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Found 114 results

  1. So I have a 2009 Acura TL tech pack model that I installed a custom sound system in and I'm getting a bit of high pitch whine after driving the car for around an hour. The sound does not start immediately when the car is turned on but the sound (once it appears, after around an hour of running the car) does not go away when the HU is turned off. The system is as follows: 0 guage power and ground ran to two kinetik hc600 batteries and the grounded to the chassis off the last battery in line. The powere is ran off the last battery to a distro block then to the amps (using 4 guage) (one rockford fosgate p1000-1d and one rockford fosgate p400-4) Both amps ground to there own kinetik battery (using 4 gauge) and as stated before the last battery in line grounds to the chassis (with one 0 guage ground) I also have a rockford fosgate 3sixty.3 wired in from the factory amp speaker outputs to pick up sound from the HU so I can EQ the signal before its sent to the new amps. The 3sixty.3 then feeds the signal to the amps using Digital Designs buildable RCA cables which I have made to be very short and ran away from the power and ground wires. Due to the placement of the kinetik batteries and the I ran the ground for the 3sixty.3 to the last battery in line and the power to the first battery in line. My question are should I add a second run of 0 gauge wire to ground out the first kinetik battery to the chassis instead of grounding it to the next battery and if so should I ground it in the same location as the last battery? And does it matter that I'm running the power to one battery and ground to another on the 3sixty.3? And why doesnt the whine start until after the cars been running for some time? AND why does the sound remain after turning off the head unit? ps the sound goes away if I turn the car off and then immediately back on. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm a first time poster on here so please be nice and feel free to ask me for anything else you might need to help me diagnose this.
  2. So my 2014 Ford fusion is a great for tight spaces. And having trouble coming up with a alternator bracket design. But dream system simply can't happen without it. I atleast need some ideas for a bracket, mounting points and such unless someone may be willing to make me one. I've figured out (and I hope correctly) the max I can put in this thing is about 6k-7.5k of bass on 4 or 5 u series 10" sundown subs, and 800 watts of crescendo mezzo components on an c1100.4. If 6k then crescendo 6k amp, if 7.5k then sundown amp. I'mguessing 3 or 4 270 amp alts plus stock 170 amp alt, 3 or 4 xp3000's for secondary, 1 d3400 to replace starter battery, all alts 2 runs 2/0, (how should I connect wires in this system?, there are many options. All power to starter bat then starter bat [same amount of total runs to rear secondaries 2/0] to first secondary and so on or starter bat to each secondary battery [one run to first, one run to second and so on] then secondaries to amps using 1/0 and dual inputs to amps. Then for grounds, from alts, ground to chassis or run ground to chassis and starter bat then to secondaries, or all battery and alts ground to chassis? That's for audio, then I'm estimating on the high end 1000 watts for lighting system. Also do I have enough batts and alts in the system planned? Am I short or to much? Should I add lithium if so how do I wire that into the system? This is a link to engine bay pics for reference. https://photos.app.goo.gl/1PvssHTzAfz4qmW78
  3. I’ve narrowed my search down to four options, 1. CES 300a, 240a hot idle for $605. 2. Mechman E 370a, 200a+ idle $599 3. CES 390a with 170-180 idle $595 Mechman and the 390 have machines aluminum cases not sure about the 300. 4. CES 370a , says around 200 idle for $495 but in regular ugly case. I know Mechman as 2 year warranty vs CES at 6 months. Leaning to the Mechman for 2 year warranty but the CES for 495 seems good, but ugly. Which of the two would you guys choose and why? Or maybe another brand for aroudnsame price? GP are about 900 and singers are about 759 with no billet case.
