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  1. This being my first post on the forums I will give a bit of background first before delving into my questions. I caught the bass bug when I was young, let's call it 1998 or there about. My buddy's neighbor was into lowriders and car shows and had a 2 door escort with a pair of rockford fosgate something in it that would make you sound as if you were using an Electrolarynx when speaking. 3 years later when I got my driver's license and my first vehicle I also got my first system. Since that time I have dabbled in car audio on and off. Between myself and friends who also dabble we have probably installed and uninstalled, at least a hundred different meh speaker systems. At times one or two of us had a system, sometimes 6 or 7 of us. We have upon occasion stripped multiple vehicles laid out all of the gear and mixed and matched gear and vehicles just to see what combination sounded the best. Clearly I am no stranger to DIY, but during all of these years I lacked so much knowledge. I did not know the names Thiele or Small or that programs such as WinISD even existed. I spent years in the dark playing with bottom of the barrel entry level gear. I mean I had some mid level gear here and there, JL Audio, midgrade Rockford Fosgate, but most of the people I was around thought you can't go wrong with Kicker, and RF P1s were the cream of the crop. A few years ago I was working in the oilfield with tons of time on my hands sitting around the motel in the evening, internet, and a desire to build a home theater system. Being 450 miles from home meant purchasing and building it weren't viable options so I was left with research. I am amazed now that anything I have ever built sounded worth a damn without knowing what I do now and would like to give a thanks to everyone here who has ever offered advice to one person and as a result help educate many like myself. I did pick up a few good deals here and there while on the road just to have some sort of bass in my truck and traded or sold for a profit and reinvested in other audio gear to the point where I am now sitting at $0 out of pocket. My current setup is a cheap Kenwood Excelon KMM-X503 that allows me to play music via bluetooth from my phone with some cheap RF 6.5 coaxials I bought to replace the crumbled factory speakers running on head unit power. I do have an NVX JAD800.4 I plan to use to supply power to the doors in the future when I decide what I want to upgrade them with. For my subwoofer I am running a Dayton Audio Ultimax UM18-22 powered by a NVX VAD17001. I was a believer in the myth about smaller subs having faster punchier bass for the longest time and after learning different I went from running 8s or 10s to an 18. It's not a bad subwoofer really and I have several people who would gladly take it off my hands when I do upgrade, and I will probably even break even selling it with the enclosure I built for it. My current enclosure is just a 3ft^3 sealed enclosure which has an f3 of 30hz. It sounds pretty good, is moderately loud but overall I find myself underwhelmed. I want to port it just to see what it will do while I plan out my next upgrades and have designed an 8ft^3 enclosure tuned to 22hz that I think will sound pretty good with an f3 at 20hz instead of 30 and 4-7 db increase in spl over the entire range of the sub. My next upgrade will be either a mechman or singer 250a-270a alternator and I already have 1/0awg ofc for the big 3 as well as the power and ground to the amplifier. I have another question about alternators but I will come back to it after supplying and requesting more information on subwoofers and amplifiers. After that I am looking to upgrade my subwoofer to an 18" sq type sub. To clarify what I mean by sq, I am not looking for something that will blend in seamlessly with the soundstage. I am a bass head but I want a subwoofer that is detailed and doesn't blend double bass drums into an approximation of what they should be. Until this 18, I never realized how much I like low low bass, but I still want it to be clean. Spl is less important if it isn't crisp and clean, I would rather add a second sub to get the level of spl I want than sacrifice quality for it. This is some of the guidance I am asking for, I was looking at RE XXX but I am not even sure if they still make them. I am also looking at Fi Q series Neo 18s and trying to find other similarly recommended brands to research. I was a bit surprised by the subwoofers FS being 28hz and seeing other drivers in the same ballpark when my current sub has an FS of 19.5. I haven't yet had a chance to model the Fi in winisd but I plan to at some point today to see what I can get out of the low end. Do any of the current better quality subs dig as low as I am aiming for or am I going to readjust my expectations? When I upgrade subwoofers I am going to need an upgraded amplifier as well especially if I decide to add a second sub. What are the good brands out there? I see tons of amps flooding the market and amp dyno videos abound but what are the quality brands? I was looking at Crescendo Bass Clefs and was looking at Orion until I read a post dated sometime around March that leads me to believe Orion is not what it was. That is one of the downsides to passive research, information becomes outdated and eventually you have to stop asking google and ask people in the know. I am curious about how much amperage I truly need out of an alternator, and at what point would I have to run dual alternators. I have read somewhere that some people prefer running 270a alternators because of a better idle output than 300a+, if this is outdated information I may just get a higher output alternator to start with. I understand the math, hypothetically if I were to run dual Fi q neo 18s at 1750w each on a Crescendo BC4k with an efficiency of 70% (for a safe margin) that's 4500w at 14.4v you're talking 312a. But I don't play test tones, I don't compete in any sort of car audio competitions that would require that sort of full bore output. This whole setup will be a daily driver just for my own personal enjoyment, is there a somewhat accepted percentage of absolute power to actual music power demand that might necessitate the need for a second battery vs a higher output alternator? And are multiple extra batteries truly necessary for a daily driver when I don't sit around listening to music with my engine off? I apologize for the long read but have done as much research into the subject as I could to be able to ask the right questions (or so I think). I appreciate any guidance that you choose to offer me.
