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Found 86 results

  1. Hi I'm planning on doing the big 3 upgrade on my 2000 Chevy Malibu it has a stock alt and i'm using an acid battery also I'm not able to get access to my oem engine block to chassis ground wire so i'm wondering if its ok to use the alt mounting bracket bolt as engine ground instead? I read somewhere that the big 3 can cause acid batteries to explode which leads me to asking if I should wait and upgrade the battery first to an agm then do big 3 or will I be okay for couple of months also planning on upgrading alt but having hard time finding one for my car...
  2. So I have a 2009 Acura TL tech pack model that I installed a custom sound system in and I'm getting a bit of high pitch whine after driving the car for around an hour. The sound does not start immediately when the car is turned on but the sound (once it appears, after around an hour of running the car) does not go away when the HU is turned off. The system is as follows: 0 guage power and ground ran to two kinetik hc600 batteries and the grounded to the chassis off the last battery in line. The powere is ran off the last battery to a distro block then to the amps (using 4 guage) (one rockford fosgate p1000-1d and one rockford fosgate p400-4) Both amps ground to there own kinetik battery (using 4 gauge) and as stated before the last battery in line grounds to the chassis (with one 0 guage ground) I also have a rockford fosgate 3sixty.3 wired in from the factory amp speaker outputs to pick up sound from the HU so I can EQ the signal before its sent to the new amps. The 3sixty.3 then feeds the signal to the amps using Digital Designs buildable RCA cables which I have made to be very short and ran away from the power and ground wires. Due to the placement of the kinetik batteries and the I ran the ground for the 3sixty.3 to the last battery in line and the power to the first battery in line. My question are should I add a second run of 0 gauge wire to ground out the first kinetik battery to the chassis instead of grounding it to the next battery and if so should I ground it in the same location as the last battery? And does it matter that I'm running the power to one battery and ground to another on the 3sixty.3? And why doesnt the whine start until after the cars been running for some time? AND why does the sound remain after turning off the head unit? ps the sound goes away if I turn the car off and then immediately back on. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm a first time poster on here so please be nice and feel free to ask me for anything else you might need to help me diagnose this.
  3. So my 2014 Ford fusion is a great for tight spaces. And having trouble coming up with a alternator bracket design. But dream system simply can't happen without it. I atleast need some ideas for a bracket, mounting points and such unless someone may be willing to make me one. I've figured out (and I hope correctly) the max I can put in this thing is about 6k-7.5k of bass on 4 or 5 u series 10" sundown subs, and 800 watts of crescendo mezzo components on an c1100.4. If 6k then crescendo 6k amp, if 7.5k then sundown amp. I'mguessing 3 or 4 270 amp alts plus stock 170 amp alt, 3 or 4 xp3000's for secondary, 1 d3400 to replace starter battery, all alts 2 runs 2/0, (how should I connect wires in this system?, there are many options. All power to starter bat then starter bat [same amount of total runs to rear secondaries 2/0] to first secondary and so on or starter bat to each secondary battery [one run to first, one run to second and so on] then secondaries to amps using 1/0 and dual inputs to amps. Then for grounds, from alts, ground to chassis or run ground to chassis and starter bat then to secondaries, or all battery and alts ground to chassis? That's for audio, then I'm estimating on the high end 1000 watts for lighting system. Also do I have enough batts and alts in the system planned? Am I short or to much? Should I add lithium if so how do I wire that into the system? This is a link to engine bay pics for reference. https://photos.app.goo.gl/1PvssHTzAfz4qmW78
  4. I’ve narrowed my search down to four options, 1. CES 300a, 240a hot idle for $605. 2. Mechman E 370a, 200a+ idle $599 3. CES 390a with 170-180 idle $595 Mechman and the 390 have machines aluminum cases not sure about the 300. 4. CES 370a , says around 200 idle for $495 but in regular ugly case. I know Mechman as 2 year warranty vs CES at 6 months. Leaning to the Mechman for 2 year warranty but the CES for 495 seems good, but ugly. Which of the two would you guys choose and why? Or maybe another brand for aroudnsame price? GP are about 900 and singers are about 759 with no billet case.
