CLNSHVNnDRAGGN Posted April 28, 2012 Report Share Posted April 28, 2012 If you need any help with designing it you can email me at [email protected] since I probably won't be on here much the next week or two because of finals. www.facebook.com/BILLatDivineCreationsPhoto He was taunting me. He's all like "come at me bro!" So I'm like "I'm coming at you bro!" And he's like "hey, fuck you" *chomp*. Then I killed it. I win. ^^^ you have truly taken being a lazy fuck to a new level tonight, an MRE. WOW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reggtoby Posted April 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2012 Right on man. Good luck on those. Ive got 3months left here at wyotech before im done with school. And then take my big final. But ill shoot ya a email if any question arise. Now get to studying ahahah Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reggtoby Posted May 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 Now thinking about this. The oem gas tank might be in my way. Is it easier to get a fuel cell and tie it in to the frame else where. Could someone show me how you all have delt with this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StreetMetalBen Posted May 9, 2012 Report Share Posted May 9, 2012 OP, If you have the room, i always try and push our customers into going bag-on-bar. Everything Clnshvnndraggn is telling you is awesome advice! depending on the link style you go, you will have gas tank issues. 3 links are the best way to solve that, as long as you use quality products. If your not going to ever run a large width wheel, then you can get away with a parallel link, with a watts. DO NOT DO A REVERSE LINK!! It sound like the easiest way to not have to deal with the tank, but it will give you alot of headaches in the future, along with lots of possible safety problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reggtoby Posted May 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2012 I know about not going with a reverse link. Ive seen the down falls to that. And the tank issue is going to be one thing im figuring out. You think a triangular 4link to miss the tank and also keep everything straight. Im plannning on going bigger on the rim siZe in the future. so im adding that into the picture now. I wont be able to do a big build due to i graduate at the end of june so the time constraint is hold me back from alot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StreetMetalBen Posted May 10, 2012 Report Share Posted May 10, 2012 FBI use to sell a bolt on s10 link that worked great while leaving your tank in the same spot. maybe try and find pictures of that link and get some ideas from it! Or check out Partsandgo.com, they are having a great deal right now on a universal 4 link for a really good price! Spend LOTS and LOTS of time doing research on airbags, and all kinds of suspension setups. If you do it wrong, trust me you wont like it!! My first mini... well lets just say I sold it off real quick after the first bag setup!! A great combination for a reliable setup that you will be happy with is -Bag-Over-Bar in the rear on a triangulated 6 link -SHOCKS SHOCKS SHOCKS!! (i know so many people that say "you don't need shocks, my truck rides great!" ... trust me, spend the extra few $$$ and run them!!!!! - ( 1/2' valves (you can always reduce down to slow the lift/drop. But you cant speed up your travel if you go 3/8 or 1/4 valves) You MUST run 8 valves!!! And not because you can do side-to-side, because it "locks" the air into each corner. It drastically reduces the amount of body roll and the swaying the bags are known for. -Gauges are NOT necessary, and are most of the time not worth the hassle. You can run them if you like, but if your tight on cash, skip the gauges because you wont look at them after 2 weeks of driving. -2 smaller compressors are better than 1 larger compressor.They are meant to work together, so they last longer. -You DON'T need 500 gallons of air... not unless your lifting a school buss! 2 3 gallons or 1 5 gallon tank will be just fine for most trucks. Or a 7 gallon is OK for the larger trucks. But you never really need more that 7 gallons on any daily street vehicle. -Pre-load your tanks with shop air when going from 0psi on up. It will make them last 10 times longer. Its not mandatory, but just makes them work a little easier. -And lastly, always carry an emergency air pack. A couple feet of line, some quick couplings, a valve, and maybe even a bag. This is just my 2 cents and I'm sure I missed a bunch but its the little things like this that makes life on bags just a little bit easier! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reggtoby Posted May 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2012 Right on man. Thanks for the information guys its helping me out alot with figuring all this up. Got most things sorted out as of today. Im not buying any pre configured link kit or something likebig that. For the class im in, i have tobuild all ofthe the back half and links myself. But ii am doingnot lower bar to frame with a triangular 4link. I knew from the get go id be running shocks on my truck as a damper. running a second compressor right now is not really in the picture due to i bought a viair 480c already. Rear will be Slam ss8, 5 gal tank, 8smc valves, 1/2in would be nice but had go with 3/8in. Things will get changed will happen later down the road. When my money flow is a little better after i graduate. Prolly have my parts next week and start work end of next week. Should be fun little project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StreetMetalBen Posted May 18, 2012 Report Share Posted May 18, 2012 Right on man. Thanks for the information guys its helping me out alot with figuring all this up. Got most things sorted out as of today. Im not buying any pre configured link kit or something likebig that. For the class im in, i have tobuild all ofthe the back half and links myself. But ii am doingnot lower bar to frame with a triangular 4link. I knew from the get go id be running shocks on my truck as a damper. running a second compressor right now is not really in the picture due to i bought a viair 480c already. Rear will be Slam ss8, 5 gal tank, 8smc valves, 1/2in would be nice but had go with 3/8in. Things will get changed will happen later down the road. When my money flow is a little better after i graduate. Prolly have my parts next week and start work end of next week. Should be fun little project. Thats the way to do it! Build it, dont buy it! Where are you gettin gall of your links parts from? I can supply you with everything you need to piece it together! Check my signature for where to go! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reggtoby Posted May 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2012 I got 5/8in weld in and 5/8in studed weld in bushing ,for the top links, from pete and jakes my school gets a discount from them. As for the bottom bushings i went with replacement S10 leaf spring bushing that will be fitted in a chromoly tube thats welded to the link bars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StreetMetalBen Posted May 19, 2012 Report Share Posted May 19, 2012 5/8ths will be just fine if your not going bag-over-bar. minimum bag-over is 3/4, screwed all the way in. And standard HREW 1 1/4 is fine for link bars if you are using chrome moly weld in bungs. But if you are tapping the bars, then you need DOM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.