TheNewbie Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 so a big amp sucking power from a stock system strains the alt more than an alt charging multiple batteries feeding the big amp. correct? They are the same thing.. both straining your alt, weather it's from one battery, or 50. The extra batteries just allow you to be able to "bump" your music for a little bit longer than you would on stock. It depends on what you run as Kranny said, you can run 1000 on stock with your alt, just do the big three. But anything above it I'd watch your voltage to see what you should upgrade.. Quote Check out my build log: http://www.stevemead...60#entry1958353 Different folks have different strokes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheNewbie Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 so essentially. the cheapest way no matter what to check all gains and clipping is a DD1. . .and the best upgrades would be the big 3 (being the cheapest) then a new battery, then a H.O. alt. Sub size does not effect the sound but more the volume, and its the box type and specs ans such that define whether its tight bassy and whatnot. an with simple upgrades like big 3 and battery, any car should be able to handle quite a bit of power... so essentially. the cheapest way no matter what to check all gains and clipping is a DD1. . .and the best upgrades would be the big 3 (being the cheapest) then a new battery, then a H.O. alt. Sub size does not effect the sound but more the volume, and its the box type and specs ans such that define whether its tight bassy and whatnot. an with simple upgrades like big 3 and battery, any car should be able to handle quite a bit of power... The big three is going to be your best bang for you buck, the sub size effects the Cone area, so it will push more air, yes the box does effect the sound. And if you wanna get technical most on here would say to check your gains with a clamp, not a DVM or DDM. DD1 for clipping yes, or Orilloscope but that's alot more expensive. Quote Check out my build log: http://www.stevemead...60#entry1958353 Different folks have different strokes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 so essentially. the cheapest way no matter what to check all gains and clipping is a DD1. . .and the best upgrades would be the big 3 (being the cheapest) then a new battery, then a H.O. alt. Sub size does not effect the sound but more the volume, and its the box type and specs ans such that define whether its tight bassy and whatnot. an with simple upgrades like big 3 and battery, any car should be able to handle quite a bit of power... this is only in your situation right now. checking for clipping, yeah dd1. very first electrical upgrade anyone should do is the big 3 (not because its the cheapest). new battery would be second, but you shouldn't need that. the only batt upgrade i could see you needing is just replacing the wet cell under the hood with an agm type like an xs power batt or something like that. sub size doesnt matter from size to size. unless you're competing in SQ competitions, you dont need to worry about that. the box is the thing that will either make your sub perform like shit, or really well. prefab boxes, like the ones you buy at best buy and online and shit, are really, really terrible. they are tuned super high so the high school kids can play a milli and other stupidly high bass songs well. try to play something in the 30hz range and you'll unload your woofer like crazy, possibly damaging it. a proper box design from a member on here is key. i'd look into 412cvx, ram designs, or ray for a design. these guys have varying levels of experience and either one of them can help you accomplish what you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.