irpirate Posted February 24, 2012 Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 basing your decision on just xmax and sensitivity doesn't really work... from what i've seen the sensitivity rating is more or less useless. also different ways to rate xmax. seems like a lot of companies list it at 70% bl, but not all of them. i'd go with power handling if you're just looking at those 3 specs. i could be wrong but as long as you can control excursion so bl doesn't drop off you don't have to worry about xmax too much... Quote hiiiiiiii2002 4runner - buncha speakers n amps n shit (gone)1994 astro - more stuffzupdate: pretty sure all the pic links in the logs are broken lol. ma slop garb build log16 12's 4th order4runner rebuild in progressclickkk meeeee!!!! 4 18's 6th orderUBL - clickyhttp://www.youtube.com/yyj11589 lots of hater kids here. Pay no attention, they just want 89,000 watt subs for 3.50If you would have put a dc dustcap on it and called it lv your mom, they would all be in love Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted February 24, 2012 Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 also different ways to rate xmax. seems like a lot of companies list it at 70% bl, but not all of them. Kinda sorta correct. Most legit companies ratings are for linear travel, meaning the max travel of its forward stroke without having the coil leave the gap or rub, keeping the entire assembly moving equally. Sure the woofer maybe able to move farther, but its not linear which would cause the coil to jump out of the gap, or rub or something to that nature, which could cause damage to the driver if done enough. So it is basicly usless travel since it is no longer under control at that point. Also seen some companies rate the xmax as both ways (forward and backwards / in and out), but most companies just rate it 1 way such as Fi and AA for example. Pretty sure I said that correct. LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kdub26 Posted February 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2012 well, i appreciate the help, or, basically a smack on the back of the head saying im dumb. like i said, im a noob. i have no problem admitting that. and those numbers mean basically nothing to me. i DO know that getting two subs, and adding those SPL numbers, that i WONT get that db rating. i do know that much. but i guess basically my way of thinking to buy the sub was completely irrational, which, is why i posted this, and made a fool of myself LOL. but, i guess ill do the old fashioned coin toss and just randomly pick one of the subs that i feel as though will work within my budget. i still have a ton to learn, and this is why i ask Quote 1992 Camry "Stormtrooper"Quantum Audio DVD/USB/AUX 3.5" single din H/UXS D690Cadence 0g wiring and Kicker 4g wiring(2) Selenium 6w4p's(2) Selenium ST200'sKicker 200.4 (mids & highs)(1)Kicker and (2)Stinger RCA'sSecondSkin in trunk and doors12K HIDsMulitcolor Angel EyesSoon to be done:Big 3Mechman H/O Altsubs?amp? That thing is going to eat people nearby cars, unsecured objects, and small childrenFixed!wow nice. i wanted nos on my car but the gf said no. i was just gunna do a 50 shot tho hahaGet a new girlfriend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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