  5. I have an 03 accord with a dc 2.0k amp for the bass and a jl 360/4 for the highs, I've done the big 3, but just put a vote meter on today and I drop to 11.4 when the bass hits hard. I have a yellow top optima under the hood and a stinger spp925 in the trunk. How many amps should I run on an alternator to solve my voltage drop, and what is the lowest safe voltage to run my amp at. Thank you and sorry for this long essay lol.
  6. How many batteries, alternators, does a system need to run properly? Is their an equation to calculate what you need, what type of batteries, what size alternator you need? For example i'm going to get 2 9512's by digital designs and also an m3b by digital designs. Im just seeing if anybody actually knows.
  7. Alright, so I'm just starting look into future options for my stereo. I figure a little background info might help. Right now I'm running a 15" FI BL fully loaded with a Kenwood 9105D at 1ohm which is about ~900 or so RMS. I don't have anything special in terms of electrical yet, but I am looking to go the route of 2 DC Level 4 15s and running about 3500 rms to them. I've literally looked every single place I can find online for a high output alt and can't find anything to fit my car. I have a 2008 Ford Escape 3.0L V6. Anyone have any ideas or know where I should look around?
  8. Hey guys, New to the forums as a member, but not new as a reader. I have recently purchased a car that I want to "do right" from the start and wanted some input. I have done a lot of searching, but it seems that I could not find a similar situation already posted. 2006 Dodge Magnum SXT (3.5L) Questions 1) The main battery is already in the trunk of the car (next to the spare tire). This already has what seems to be factory 1/0 gauge wiring running to it from the alternator. So my question is. a) Do I stick with this wire or rewire it with aftermarket wire. If I stick with this wire, should I fuse it before the battery (it currently is not fused). 2) I also want to run 2 more batteries. Should I make a separate run from the alternators to these batteries, or simply hook these batteries up to the main battery and run them like that? 3) Will doing the "big 3" mean as much to me, since the initial run to the main battery (and future additional batteries) be so long (at least for the power wire). 4) Depending on if I keep the current main power wire, or run multiple runs, will either of those affect if the 2 additional batteries (which will be the same) are different from the main battery? I am planning on running around 3000-4000 watts RMS total (including mids and highs) for this car. I have already ordered a 320 amp hairpin Singer alternator. Any knowledge is much appreciated. The thing that is throwing me off from reading most posts is the main battery is already in the back.
  9. Hello, i have a quick question i would appreciate the help. I ordered a 220 amp spx dc alternator, do you think it would be enough to handle a 2000 watt hifonics amp Along with 2kicker L7 15s.( soon upgrading to dc level 4) i bought a new yellow top optima That i could install when i get my alternator.
  10. Would a Deka 9a31 + xs d1200 + 1 under the hood battery with a stock alt be enough to power a True 1800rms amp???
  11. So I am making a triple alt bracket for my 4.8 Silverado, tryin to make it since its too expensive to by a dual alt or even triple alt setup for me right now. so I have bought 3/8 plate, pulleys, 2 145amp oem alts on top of my stock 105, and a belt idk what size yet but wont be an issue. So only thing im missing is a harness to link the alts, ive looked and cant seem to find how to do it myself but I want a professional look and stock connectors. I have called DC Power and they wont sell me one since I have not bought an alt from them, im in the process of tryin to call around the next few days but was wondering if someone had one they don't need from their kit or knows where to get one at decent price for a triple alt setup, thx in advance.
  12. I have a stock battery up front in the engine compartment and a CRESCENDO LOGIC F-31HP AGM POWERCELL in the back. I will eventually replace the stock alternator with a high output alternator either mechman or dc power but which ever one would be about 250A max; idling around 180-200A. I was planning on running one run of 1/0 from the battery up front to the battery in the back (+ to + and - to -). But after doing some looking and reading around, I feel like I'm on the edge of the 1/0 amperage capacity. Or am I reading the chart or thinking about this all wrong? The length of the run will be somewhere between 12'-20'. I know, it is a big range, but I'm trying to play it safe by overestimating. QUESTION: Am I safe with the one run of 1/0 or should I have another positive to positive 1/0 wire or also a wire from the back battery negative to the chassis also or one 2/0 wire, or what? I want to hear everyone's thoughts and suggestions! Oh, and what size of fuses (2 of them; one close to each battery, right?) should I get for the positive wire?
