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Everything posted by MrSkippyJ

  1. self taping screws are the worst thing you can use for a ground. Please tell me you aren't seriously telling him to add 3 screws to make it a good ground.
  2. I am super unfamiliar with that amp, if I were to guess though it would be something on the input side of the adjustments. That being said I have looked at the manual for about 5 minutes total. Speaking with Audiocontrol could help for sure. Is 52 the max with the gain all the way down?
  3. I just went and read some of the instructions for your LOC. Turns out it isn’t a LOC at all really. Your headunit doesn’t have an output at all really. All it does is send a message to the amp and tells it what to do. That’s where the PAC AmpPRO intercepts the message and turn it into audio. There is no conversion from high to low level. Still doesn’t explain why you didn’t get a signal but very much explains why you can turn the head unit up to max with no distortion. And then your amp...lots of settings in side that thing. Start playing around in the amp’s settings (with no speakers hooked up) until you get a signal on the DD-1 to see what is going on. You have so many controls on the amp I’m guess one of those is the issue. It doesn’t appear the the PAC device has any output adjustments except to shut off the factory EQ.
  4. Just to be clear, a 1500 watt amp should output 1500 watts, if it doesn't its a shitty amp. A 1500 watt subwoofer should be able to handle 1500 watts continuously without an issue. There are a few reasons subs are "under rated" though. -Part of that is because of impedance rise and the dynamics of music. Because of those an amp won't output full power all the time. Your 2500 watt amp might average a 1500 watt output and your 1500 watts subs will probably be fine. Most quality speakers can handle burst wattage quite a bit higher than RMS ratings. But if you start playing tones for a long time (which would be weird but hey) and if you happen to be near your rated impedance level and are shoving 1k extra watts into a system that wasn't designed to handle that much extra continuous power then you might run into a problem. Not a very typical scenario though, most people don't blast tones continuously. -Part of it is some people really know what they are doing when it comes to design of the system and use of the system. Just because some people can run 2x power to a sub doesn't mean everyone can do it. I tend to stick pretty close to RMS ratings though. I'm pretty good at paying attention to how hot my subs get and the smell, but I am terrible at enclosure design. I build within manufacturer's specs for enclosure and stick to RMS ratings of the sub. Not exact ratings mind you, but close. I ran 1.5K to my 8s that were rated at 600 each. -Part of it is manufacturers rate a subs RMS based on how most people will use the equipment. Again, just because some people can run 2x power doesn't mean that works for everyone. RMS ratings are safe for what most people are going to do.
  5. Just make absolutely sure everything is set to off/0/flat. EQs, any kind of volume adjustments (speed for example), and balance/fade.
  6. You can check everything with the probes of the DD-1 plugged into the amp outputs. Zero reason to check everything at each point. Set the amp and LOC gain all the way down Then check max clean output of the headunit at the amp with the 0db track (which very well could be max). Then with the headunit at that volume setting and using the 0db track turn the LOC gain up until you get distortion. Then do the amp using a -5 or -10db track. Done. Super simple, don't make it more difficult than you need too.
  7. no shit you can do it like that. he said he did that. He was confused why that way showed no distortion all the way up at 62 but at the amp it showed distortion sooner at 49. So I suggested the other way to check the head units distortion that is also mentioned in the DD-1 instructions. What's important is what is coming out of the amp. If it says it's distorting at 49 then that is the level you use.
  8. If it was me in this case, I would check everything at the speaker outputs of the amp. Use the 0db test tones to test everything in line prior to the amp, then use the either the -5,-10, or -15 tracks (probably the -5 or -10) to set the output of the amp. Just make sure the gain is as low as possible when checking everything upsteam of the amp. Making sure the headunit output is as clean as possible is possibly the most important thing.
  9. Do the dedicated tweeter amp. If you parallel the tweeters with the other 2 speakers, the tweeters will get the bulk of the power. If you run the amp 4 channel, the tweet will be getting more than 2x RMS and your other speakers will be missing out on lots of power.
  10. You are right, batteries aren't the right tool for that. Batteries are helpful when your alternator can't provide enough to keep up with the demand. If you need 400amps at 14 volts and your alt is good for 300 then you need to add extra power. Caps don't help much there but batteries can. If your alt keeps up and all you need to worry about is the fluctuations before the alt responds to the demand then caps make sense. Of course you can add caps to a system with extra batteries to help the alt as well. Of course at some point your alternator will be charging all the extra batteries and trying to run the stereo so your voltage will continue to get worse and worse.
  11. Not that it will make much of an audible difference, but I think you would be surprised what your voltage is actually doing if you had a meter that could show quick voltage changes. Something like the SMD or a DMM that had min/max settings. Again, not sure it would be an audible difference but what you are seeing is a limitation of how fast meters keep up with voltage changes. Of course I think you know your voltage fluctuates, why else are considering super caps.
  12. With 4 SVC you can get 1, 4, or 16.
  13. RE is the physical characteristic of the voice coil. The 4ohm rating is more or less an average impedance rating. The RE value is NOT what you need to look at.
  14. one is just fine. Most sub channels are mono anyway. I'm not sure how it would hurt it to run a Y adapter but one is just fine and there won't be any signal loss.
  15. you won't hurt anything by only plugging one side into the INPUT side, with the exception of the rare times the bass channel is actually recorded in stereo. As far as plugging one into the OUTPUT side, i'm not sure what happens.
  16. get a y addapter and plug both signals into the INPUT side
  17. http://download.phoenixphorum.com/Manuals/Amplifiers/MS_MAC_Amps/ms275_lg.pdf
  18. i understand. just stating it isn't what I would personally use.
  19. you can try it. id rather have better glue than hot glue holding my enclosure in place.
  20. ooh. That might work. what is the melting point for hot glue? If it's on the backside of the panel just use some real glue.
  21. put the meter on resistance and touch the leads together. subtract that amount from what you read.
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