  2. I have a 98 civic Hx,I want to add an xs680 series battery and upgrade my stock 75amp alternator to a 200-280amp mechman alternator. My battery from factory is not wired directly to the alternator instead it goes through the fuse box first and and ELD controls the voltage output from the alternator and through an 80amp fuse. My question is can i wire a 2nd battery in the trunk directly to the (+) terminal on the alternator without damaging the battery and keep the original lead to the fuse box as well just like stock. I don't want to bypass the ELD and pass more current through that fuse box to not burn anything up. My lights dim like crazy on 60hz notes even with a 6farad cap. I currently run(2) PPI.p12D4 drivers hooked @1ohm on an American Bass ph.4000D.1, and (2) kicker 6.5” k5 series (2)pioneer 6x9TS6900pro on a Nemesis audio 500x4D([email protected]) 4 gauge power and ground wiring to chassis and body,an audiopipe 6 farad cap. I run a 200amp fuse from the battery(Duralast Gold) to The cap and then to a 4 way distribution block to amps. I honestly don’t know my total output but it makes my throat jiggle lol. I came across another ph4000.1 for $130(i know these amp really do about [email protected] with sufficient power) and want to hook 1 to each(2) Soundstream T5 dual2ohm 12” tarantula series @1ohm each for my future setup and add another 4 channel for more components
  3. Okay, brand new here. Quick questions for someone with vastly more experience than I have; I'm trying to hunt down an HO alty for my 2011 Nissan Sentra. It's the base 2.0L I4. The problem I'm running into is that the only place I seem to be able to find an HO alt that even FITS is through powerbastards (no good reviews that I can find) or through BNR (same issue). I found one place out in CA that had one with guaranteed direct fitment and 300/320A output, but they wanted $800 for it. Can anyone point me in the right direction of a HO alt that's NOT almost double my mortgage payment that can get me to the 200A mark without getting too far into custom brackets, etc? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Some additional details: Running a Memphis Audio 16-SRX750D.1 Also running (1) Kicker 44VL7S122 Amp gain is dialed back pretty far (50%) and still getting voltage drops at night when listening at a normal (high) volume. This car also has a CVT trans, which I've noticed seems to want to 'hang' in first while the sound system is engaged so I'm wondering if my current draw is throwing the shift point somehow.
  4. How many batteries, alternators, does a system need to run properly? Is their an equation to calculate what you need, what type of batteries, what size alternator you need? For example i'm going to get 2 9512's by digital designs and also an m3b by digital designs. Im just seeing if anybody actually knows.
  5. I’ve narrowed my search down to four options, 1. CES 300a, 240a hot idle for $605. 2. Mechman E 370a, 200a+ idle $599 3. CES 390a with 170-180 idle $595 Mechman and the 390 have machines aluminum cases not sure about the 300. 4. CES 370a , says around 200 idle for $495 but in regular ugly case. I know Mechman as 2 year warranty vs CES at 6 months. Leaning to the Mechman for 2 year warranty but the CES for 495 seems good, but ugly. Which of the two would you guys choose and why? Or maybe another brand for aroudnsame price? GP are about 900 and singers are about 759 with no billet case.
  6. Hello, i have a quick question i would appreciate the help. I ordered a 220 amp spx dc alternator, do you think it would be enough to handle a 2000 watt hifonics amp Along with 2kicker L7 15s.( soon upgrading to dc level 4) i bought a new yellow top optima That i could install when i get my alternator.
  7. Would a Deka 9a31 + xs d1200 + 1 under the hood battery with a stock alt be enough to power a True 1800rms amp???
  8. Looking for more output at idle from ANY alternator on your 1999-2012 GM truck or SUV ??? Look no further !!! We will soon be stocking OVERDRIVE harmonic ballancers for LS series GM trucks and SUV's with 4.8L, 5.3L, 6.0L, and 6.2L engines, 1999 through 2012. This replacement ballancer has a larger diameter 8 rib crankshaft pulley on it. This means that your alternator or alternators will be spinning 10% faster at idle, which can mean a 50 to 100 amp increase at idle, depending on which high output alternator(s) you have. If you are running multiple high output units and have a problem with belt slip, we also offer an 8 rib conversion that comes with everything you need to swap to an 8 rib belt, increasing belt traction and idle speed at the same time !! (alternator pulleys sold separately) On top of that, we will also be stocking SCT and Diablosport handheld tuners. These devices upload a high performance tune to your vehicle's engine computer that increases HP, and ALSO allows you to increase your engine idle speed to up to 1,000 rpm. The combination of a tuner, crank pulley, and our 370 amp Elite series unit would result in over 300 amps at idle !!! Watch for demo videos soon!!