  13. For Sale: 275a Singer Alternator It was installed in a 2005 Dodge Stratus. Was in there for around a year with no problems. I had two Sundown X 12s on a Powerbass 3k. Never had any issues with voltage. Was originally $489, I would like to get $300 for it. I do not know if the warranty is transferable, but I know SInger honors his work, so I am sure that whoever buys it can just shoot him an email and find out. He did send me a list of what other vehicles the alternator can be installed on. The alternator is plug and play with these cars and engines only. It also comes with the belt that I bought for it. 2005 Dodge Stratus R/T Coupe 2-Door 2.7L 2700CC 167Cu. In. V6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated 2005 Dodge Stratus SXT Coupe 2-Door 2.7L 2700CC 167Cu. In. V6 FLEX DOHC Naturally Aspirated 2005 Dodge Stratus SXT Coupe 2-Door 2.7L 2700CC 167Cu. In. V6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated 2005 Dodge Stratus SXT Sedan 4-Door 2.4L 2429CC 148Cu. In. l4 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirateted INTERCHANGE: SEBRING 2003-2005 Sdn SEBRING 2003-2005 Conv SEBRING 2001-2002 Sdn SEBRING 2001-2002 Conv SEBRING 2006 (Conv,Sdn) STRATUS 2001-2002 Sdn STRATUS 2003-2005 Sdn STRATUS 2006 (Sdn) Ive done quite a few deals on here off and on over the years, to my knowledge I have never had any issues with any transaction whether I was the buyer or the seller. As usual I prefer Paypal.
  14. So last year I called up Mechman and they didn't have the specs to build an alternator for my 2014 Nissan Altima 2.5. I called recently and they will not be able to do my vehicle due to fitting issues Are there any alternatives out there or any other dealers that make one for my vehicle?
  15. Looking for more output at idle from ANY alternator on your 1999-2012 GM truck or SUV ??? Look no further !!! We will soon be stocking OVERDRIVE harmonic ballancers for LS series GM trucks and SUV's with 4.8L, 5.3L, 6.0L, and 6.2L engines, 1999 through 2012. This replacement ballancer has a larger diameter 8 rib crankshaft pulley on it. This means that your alternator or alternators will be spinning 10% faster at idle, which can mean a 50 to 100 amp increase at idle, depending on which high output alternator(s) you have. If you are running multiple high output units and have a problem with belt slip, we also offer an 8 rib conversion that comes with everything you need to swap to an 8 rib belt, increasing belt traction and idle speed at the same time !! (alternator pulleys sold separately) On top of that, we will also be stocking SCT and Diablosport handheld tuners. These devices upload a high performance tune to your vehicle's engine computer that increases HP, and ALSO allows you to increase your engine idle speed to up to 1,000 rpm. The combination of a tuner, crank pulley, and our 370 amp Elite series unit would result in over 300 amps at idle !!! Watch for demo videos soon!!
  16. Hello everyone i have a relatively mid powered system. I am having a issue with my electric system. I know this topic is being discussed million times, but I'm not sure what to believe. my system is as follows: pionner unit x2700bs 6.2" touchscreen pioneer gm-d9605 5 channel amp, 4x 75watts @ 4ohm and 1x 600 watts @ 2ohm (2000watts max) class d amp two nvx 6.5 speakers @50watts and two nvx 6x9 @ 55 watts, plus, two 12" rockford fosgate single [email protected] p1s4-12 connected in parallel for a final impidence of 2ohms, 250watts each, 500 -600 watts total 4 guage wire for + and - of the amp 14 guage speaker wires/ 8 guage amp wires stock alternator 110amps xspower d1200 battery big 3 upgrade with 1/0 guage wire from xspower kit All gains set properly with smd dd1 deck clips at 38 out of 40 but i never pass 31 my problem is that my headlights dims when the bass hits, and also i have voltage drops when the bass hits, at the battery terminals it goes from 13.8 to 12.5, or even lower. At the amp terminals its always 12.8 and it drops to 11.2 or lower. I also noticed a change of the engine noise, meaning that when the bass hits, looks like the rpms are affected or something, because the noise reduces every time the bass hits. I would like to play loud, but also not stress out my other electrics/electronics in my car. any suggestions?