  4. MECHMAN TRIPLE ALTERNATOR BRACKET KIT IS NOW AVAILABLE!!!! 1996 - 2000 GM TRUCK AND SUV WITH 5.7L ENGINE ONLY INCLUDES: SUBURBAN, TAHOE, YUKON, ESCALADE, FULL SIZE BLAZER, SILVERADO, AND SIERRA OPTIONS "IDLE-MAX" TRIPLE KIT WITH THREE 170AMP UNITS AND AVBM: $1549 **450 AMPS AT 500 RPM ENGINE SPEED TRIPLE KIT WITH THREE 240 AMP UNITS AND AVBM: $1699 **390 AMPS AT 600 RPM ENGINE SPEED TRIPLE KIT WITH THREE 320 AMP UNITS AND AVBM: $1849 **390 AMPS AT 600 RPM ENGINE SPEED
  5. I am looking to upgrade the electrical in my Honda Civic 1.8L 08 Coupe. I already have done some preliminary stuff, but I am in need of an alternator option. From what I can tell Mechman is a great option, but I wanted to know if anyone has had experiences with Mechman in a Civic? or any other companies for that matter.
  6. Good day SMD community, About to undertake electrical wiring upgrade on my 2017 F-150 3.5L EcoBoost XLT. Alternator is not super accessible so I'm thinking this may be tricky and wondering if anyone else has done big 3 on a 2015 up f-150 and can provide some direction. Pics and tricks for this specific vehicle would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  7. FOR SALE $135 Brand new apex alternator 200 amp for a 1998 Toyota Camry 2.2l 4cyl
  8. Just wanting to see if anyone can either point out the part # or if they are selling a dual or triple alternator bracket for a Ford F150 1997 4.6L V8. If its even possible with my model.
  9. Any advice/recommendations are appreciated. Planning out a new system build for my 2001 Ford Escape. The new system will include two soundqubed 18's (HDC3s or HDC4s if I can find them for the right price) in a 12 cube ported box. For amps I'm either going to strap two CAB 1600s or just get a taramps 8K. My question is whether one XS Power d3400 will be enough (along with a d1200) or should I go for the d3100. I have a stock alternator (110 amps) without the big 3 upgrade with 0 gauge welding cable from front to back. Current system has a kicker KX 2400.1 (2600 watts rms) with a XS Power d1200.
  10. Need advice on finding somewhere to buy a high output alternator for a 95 Honda Accord Lx, has the f22b2 engine in it and the stock alternator has 80 amps, looking for a place to get a alternator that has 250amps if I am correct. I already have the big 3 done, running ofc wire from front of car to rear ~17 ft Db Drive 2000.1 for subwoofer Rocford Fosgate R250x4 Prime 4-Channel Amp for doors currently
  11. I plan on getting a mechman alt for my jeep wrangler jk with the 3.8L and air conditioning about a 90" belt i think thier site says it needs a slightly shorter belt was wondering if anyone has done this and could offer advise
  12. Hey guys I have a question I've been working on my own systems for awhile now but recently my alternator died when I put my old system in earlier this year I sold my system to my friend and it killed his old alternator and his new alternator(60amp) I thought his alternators kept dying but I bought my system back from him the on the same day almost instantly my alternator took a crap on me the system I have is a digital designs c3b pushing around 500w rms and I have a power acoustik mofo 12 wired at 2 ohms and my stock alternator(130amp)(20yr old alternator) used to push this system speaking as this was my old system but now on the first day I put it back in it kills my alternator I'm thinking I just sucked the last bit of juice out of the alternator or is it possible that the amp is bad and it some how shorts out alternators?
  13. Okay, so I have been doing some research on running a 14v or possibly a 16v system for my sub stage. I have found a lot of useful information, but I still have a few questions. My plan would be to keep my factory alt and 12v battery for the factory electrical components, and then run two 270a alts externally regulated to charge at 14v or 16v (Undecided). I know if I do this I will need a bank of batteries at decided voltage (14v or 16v). The amp I will be running is the Incriminator IA40.1, which can handle up to 19v. I will be running 6 Sound cubed HDS3 12s, which are rated at 1200rms a piece, Roughly 7200rms total. I have found out my 12v and 14v or 16v system can share a common ground with no issue. So I guess my main question is, will running a higher voltage system cause added strain on the amplifier or alternators. I have read that higher voltage systems can be unpredictable, but from what I picked up this was only if you were to try to run a single system with step downs etc. and not have two isolated systems. Basically what I would like to know, is what are the cons of running a 14v or 16v system over a 12v system. This will be my daily.. (kind of, I have a back up truck) but it is not a competition vehicle.
