JR2011bu Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 I'm planning on doing the big three upgrade on my car tomorrow, so i went down to one of the local shops and asked the guy for some ANL fuses and fuse holders. He says what are you needing these for. I explained.......etc etc... He said that i should run a battery isoaltor so that my batteries dont drain each other. Is this a good idea? I have read that they are good but only if you plan on playing stereo while car off. Which i hardly do. Also should i run second battery(pos) straight to alt(pos) and ground battery in trunk, or run starter battery(pos) to trunk battery(pos) and ground there? or run starter battery(pos) to trunk battery(pos) and start batt(neg) to trunk batt(neg)? so many options out there, so many different ways i have seen people do there big three, but which is safest? I'm running stock alt for now its a 120a alt i believe but i haven't checked. I know there are several threads here with answers but just haven't found something that sounds too reassuring. This is my daily driver and i can't really take too many risks as i got rid of my second car. I'll be using the stock battery, and sitting a Kinetik HC1800 in the trunk as the second battery and of course all wiring will be 1/0 gauge wire. Also what amp fuse should i use 150 or 250? all info is appreciated. Quote Under Construction 2011 Malibu 1LT 12k DDM Tuning HID's 55W Soundstream 6.5 components(front) Inffinitty Kappa 6x9's (rear) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hifonics Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 Most people run their batteries in parallel. So + to +, - to - (front to back). You'll want to get two similar (if not the same) batteries so that they do not discharge eachother. I hope someone with more experience can chime in for you... Quote 2010 F150 FX4-18" AA Mayhem-Crescendo BC3500d-Pioneer GM-D9500F 4-channel-2 Crescendo FT1 -2 Crescendo Neo Forte 6.5 -Pioneer AVH-P3300BT-6000K HID Headlights/Fog lights-All LED interior lighting-20% tint on front windows, 1% rear windows, 5% windshield strip-Big3 (XSFlex 0ga) -DC Power 270XP -Group 65 NorthStar AGM battery Coming soon/plans: -Build log-Blacked out mirror reflectors-Tinted tails/3rd brake light Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
appi Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 always use fuses 150 will be fine Quote JBL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon_4078 Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 The battery iso is not a terrible idea, maybe unnecessary though batteries are not my strength. I guess my question for you is how many watts are you gonna be putting out realistically? The fuse will depend on that... Quote "The only man who makes no mistakes is the man who never does anything" -Theodore Roosevelt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JR2011bu Posted April 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 As far as RMS watts around 1700 I would say. I'm running a hifonics hrs1700.1 mono and a kicker zx350.4 but I doubt that the brutus is actually doing 1700 so that's why I say 1700 total. Quote Under Construction 2011 Malibu 1LT 12k DDM Tuning HID's 55W Soundstream 6.5 components(front) Inffinitty Kappa 6x9's (rear) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 (edited) Skip the isolator. Wiring: Big 3-ad wires to what is already there, keep factory wires in place. 2nd battery-hook + of both batteries together. The - you can hook together or just use a good ground in the back near your 2nd battery. Edited April 25, 2012 by MrSkippyJ Quote F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ballen194 Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 Brutus' do rated. As far as I know batt isolators are a bad idea. Quote 98 Isuzu Rodeo Pioneer Deh-6300ub SUBS*Upcoming* SSA Xcon 18 4th order AMP Banda 3500 Mids/Highs Pioneer EQ Clarion EQS746 ETC. Two 1/0 run's KnuKoncepts 1/0 big 3 Shuriken BT-100 under the hood Shuriken BT-120 in the back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 The battery iso is not a terrible idea, maybe unnecessary though batteries are not my strength. I guess my question for you is how many watts are you gonna be putting out realistically? The fuse will depend on that... isolators are a terrible thing to install in your system. unless you plan on going to a fancy car show where you're going to play music for hours on end with your car off, then you dont need one. isolators cut off your battery from getting charged by the alternator. thus draining the shit (and dropping the voltage like crazy) out of the battery. then once it drops down to like 11v or 10v or whatever, the isolator will switch the alt charge back on on the battery. alternators fucking hate charging dead batteries. they're made to keep them topped off. basically harming your alternator and shortening its life. and not to mention the voltage drop from the uncharged battery will harm the amp, making it produce more heat and less power than it can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JR2011bu Posted April 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 Thank you everyone for the replies and suggestions. So I'm thinking this is what I'm gonna end up doing. Bit three with a 250a fuse block all 1/0 gauge wire. Second batt: one run of 1/0gauge from starter batt(+) to trunk batt(+), then ground the 2nd batt in trunk. Quote Under Construction 2011 Malibu 1LT 12k DDM Tuning HID's 55W Soundstream 6.5 components(front) Inffinitty Kappa 6x9's (rear) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ballen194 Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 Thank you everyone for the replies and suggestions. So I'm thinking this is what I'm gonna end up doing. Bit three with a 250a fuse block all 1/0 gauge wire. Second batt: one run of 1/0gauge from starter batt(+) to trunk batt(+), then ground the 2nd batt in trunk. Sounds good to me. No objections. Quote 98 Isuzu Rodeo Pioneer Deh-6300ub SUBS*Upcoming* SSA Xcon 18 4th order AMP Banda 3500 Mids/Highs Pioneer EQ Clarion EQS746 ETC. Two 1/0 run's KnuKoncepts 1/0 big 3 Shuriken BT-100 under the hood Shuriken BT-120 in the back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.