  17. Okay, so I have been doing some research on running a 14v or possibly a 16v system for my sub stage. I have found a lot of useful information, but I still have a few questions. My plan would be to keep my factory alt and 12v battery for the factory electrical components, and then run two 270a alts externally regulated to charge at 14v or 16v (Undecided). I know if I do this I will need a bank of batteries at decided voltage (14v or 16v). The amp I will be running is the Incriminator IA40.1, which can handle up to 19v. I will be running 6 Sound cubed HDS3 12s, which are rated at 1200rms a piece, Roughly 7200rms total. I have found out my 12v and 14v or 16v system can share a common ground with no issue. So I guess my main question is, will running a higher voltage system cause added strain on the amplifier or alternators. I have read that higher voltage systems can be unpredictable, but from what I picked up this was only if you were to try to run a single system with step downs etc. and not have two isolated systems. Basically what I would like to know, is what are the cons of running a 14v or 16v system over a 12v system. This will be my daily.. (kind of, I have a back up truck) but it is not a competition vehicle.
  18. My options are between singer and dc power. I have heard good things about both. I contacted singer and he said that he can make me an 180 amp alternator and it would take between 2 - weeks. I contacted dc and they have the 250 and 270xp for me and said it would take 14 days to build. I want to go with the 270xp because its more amps and heard good things about them but read a lot about how long people have to wait to get alternators from them and when I did try to place my order I can't seem to get in touch with anyone and I have been calling a lot. So my question is should I just go with the 180 from singer or wait on the 270 from dc?
  19. 1/0 CCI ROYALE EXCELENE WELDING CABLE seen a couple people like yu-kong use this kind of wire for his install and i might as well pick some up myself, great deal, $2.48 a foot http://www.wireandsupply.com/category_s/57.htm Any thoughts on this? True wire gauge, etc
  20. I am looking for a high output gm alternator for my 01 yukon because i got a damaged power supply on my amp and had to get it fixed because of voltage drop. i am not sure that this will help my voltage issues if anyone has a better idea that would help me prevent voltage drop. thanks
  21. Hi, I have 3 optima yt batteries at the moment to power my amplifier. These 3 batteries is in the trunk of my car and then i also have a stock battery under the hood and i can only fit one alternator. Now to the problem, how exactly do i make my alternator charge the batteries in the trunk without having my bad stock battery in the circuit, i heard that it is not a good idea to to have a bad battery connected to my batterybank. Please help me, it would mean alot. Sorry if my english is bad. Thanks in advance, Tobias
  22. Hello all, I am in the process of redoing the factory stereo completely and have decided to go bigger than I thought I would lol!. System is Rockford P1000x5 running 4 6.5's and 1 12" Rockford p3 at 1 ohm. I have 2 more p3's waiting to go in along with a p1000x2. Looking to upgrade alternator to Mechman 270 amp with all needed beefier wiring etc....When hooking up this alternator would you connect the factory power wire to it as well as 1/0? Any issues that I may deal with going this route? Thank you for any and all advice!!
  23. I am new here and have lots of questions for you all. Some of these questions are probably very stupid and I should already know the answers...but I don't, so take it easy on me please. I had been running the same system for the past 5 years in my old vehicle, and I want to change it up. Old vehicle R.I.P, "new" vehicle= 2004 Ford Escape (3.0 v6 if it matters) Here's the plan... Stock alternator, Optima yellow top, big 3 upgrade, SoundQubed HDS315, SoundQubed Q1-1200, sub up-port back... Now the questions: 1. Will I be alright with this, or will I NEED a high output alternator and/or additional battery? ...will have lots more questions based on this answer 2. I should I wire from 2 ohm to 1 ohm...correct? 3. Can I run 0 gauge wire? 4. Anyone have a contact for box design?
  24. I received my mechman 370 alternator today and installed, however it's charging at 19v I'm sure this is not safe and was wondering if I did anything wrong. I have big 3 all 1/0 Memphis wire. Any help would be appreciated
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