  14. Hello everyone i have a relatively mid powered system. I am having a issue with my electric system. I know this topic is being discussed million times, but I'm not sure what to believe. my system is as follows: pionner unit x2700bs 6.2" touchscreen pioneer gm-d9605 5 channel amp, 4x 75watts @ 4ohm and 1x 600 watts @ 2ohm (2000watts max) class d amp two nvx 6.5 speakers @50watts and two nvx 6x9 @ 55 watts, plus, two 12" rockford fosgate single [email protected] p1s4-12 connected in parallel for a final impidence of 2ohms, 250watts each, 500 -600 watts total 4 guage wire for + and - of the amp 14 guage speaker wires/ 8 guage amp wires stock alternator 110amps xspower d1200 battery big 3 upgrade with 1/0 guage wire from xspower kit All gains set properly with smd dd1 deck clips at 38 out of 40 but i never pass 31 my problem is that my headlights dims when the bass hits, and also i have voltage drops when the bass hits, at the battery terminals it goes from 13.8 to 12.5, or even lower. At the amp terminals its always 12.8 and it drops to 11.2 or lower. I also noticed a change of the engine noise, meaning that when the bass hits, looks like the rpms are affected or something, because the noise reduces every time the bass hits. I would like to play loud, but also not stress out my other electrics/electronics in my car. any suggestions?
  15. Well guys finally starting my build i got the subs in and the wood just trying to figure out how to do this box i will have pics on the design tonight i am just having trouble with the port. XS power D3400 Coming in the mail soon and not sure on what amp yet ether crescendo or DC I am Thinking 3000 or 2000 RMS not sure yet. Here is the truck and please put your input in i want this thing to be the best it can be.Equipment List2001 GMC sierraDropped on 20sPioneer 1400 DVDFPioneer 4x6MB Quart Component setRockford Fosgate R300-4Audio Technix Zero GaugeXS D3400-Mechman 270 AltDC Power Level 4 10s M2SMD DD-1 ChristmasDC 3.5k SOONMore to come
  16. I am getting ready to do my build and I want to make sure I am well prepared. I currently have a 300a HO alternator and a Xstatic Batcap 2000 in the rear and just a regular Duralast Gold up front. All 1/0 wiring throughout. I am running about 3.5kw watts. Will this be enough to support my system? I will be playing with the vehicle powered on and will never play with it off. I'm just wondering if I should get a different battery up front, add another rear battery or leave it as is. I went with the Xstatic Batcap because I got it for a good price when I bought my alternator but after doing some reading I have read that it doesn't have much reserve capacity and is good for burps and not so much daily....not sure how true that is. Thanks for any help!
  17. I need some help as I am installing some stuff into my 2012 Mazda 6 i sport. I have a double din, and 2 amps. The issue is I had 2 renegade amps installed and only needed to run a true 4awg wire to a block and then to the 2 amps. well those were not cutting it so i went and got a MB quart 800.4 for my door speakers and a Rockford T1500dbCP amp going to a JL audio 13w7 sub. My big issue is my alternator puts out only 90 amps and i cant find a single place that will sell a HO alternator that is a drop fit into my mazda 6 and I didnt want to have to mod anything to get it to fit. Can I keep the same stock alternator if I did the Big 3, and got a spare battery for the trunk? I am only asking this because I would figure from what I have read that the Big 3 and battery would be the very very minimum Ill need to push both new amps i have now, specially because i seen people saying they should have a battery for an RF 1500bdCP only and i have that plus the MB Quart 800.4 and a double din HU. I would ask about a cap but from what i have read that wont help much anyways because they that just puts even more of a drain on my alternator when I cant upgrade that anyway(dont really want to unless I have too and have no choice). here is what I was thinking about buying to try but figured i would ask first and buy once.... http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_74888_XS-Power-XP750-CK.html and this http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_86030_Belva-BBG3KT.html Thanks for the help in advance, its much appreciated.