  9. I am looking for a high output gm alternator for my 01 yukon because i got a damaged power supply on my amp and had to get it fixed because of voltage drop. i am not sure that this will help my voltage issues if anyone has a better idea that would help me prevent voltage drop. thanks
  10. So I have a 2009 Acura TL tech pack model that I installed a custom sound system in and I'm getting a bit of high pitch whine after driving the car for around an hour. The sound does not start immediately when the car is turned on but the sound (once it appears, after around an hour of running the car) does not go away when the HU is turned off. The system is as follows: 0 guage power and ground ran to two kinetik hc600 batteries and the grounded to the chassis off the last battery in line. The powere is ran off the last battery to a distro block then to the amps (using 4 guage) (one rockford fosgate p1000-1d and one rockford fosgate p400-4) Both amps ground to there own kinetik battery (using 4 gauge) and as stated before the last battery in line grounds to the chassis (with one 0 guage ground) I also have a rockford fosgate 3sixty.3 wired in from the factory amp speaker outputs to pick up sound from the HU so I can EQ the signal before its sent to the new amps. The 3sixty.3 then feeds the signal to the amps using Digital Designs buildable RCA cables which I have made to be very short and ran away from the power and ground wires. Due to the placement of the kinetik batteries and the I ran the ground for the 3sixty.3 to the last battery in line and the power to the first battery in line. My question are should I add a second run of 0 gauge wire to ground out the first kinetik battery to the chassis instead of grounding it to the next battery and if so should I ground it in the same location as the last battery? And does it matter that I'm running the power to one battery and ground to another on the 3sixty.3? And why doesnt the whine start until after the cars been running for some time? AND why does the sound remain after turning off the head unit? ps the sound goes away if I turn the car off and then immediately back on. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm a first time poster on here so please be nice and feel free to ask me for anything else you might need to help me diagnose this.
  11. i have two P1 12's being powered by an Alpine MRX-M50 (500 watt) and my lights already dim when the subs hit, even when im driving. i was thinking of changing to two 10's maybe p3's or W3v3's and a JL jx1000/1. My question is whether i would need another battery to power that amp with or if maybe my alternator or battery might need to be replaced.
  12. http://imgur.com/a/WEvkV Above is the link to the imgur album where you can view the pictures. Here is the list of all applicable vehicles for this alternator. This was sent to me directly from DC Power. This alt has seen about a year and 4 months of medium use in my tC from when I bought it in 2011 to when I uninstalled it. The black bracket you see makes it fit the above vehicles, otherwise the case is too big. I also included some extra hardware (not pictured) as I will have no use for it once I sell it. Accepting offers.
  13. I need an alternator for my '04 grand prix GT. I was looking for a 220-300 Amp choice to keep my electrical up to par. I have 2 XS power d975 (one front one back), big 3 wiring, but my long run is done by knu CCA and most wiring is CCA. (except for some big 3 strands and such) I am only running near 2k, but would having a strand of OFC 1/0 to my front to rear battery and perhaps another run of ground sufficiently make a difference? My amp only draws 150 A at max. In case I want to run 3k in the future, I would comfortably want a 250 - 300 A alt and upgrade my battery bank. What alt should I go with? I am really looking for something within the price range of 350-450$ Has anyone ever used stock case sized rebuilt alts and had good results?
  14. Alright guys, I am looking for some kind of fixed tensioner setup to convert my 2006 silverado with the 5.3L engine to. Reason is that I have installed a triple alt bracket and 2 h.o. alts and just replaced the tensioner, but it still slips with little load on the alternators. If I press the gas and have someone watch the automatic tensioner they can see the tensioner lose ground as the engine speeds up. I know its a long-shot and its alot of belt to tighten but just wondering if anybody knew of something.. thanks
  15. Check out the latest project from the Minds at Mechman. Thanks for stopping by. http://youtu.be/y448_4A830I
  16. I am trying to to the big three upgrade, but on a 2004 Ford Escape the alternator is under the engine and it is really tough to get to. I am trying to get to the post without having to take too much stuff apart to get to the alternator. If you have an idea or a solution please let me know.
