ALL4SPL's 2009 Honda Fit Sport

[all4spl]

Here is the log for my install in my 2009 Honda fit, goes through all the install except detailed pics of the headunit install. Some of this was written as a guide for other fit owners so it may seem weird, just wanted to detail the doors and such so that other fit owners would know what to expect.

Here is a picture of the headunit and DMM I put in the dash.

Here are a couple pictures of the power wire.

This is directly above the gas pedal area.

And here is a picture of it in the engine bay.

Here is a picture of under the dash as it comes down.

Then ran it down the driver side of the car towards the hatch area.

Heres a couple more shots of the power wire.

This was only what I had on hand for power wire, I am working on getting some 0AWG after completing my BIG 3 which is happening this week, as I am picking up my Shuriken BT35 battery today.

I then ran my RCA's, speaker leads and remote lead down the center of the car.

I also laid down a layer of Dynamat Extreme Liner, this stuff is heavy as it has a layer of lead in it.

Here is the breaker just after putting it in and sealing the screw that it mounts with.

Next the same area with the cable.

Here it is all tightened up.

An upper view of the breaker.

And finally, the sub amp mounted and the mids and highs amp is on the other seat back in the picture below the sub amp picture. I retained use of my cars child seat features by mounting the amp high enough to clear the bracket.

Door Removal, First is this panel it simply prys off, just be careful it is very flexible so it shouldn't tear or break on you.

Next here is the door panel with that piece removed exposing the wires for locks/windows and the holding screw.

Now other than the snap in pins around the door panel this is the only screw holding it to the door itself.

Next we have the wiring harness for the locks/windows, its a standard push tab clip type of harness.

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After that you only have the door pull itself which is held in by one screw.

After you remove this screw you pass the entire door pull through the door panel you can leave it hanging while doing the speaker install.

You can then pop the panel off the door and you will expose the factory speaker.

It takes one philips screw to remove to get it out, you then lift up as the speakers body plastic holds it in with groves.

After that you unsnap the speaker wire clip, and remove the speaker exposing the hole in the door.

Most speakers will need the metal bent inward slightly to allow them to pass if they have a big magnet structure like mine do shown here.

Above you can also see the mounting ring this is to make sure the speaker doesn't hit the glass of the window when rolled down. To remove the stock tweeter, you only need either a small flat head screw driver or a 90degree angle pick tool, once popped out it looks like this.

Then I mounted my JBL tweeter to the stock mount with some 5min epoxy , this will hold just fine as the tweeter is very light and doesn't need a ton of support.

Overall again the doors where very easy to install, the tweeters where a snap and the only hard part was running the wire through the door into the cabin for the midbass. This was done with a metal coat hanger and a lot of pushing, careful I put a small bend at the end of the coat hanger so it cannot cut open any of the other wiring.

We start off with what the coat hanger looks like before running the wire, again put a bend at the tip so as to not have the coat hanger catch and cut other wires in the bundle. Also you want to tape down about 3-4 inches cause the wire will probably slide a little but it should hold.

Now lets look at the rubber tube the wires run through in the door after being removed at each end.

And finally lets take a look at the wire just after ran through the tube, I found that it was much easier due to the shape of this tube to run the wire from the top down.

The wire then goes into the cabin, lets see how that looks from the passenger side.

After getting all that done, I got to building my enclosure, I originally started off with a single SA 12, then added a second. The box is 4cuft after displacement of the subs and ports, the ports are 4” aeros 12” long.

And here is the box in the hatch.

[all4spl]

Here are a few vids of the car.

Thanks here is the photos of the box being built.

Upgraded the big3 wiring to 0awg. Had just enough with a small piece left over too, so the 25ft roll did power to the back, new ground in back and all you see here. Will have to get more if I want to add the battery in back but it won't require another whole roll thankfully.

Legal SPL reading on Termlab.

Videos;

[all4spl]

Damplifier time! Overall I am very impressed with damplifier it was very easy to use, easy to smooth onto the contours of the metal and very easy to trim to size. I went with around 25% coverage which is what Jon from Secondskin advised of course if it is not enough I can always add more!

Anyway on to the pics! These are in order from start to finish, only took pictures of one door as they are the same thing.



















The doors already sound different a much deeper deader door when they are closed, cannot wait till I can get the front doors and rear hatch done!

Did a small video on the sound difference of the doors with and without damplifier.

[all4spl]

Front driver door passenger side is the same of course.

And here is the rear hatch area damplifier.

That is all that was done, car is only needing the roof done in Alpha Damp which is on it's way to me now, and should be in within a week or so after I get it.

[all4spl]

The alpha damp arrived, car has to go back to the body shop for some minor fixes then the installation of this on my roof will begin! I will be posting a review with photo's, video and more!

[all4spl]

Got into a wreck so the alpha damp is put off till I get my car out of the shop, however I did spec a new box so I decided to build that while the car was in the shop.

Right here is where I noticed I was human, an error in math led me to redo the port which you will see after the next few photos.

[all4spl]

Right here is where I redid the port entirely.

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[all4spl]

Final pics as I got the wiring all setup.

Sub #1 all setup.

Sub #2 just after completing the wiring before mounting the wires to the terminal bolts and subs to the box.

The terminal bolts.

And they are ready, just waiting for my car to be back, which should be this coming monday, cannot wait!