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MrSkippyJ

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Everything posted by MrSkippyJ

  1. What is your volume setting on the head unit when you set your gains?
  2. I had it in a couple different vehicles. The first was maybe 3 feet, second was probably closer to 6 feet. As far as fuse, if it isn't popping you are fine as long as it is not higher than the wires rating. Also, my amp would be hot without playing any music as well. Forgot to mention that earlier.
  3. My t1500 bdcp was always on the verge of being to hot to touch. I contacted RF and they said it was fine. According to them its just how efficient the heat sinks are. I ran it basically just like you are (0g to distro and 4g to amp) for years without an issue. I wouldn't worry about it if I were you.
  4. That’s really old tech my dude. I had a 306.2 when it was already old tech and had issues at times getting to connect. You might just need to get a new processor.
  5. It doesn't matter. It's a parallel circuit either way so to the alternator sees them as one. That being said, one wire from alt to batt1 then from batt1 to batt2 means you have to run less wire. Edit: Assuming your wire can carry enough current.
  6. Sorry I wasn't very clear. I didn't mean to run them that way, I was asking about testing them both connected the same way. If you are only checking the Sky High speakers when you bridge the amp then it could be something weird happening when you bridge the amp. I was just suggesting to connect them unbridged to either the front or rear outputs to see if the sound improves. I have never had any luck when it comes to bridging amps and running mids and highs. Last time I tried I had a 4 channel RF amp and it sounded like ass when I bridged it. I connected the speakers to the front channels and it sounded just fine.
  7. A lot of stuff to read, but have you tried a comparison running both sets on the amplifier without it being bridged? I realize the output level for the sky high will be pretty low since they are 8 ohm but I wonder if they sound better this way.
  8. It could be a lot of things. I like the idea of running something directly to the amp to see if the issue goes away. If it doesn't go away, my guess is that polarity is off somewhere.
  9. The only opinion I would add is to fuse the run from the alt to the battery(s). I have always fused my alt runs as close to the battery as possible. It's still a live wire when connected to the battery, I have never quite understood the reasoning behind leaving this fuse out.
  10. Good deal man. I’d add some fuses on any + lead connected to the battery but that’s just me. Solid looking over all though!
  11. looks pretty good. only 2 things pop out at me. Did you fuse that wiring and how is that battery mounted?
  12. It's your amp, how willing are you to take a chance is really what you have to answer. Nobody else has a horse in the race so it's up to you. Are you ok buying a new amp if it doesn't work out?
  13. What kind of results are you getting? Any particular reason you are focusing on a ratio?
  14. Yeah I doubt you’ll hear it unless you are in town. the fronts are MMats 6.5” and the rears are MMats 6x9. I had to cut out some of the speaker pod in the front the get these to fit and cut some of the adapter in the lids for the 6x9
  15. I actually had to run the rear speakers wires to mine, the regular road glide doesn’t have rear speakers. But it came with the Rockford kit. the MMats soind pretty good, no real complaints. They sound A LOT better than the rockfords that came with the kit. as for the new Rockford subwoofer kit, at over $2k it’s a bit much for my taste.
  16. Looks nice man! I had a bit of an easier time since my Road Glide's fairing has an easier place to mount an amp. I did the rockford bag lid kit but I am running all MMats speakers in my bike. I left my tour pack empty though, mostly because I really only use in on longer trips.
  17. OOH i gotcha now. You might be right, it might be limited to 1k and 40. You said both headunits gave you similar resuts using a 4k tone, right? On a side note, I would stick to -5db overlap at most for mids and highs. -10db is a LOT of overlap for those.
  18. It really depends on what that wire is. Just to be clear, when you say you see distortion at a lower volume (16ish i think you said) are you saying there is a blip at that particular volume or does the distortion stay there until you get to that higher volume lever (36 I think you said) and then go away? If it's just a blip at a certain volume level, I don't think that is very unusual but I could very easily be wrong.
  19. I may have missed it, did you say when you test directly from the headunit the issue still exists?
  20. You shouldn't have any wild discrepancies like that. Did you check that directly from your headunit or through the amps?
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