  18. Electrical: 130 amp alt 4 gauge big 3 70ah agm under the hood 1 run of 2/0 welding wire to the back 110ah kinetic hc2400 in the back with 2/0 welding ground lead 1/0 KFC sky high wire to the amp System: Ct sounds 3000.1 4 Sundown SA 15 wired to 1 ohm So the first 2 weeks were fine going full tilt nothing weird then. About a week ago I noticed after full tilt the subs were a lil warm and seemed like they smelled a lil. At about the same time I noticed my voltage immediately dropping to 12.3 or lower from 14.7. Rarely dropping below 12.0. Could it be that I don't have enough voltage and it's causing the amp to heat the subs up faster than it should. I also notice when I'm driving that voltage doesn't drop as low of course but it's also a lot louder and they don't seem to get warm at all. Could it be that my alternator isn't enough or is going out and the voltage is being a bigger issue than it seems? Side note I have a 240amp on the way no matter what.
  19. What's a good reference point to upgrade the stock car's electric system, rather than waiting until the lights are dimming like mad and the alternator dies? Is there a minimum wattage before things like the Big 3 and Battery changes are required? Comment what you guys have done. Thanks!
  20. I've noticed that if I disconnect the negative terminal on my battery I still have power to the vehicle. I'll have to disconnect the positive to get it to completely turn off. I did an alternator swap on the Trailblazer and the big three so why do you you think this is happening? I've posted my set up on my build page as far as wiring. I can put a pic in this post if needed. Thanks!
  21. This is what my pulley is doing. I have a new belt on it, however it is the aftermarket correct length for a regular alternator. Does anyone know the correct model number in the Continental brand I can get? I'm sure this is not normal at idle and I need a shorter length. Just don't know how much... Belt I ordered. https://www.amazon.com/Continental-Elite-4060905-Poly-V-Serpentine/dp/B000C34KU6
  22. Okay guys so Im having problems. I have a 2011 Toyota Camry with a 2.4L engine. I have an old school Power Acoustik 820w amp powering 2 Kicker CVRs ( I know, basic system.. but Im a college student so its all I can afford). I also have a second battery in the trunk that is a decent size car audio battery. I'm having a severe voltage issue. Ever since I got the car the voltage has been low. Its also very temperature dependent, but typically once the engine is warm it sits at 13.3v-13.5v. This is without the subs playing. When i turn on something like headlights (hids) the voltage will drop .1v for a moment and then go right back to where it was sitting. I live in south Alabama, USA. So temperatures lately are around 100'F.. Ive owned the car for over a year and its been doing this the entire time. Ive had a lot of cars throrought my life and anytime an alternator went this low, it eventually went out. but this one is still holding steady.. Has anyone ever had an issue like this???? Could it be some sensor or regulator?? HELP!!! Also... Would doing a big 3 upgrade help with this problem, or help improve the flow of power in general? Thanks.
  23. I recently ordered a soundqubed HDC 3.15 D1, (thanks to helpful recommendations from members here), and am hung up on which amp to order. I was warned a 2000 watt amp would require full electrical upgrades. I believe I'm currently running the stock 117 amp alternator (will confirm that soon) in my 98 jeep cherokee with a gm-d8604 amp to four coax speakers. I will be upgrading my battery cables and alternator cables to 1 awg soon. If I went with the q1-2200.2 what would be the best but cheapest way to power that? I've looked into h.o. alternators but I'm not sure. Additional batteries? I know the HDC 3.15 can take more but how much power would the q1-1200.2 require and what minimum electrical upgrades would I need for that? Any other amp suggestions for the HDC 3,15 with minimal electrical upgrades needed? Thanks for all the help, I'm trying to search for box plans myself, but any advice on that is welcome too.
  24. I was curious if anyone had any recommendations as far as obtaining a HO Alt for my 2013 Veloster. I'm currently running stock 90 Amp with a XS D4800 up front as well. The Amp I am running now is a Rockford Prime r1200-1D (Current electrical handles well). I will soon be upgrading to a Soundqubed Q1-2200.2 at 1ohm. I originally had looked at Mechman but they don't seem to handle anything Hyundai, as far as I can tell. I found this one here: http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/item_612/Hyundai-Veloster.htm but i'm not so sure about the brand. Perhaps contacting Singer Alts would be the better choice? Maybe just an additional battery?
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