to a mounting bolt on the alt. Alt case to strut tower would be ideal. -Since the A/C compressor shares the same mount as the alternator is it still alright to mount it to the A/C compressor? 1/0 Engine to Passenger Side Strut Kept the Stock Wiring in place 12 Gauge Wire Batt (Negitive) to Tranny 12 Gauge Wire Batt (Negitive) to Fender 12 Gauge Wire Batt (Postive) to Alternator Also, keep all of your grounds on the same side of the vehicle, so drivers side or passengers side. <--------I will do it first thing when I get home from work. The red arrow is where you have the wire ran to now correct? It doesn't look like the alt mounts there. If it were me, I would put it where the green arrow is, between the bolt head and the alternator. Ahh. Got it. I will post of a video of the voltage readings before and after the mount and as well as voltage readings when changing the ground from passenger side strut to driver side strut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 I moved to a Big Four Upgrade: 1/0 Batt (Postive) to Alternator 1/0 Batt (Negitive) to Driver Side Strut 1/0 Batt (Negitive) to A/C Compressor <--- Not doing anything for your audio, move it to a mounting bolt on the alt. Alt case to strut tower would be ideal. -Since the A/C compressor shares the same mount as the alternator is it still alright to mount it to the A/C compressor? 1/0 Engine to Passenger Side Strut Kept the Stock Wiring in place 12 Gauge Wire Batt (Negitive) to Tranny 12 Gauge Wire Batt (Negitive) to Fender 12 Gauge Wire Batt (Postive) to Alternator Also, keep all of your grounds on the same side of the vehicle, so drivers side or passengers side. <--------I will do it first thing when I get home from work. The red arrow is where you have the wire ran to now correct? It doesn't look like the alt mounts there. If it were me, I would put it where the green arrow is, between the bolt head and the alternator. Ahh. Got it. I will post of a video of the voltage readings before and after the mount and as well as voltage readings when changing the ground from passenger side strut to driver side strut. That's exactly what you should do. Test it. You should also test it under load. You might not even see a voltage difference but you are definitely making it easier for electrons to flow. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregory Brissitt Posted March 25, 2015 Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 hey guys can someone look at this picture and let me know if i am on the right path,,,, doing the big 3 or 4 e its a toyota rav4 ,what i did was from the..... alt.+ to battery +, engine - to battery -, alt - (bolt that holds alt to engine) to battery- chassis - to battery- is that correct. plus i put a fuse on the positive from the alt to the battery 250amps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lbox88 Posted March 25, 2015 Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 Sounds/looks correct to me. UBL | Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregory Brissitt Posted March 25, 2015 Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 just wanted to make sure one guy said to me that i should not have put a fuse on the wire coming from the alt to the battery + so i just wanted to know whats the right way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lbox88 Posted March 25, 2015 Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 Either is fine, it's an extra layer of safety but not everyone uses one. I don't currently but when I do some re-wiring in the next couple months I will be adding one. UBL | Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregory Brissitt Posted March 25, 2015 Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 ok thanks for the info i feel better knowing i am on the right path ,,, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m0rtin Posted March 26, 2015 Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 too many comments to go through regarding my noob question. im aware of the 1st wire going from battery positive to alt positive. do i have to have an inline fuse? i seen ppl install without one. my main concern is about the grounds. so i run one wire from the battery negative to any good grounding spot? n the 2nd ground from chassis or engine block to the same grounding spot?? so in other words, battery neg to ground spot and chassis/engine block to that same ground spot??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lbox88 Posted March 26, 2015 Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 A. Inline alt fuse is a highly discussed item, some do some don't, I currently don't. B. You want a frame ground to go to battery negative. The strut tower works well usually. Then an engine ground to negative. Since the alt usually bolts either to a bracket that's bolted to the block or the alt bolts directly onto the block, most people use an alt mounting bolt for their engine block ground. UBL | Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted March 27, 2015 Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 The reason behind the big 3 is to make as efficient of a return path to the alt as possible. The idea isn't to ground the engine block, it's to give the alt case a direct run to the source of best ground which is almost always the frame or strut tower. No need to ground the engine just for the sake of grounding the engine. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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