  17. Hi I'm planning on doing the big 3 upgrade on my 2000 Chevy Malibu it has a stock alt and i'm using an acid battery also I'm not able to get access to my oem engine block to chassis ground wire so i'm wondering if its ok to use the alt mounting bracket bolt as engine ground instead? I read somewhere that the big 3 can cause acid batteries to explode which leads me to asking if I should wait and upgrade the battery first to an agm then do big 3 or will I be okay for couple of months also planning on upgrading alt but having hard time finding one for my car...
  18. hey everybody. im planning on running two 18 inch ssa zcons running off of two alpine mrx m240's . and a alpine mrx f65 4 channel amp. im planning on getting a 370 amp alternator for my truck and i wanted to get two xs power 3100's but they wont fit up front. so im wondering with a total of probly 500 amps pulling from my electrical if i would be okay. i was thinking of getting a dc power 370 amp alt and two d3400's. instead of the 3100's . i really wont have any room in the back for batterys and im wondering if ill be fine with that alt and the two d3400's up front using 8 runs of 0 gauge to the amps. so four positive and 4 negative. seperate 4 gauge for the component amp. thanks . id love to know how it would match up . ive ran a single mrx 240 but now with the amps going up id thought id make sure before wasting money on stuff i dont really need. this is also just a daily system although i do listen to some bass heavy songs. but no burps , and no competitions. thanks:)
  19. i have a 08 honda civic lx and i need to know how to remove the alternator .... i was re-doing the big three and over tighten the bolt for the main charging cord and soo then the fu***** bolt snapped ....smh i know right... so im going to replace it with a h/o alt but i cant seem to find out how to remove the damn thing .... photos or something would be nice for help ????
  20. I know this probably gets asked a lot but was hoping you guys would help me out. I want to run either a sq2200 or sq3500 on 1 hdc4 15 or 2 hdc3 15s along with the sq4-120. What electrical do I need to support this? Right now everything is stock except for optima yellow top and big 3 done. Vehicle is a 2008 chevy trailblazer lt i6. Thanks.
  21. So my 2014 Ford fusion is a great for tight spaces. And having trouble coming up with a alternator bracket design. But dream system simply can't happen without it. I atleast need some ideas for a bracket, mounting points and such unless someone may be willing to make me one. I've figured out (and I hope correctly) the max I can put in this thing is about 6k-7.5k of bass on 4 or 5 u series 10" sundown subs, and 800 watts of crescendo mezzo components on an c1100.4. If 6k then crescendo 6k amp, if 7.5k then sundown amp. I'mguessing 3 or 4 270 amp alts plus stock 170 amp alt, 3 or 4 xp3000's for secondary, 1 d3400 to replace starter battery, all alts 2 runs 2/0, (how should I connect wires in this system?, there are many options. All power to starter bat then starter bat [same amount of total runs to rear secondaries 2/0] to first secondary and so on or starter bat to each secondary battery [one run to first, one run to second and so on] then secondaries to amps using 1/0 and dual inputs to amps. Then for grounds, from alts, ground to chassis or run ground to chassis and starter bat then to secondaries, or all battery and alts ground to chassis? That's for audio, then I'm estimating on the high end 1000 watts for lighting system. Also do I have enough batts and alts in the system planned? Am I short or to much? Should I add lithium if so how do I wire that into the system? This is a link to engine bay pics for reference. https://photos.app.goo.gl/1PvssHTzAfz4qmW78
  22. I was just wondering what alternators people are running on their trailblazers. I have the i6 model and there doesn't seem to be much out their for them.
  23. I am planning on putting about 5,000 watts of power into a car and of course, it has the stock alt, so it probably won't hold up. I understand that alternators come in different sizes, let alone different amperage's, but I need to know how to go about selecting an alt that will fit my engine/car.
  24. I'm having a little fun in an 02 corolla, but I'm having a hard time finding a good H.O. alternator, any suggestions?
  25. All, I have a dual alt setup in my Tahoe, with a 370XP from DC solely for my subs. 2 weeks ago, I bought a 3rd Crescendo F31 to make sure my voltage was stiff for the 5500BC that I am waiting on. The funny thing is, when I added the 3rd battery, my voltage dropped by .2 It used to sit at 14.8 solid on 2 F31 and drop to 13.6 full tilt, Idling Now, it sits at 14.6 and only drops to 13.8, Idling So it helped but now my voltage sits .2 lower? I have 1 run of 1/0 Knu from the alternator to the battery bank, the batteries are grounded to each other, as well as to the chassis, full copper terminals, paint stripped to bare metals etc Anything I can do to get that .2 volts back? I know it's nitpicky but it bothers me. Equipment is listed in my signature All help is appreciated!
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