Sergeant_Skyrim Posted February 20, 2012 Report Share Posted February 20, 2012 Alright, so my problem is still semi-persisting where my subs don't completely cut out, but sometimes they'll start sounding really muddy (best I can describe it...). I went to Best Buy yesterday, got a brand new Kicker 250.1 amp (30 day cash back return policy ftw), hooked it up, and the problem still sounded like it was there. Sometimes it'll take 5 seconds of playing for it to happen, and other times like yesterday when I had to drive an hour and a half back to campus it was working for probably 90% of that time. It's to the point where I'm just like f*** it and I'm gonna keep playing full tilt until something completely breaks so I know what it is. I'm now looking into replacing all of my existing wiring, and I don't know much about the different types, etc. So I'm wondering what type of wire would be the best in each connection. Like from amp->ground, what type of wire should I get for that, from amp->subs what type of wire for that connection would be best, and so on. For now I'd just like to know what the best gauge (I think it's called) wire is for each individual connection, and maybe some estimates on total pricing to replace every wire. I know this might be hard, but if you can sort of overcost it so that you're giving me a price that's slightly higher than what I'd actually end up paying that'd be appreciated. If there's any part of this that I'm not making clear, sorry. I'll try clearing whatever it is up if this happens though, and thanks to anybody who can help me out Quote Build in progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew018018 Posted February 20, 2012 Report Share Posted February 20, 2012 double check all your power wires and grounds to make sure they aren't loose, and ring terminals are on tight, make sure you scrape the paint on the chassis for a ground.... you shouldnt need any major power wire so i doubt you're problem is the thickness of the wire as long as it is at least 8 AWG Quote My System (in VW golf/Rabbit mk2) (1) Hifonics Brutus 2010D @ 1ohm (1) Hifonics Zeus 440 Mids'nhighs (3) JBL W10Gti subs (2) JBL GTO838 (2) JBL GTO936 (1) run of 3/0 Gauge ofc (1) Ac Delco120ah 850cca battery (front) (1) Ac Delco 45ah 330cca battery (rear) (1)Sony Gt630ui hu 34hz tuning Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sergeant_Skyrim Posted February 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2012 I'm now looking into replacing all of my existing wiring, and I don't know much about the different types, etc. So I'm wondering what type of wire would be the best in each connection. Like from amp->ground, what type of wire should I get for that, from amp->subs what type of wire for that connection would be best, and so on. For now I'd just like to know what the best gauge (I think it's called) wire is for each individual connection, and maybe some estimates on total pricing to replace every wire. I know this might be hard, but if you can sort of overcost it so that you're giving me a price that's slightly higher than what I'd actually end up paying that'd be appreciated. If there's any part of this that I'm not making clear, sorry. I'll try clearing whatever it is up if this happens though, and thanks to anybody who can help me out Any help please? Quote Build in progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EclipseChris Posted February 20, 2012 Report Share Posted February 20, 2012 When looking for power and ground wire, you must look at the amp you are using. The rule i go by is " buy and install the largest possible". If the amp can only fir 8 gauge, use 8 gauge, if 4 gauge then 4 gauge, but never any less. For speaker wire i personally keep it larger than 14 gauge (meaning a smaller number 12, 10, 8, etc.) for any speaker, excluding subwoofers. When picking wire for subwoofers i never go smaller (higher number gauge) than 10 gauge. A good place to look is Knukonceptz, i love the place. They sell the highest quality product i have used, with few exceptions. When it comes to wire, there are a few options of quality/make up. Some wire is CCA (copper clad aluminum) where the base wire is aluminum, and it is covered in copper. There is pure copper, which is exactly what it sounds like. And finally there are other various make ups, but CCA and Pure Copper are the most common. CCA is cheaper, pure copper is more expensive, and heavier. When choosing wire, find a budget, and consider power ratings, and never cut corners. We don't want to hear of anything catching fire of God forbid, anyone getting hurt. Quote i resolve to be a nicer moderator. Tercel build R.I.P. Eclipse build Old New V-Dub My feedback. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheNewbie Posted February 20, 2012 Report Share Posted February 20, 2012 What gauge wire does your amplifier hold? If you still have the box it would tell you on there. Quote Check out my build log: http://www.stevemead...60#entry1958353 Different folks have different strokes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebel4055 Posted February 20, 2012 Report Share Posted February 20, 2012 That 250 is 8 gauge. Buddy had one. There is probably a different reason for you having issues. How are your grounds and how did you gain the amp? Bass boost on or off? Did you just ground the amp to the closest spot you could without scrapping the paint off? Quote Rest In Peace mother. January 22, 1955 - February 14, 2013 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/user/35351-megrch/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheNewbie Posted February 20, 2012 Report Share Posted February 20, 2012 Although I don't believe it's the wire it's self. Here is some wiring you can use. This is 4 Gauge, if you need smaller.. (8gauge) just put your mouse on mobile audio and go to amp installation kits,and pick your choice .http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KOL-AK4-4 Even if you do have a slightly larger gauge than what your amplifier can hold, you can just cut some of the wire to make it fit.. You wanna make sure that there isn't stray wires hanging out of the amplifiers outputs. But this kit comes with everything you need except a remote wire. I personally have this exact kit. And im loving it. Quote Check out my build log: http://www.stevemead...60#entry1958353 Different folks have different strokes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebel4055 Posted February 20, 2012 Report Share Posted February 20, 2012 You can't cram 4 gauge into the 250. It has small spade terminals. Quote Rest In Peace mother. January 22, 1955 - February 14, 2013 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/user/35351-megrch/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheNewbie Posted February 20, 2012 Report Share Posted February 20, 2012 That 250 is 8 gauge. Buddy had one. There is probably a different reason for you having issues. How are your grounds and how did you gain the amp? Bass boost on or off? Did you just ground the amp to the closest spot you could without scrapping the paint off? I would agree with this, but im not exactly sure why that would make it "Muddy" trying to get a feel for what he means by that. Cutting out, lower frequency, what? Quote Check out my build log: http://www.stevemead...60#entry1958353 Different folks have different strokes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sergeant_Skyrim Posted February 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2012 When looking for power and ground wire, you must look at the amp you are using. The rule i go by is " buy and install the largest possible". If the amp can only fir 8 gauge, use 8 gauge, if 4 gauge then 4 gauge, but never any less. For speaker wire i personally keep it larger than 14 gauge (meaning a smaller number 12, 10, 8, etc.) for any speaker, excluding subwoofers. When picking wire for subwoofers i never go smaller (higher number gauge) than 10 gauge. A good place to look is Knukonceptz, i love the place. They sell the highest quality product i have used, with few exceptions. When it comes to wire, there are a few options of quality/make up. Some wire is CCA (copper clad aluminum) where the base wire is aluminum, and it is covered in copper. There is pure copper, which is exactly what it sounds like. And finally there are other various make ups, but CCA and Pure Copper are the most common. CCA is cheaper, pure copper is more expensive, and heavier. When choosing wire, find a budget, and consider power ratings, and never cut corners. We don't want to hear of anything catching fire of God forbid, anyone getting hurt. Dude, thank you so much for the clear explanation! What gauge wire does your amplifier hold? If you still have the box it would tell you on there. Amp is MTX RTP251D that I've had since '06, just took it all apart this past weekend and still clean as the day it was made. That 250 is 8 gauge. Buddy had one. There is probably a different reason for you having issues. How are your grounds and how did you gain the amp? Bass boost on or off? Did you just ground the amp to the closest spot you could without scrapping the paint off? I haven't changed amp settings since I've had it in '06. Dad set the gain and grounded it, and I've never once had a problem with any of this for the past 6ish years. Only reason the original MTX subs that came as part of the enclosure blew is because I was a dumbass noob and thought I could go 62/62 on the volume lol. Bass boost off. That 250 is 8 gauge. Buddy had one. There is probably a different reason for you having issues. How are your grounds and how did you gain the amp? Bass boost on or off? Did you just ground the amp to the closest spot you could without scrapping the paint off? I would agree with this, but im not exactly sure why that would make it "Muddy" trying to get a feel for what he means by that. Cutting out, lower frequency, what? I have trouble explaining it mainly because now it's playing fine, hasn't messed up since Sunday morning when I drove back out here to campus. And even then I kept it at my normal playing volume of 47/62 (75% of the max headunit volume) cuz it's to the point where I figure I'll listen at my normal volume til something breaks. I think it tends to happen easier at lower frequencies (box is tuned to 32Hz btw) but I can't be sure because whenever I try to reproduce the problem it never friggin' happens which really pisses me off the most. Quote Build in progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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