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I use Popsicle sticks if im mixing in a small cup or a paint stir stick (free in the paint dept) broke in half the long way for bigger containers. After you put the hardener in with the resin mix it like a crazy person but be careful not to spill cuz it sucks to clean up. I usually put a piece of cardboard down on the table so I can just throw it away after. Cut up a bunch of squares and rectangles that are a few different sizes before mixing your resin and hardener. I like to spread my pieces out on the cardboard and resin them up and then put them on so they are kinda pre soaked. That's just me though. Have fun with it

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So no resin hardener?

yes hardener is required and it comes with the resin, sorry my brains not fully functional at 3 in the morning lol

Does it I was looking for some but it is separate :/ and I'm FiberglassingI for laughs kearn something new

you can buy it seperately as you have to mix more hardener the lower the temp is, getting the ratio right is crucial if you mix a little too much itll harden in minutes and creates a bit of heat that causes stress cracks in the glass, and if you mix too little it takes forever to dry, you also need to make sure its mixed well or youll end up with soft spots

Damn sounds like a pain to get the ratio right... Suppose I would rather mix to little and let it sit a few days then to much lol guess I gotta experiment with it. I see resin is sold in bigger incremints than hardener so I would assume you don't need much hardener

in the fiberglassing section theres a ratio list pinned for the mekp hardener(resin hardener)

Okay I think I might try with my kick panels since I'm not using them as for the mdf cutout what would I use to hold that up while I resin it?

you can use wooden dowels or strips of leftover mdf and screw it to the kicks, and if you have a good staple gun you can staple the fabric to the plastic. i had to do that on the door panels i did, youll prolly have to bend the staples over in the back for clearance when you reinstall, and also make sure to rough the plastic up with 60 or 80 grit to get the glass to adhere to the plastic. if you take you time and pay attention to detail you could have something that looks like this

421828_216470515115171_100002566727865_422083_982244113_n.jpg

That looks clean man I think I get what you mean by dowels... So sand it with 80 grit then use Just little strips of mdf as tall as I want it to stick out mdf ring as big as the speaker screw dowels to kick from the back hidden if it was installed screw mdf ring to the dowels put the fleece over it TIGHT staple it in back as well by screws apply resin hardener sand a little more once dry the high spots or to shape it add bondo let it try sand again finer grit 120 or so them paint?

close you got it good up until the hardener, stretch the fleece and staple it down then apply the resin/hardener mixture then while its still tacky(if its not tacky anymore you have to wait till its dry then sand it to get the next coat to adhere) apply the mat and coat it in the resin/hardener mixture, depending on how strong you want it depends on how many coats of mat and resin you use, for kicks 2 coats of mat and resin are plenty but for sub enclosures you want somewhere around 5 to 7 depending on how thick the mat is, then hit it with the 80 grit spread the bondo sand it nice and prime then paint

Edited by jrchevy87
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So no resin hardener?

yes hardener is required and it comes with the resin, sorry my brains not fully functional at 3 in the morning lol

Does it I was looking for some but it is separate :/ and I'm FiberglassingI for laughs kearn something new

you can buy it seperately as you have to mix more hardener the lower the temp is, getting the ratio right is crucial if you mix a little too much itll harden in minutes and creates a bit of heat that causes stress cracks in the glass, and if you mix too little it takes forever to dry, you also need to make sure its mixed well or youll end up with soft spots

Damn sounds like a pain to get the ratio right... Suppose I would rather mix to little and let it sit a few days then to much lol guess I gotta experiment with it. I see resin is sold in bigger incremints than hardener so I would assume you don't need much hardener

in the fiberglassing section theres a ratio list pinned for the mekp hardener(resin hardener)

Okay I think I might try with my kick panels since I'm not using them as for the mdf cutout what would I use to hold that up while I resin it?

you can use wooden dowels or strips of leftover mdf and screw it to the kicks, and if you have a good staple gun you can staple the fabric to the plastic. i had to do that on the door panels i did, youll prolly have to bend the staples over in the back for clearance when you reinstall, and also make sure to rough the plastic up with 60 or 80 grit to get the glass to adhere to the plastic. if you take you time and pay attention to detail you could have something that looks like this

421828_216470515115171_100002566727865_422083_982244113_n.jpg

That looks clean man I think I get what you mean by dowels... So sand it with 80 grit then use Just little strips of mdf as tall as I want it to stick out mdf ring as big as the speaker screw dowels to kick from the back hidden if it was installed screw mdf ring to the dowels put the fleece over it TIGHT staple it in back as well by screws apply resin hardener sand a little more once dry the high spots or to shape it add bondo let it try sand again finer grit 120 or so them paint?

close you got it good up until the hardener, stretch the fleece and staple it down then apply the resin/hardener mixture then while its still tacky apply the mat and coat it in the resin/hardener mixture, depending on how strong you want it depends on how many coats of mat and resin you use, for kicks 2 coats of mat and resin are plenty but for sub enclosures you want somewhere around 5 to 7 depending on how thick the mat is, then hit it with the 80 grit spread the bondo sand it nice and prime then paint

My apologies but you said apply reasin and hardener then mat and coat it with resin and hardener? Is that the same step? Only part I'm not understanding Edited by TheNewbie

Check out my build log:

http://www.stevemead...60#entry1958353

Different folks have different strokes.

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I take it the mat is another price I need to buy. So soak the fleece out it it around my kicks with the mdf ring yada yada staple the fleece tight waitbforbit to dry add th mat? Put resin on that let it dry another coat dry them sand bondo and sand some more

Check out my build log:

http://www.stevemead...60#entry1958353

Different folks have different strokes.

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I take it the mat is another price I need to buy. So soak the fleece out it it around my kicks with the mdf ring yada yada staple the fleece tight waitbforbit to dry add th mat? Put resin on that let it dry another coat dry them sand bondo and sand some more

i think u meant stretch the fleece lol after you stretch the fleece soak it, but dont let the resin dry in between coats if it does dry you have to sand it again and that will eat up sandpaper, and for the mat autozone or advance sell it for around 8-10 bux its not the best stuff but it holds up to a re sx18 on 1000 watts, ill see if i can dig up some of the glassing photos for the 18 box and door panels and ill make a log tommorow and shoot you the link but im getting off for tonight its 4 in the morning and i gotta be up in a few hours, o and check my jeep(link in the sig) build ive got a few shots of it fleeced then fiberglassed

Edited by jrchevy87
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I take it the mat is another price I need to buy. So soak the fleece out it it around my kicks with the mdf ring yada yada staple the fleece tight waitbforbit to dry add th mat? Put resin on that let it dry another coat dry them sand bondo and sand some more

Ment soak as it was said above. The Fleese is first then the Matt? Both get layered with resin? Thanks for your help btw fellers

i think u meant stretch the fleece lol after you stretch the fleece soak it, but dont let the resin dry in between coats if it does dry you have to sand it again and that will eat up sandpaper, and for the mat autozone or advance sell it for around 8-10 bux its not the best stuff but it holds up to a re sx18 on 1000 watts

Check out my build log:

http://www.stevemead...60#entry1958353

Different folks have different strokes.

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