MrSkippyJ

Most component set passive crossovers don’t include a high pass for the midwoofer. I would check to make sure but it’s likely you need to high pass the amp’s output.

what he said!!

Have you tried without the bass knob connected at all?

when do you hear this? Does it change with volume?

god damn. It’s so pretty.

damn, that is nice. i bet it was a pretty penny.

I'm guessing they play it WAY up for TV. Actually, there is no way they don't, I bet hes a blast to be around off camera. Still enjoy the show though!

That dudes TV personality is annoying but I like the show anyways and the cars they build!

I don't know man. We are now officially way beyond what I understand! lol

I am super unfamiliar with that amp, if I were to guess though it would be something on the input side of the adjustments. That being said I have looked at the manual for about 5 minutes total. Speaking with Audiocontrol could help for sure. Is 52 the max with the gain all the way down?

I just went and read some of the instructions for your LOC. Turns out it isn’t a LOC at all really. Your headunit doesn’t have an output at all really. All it does is send a message to the amp and tells it what to do. That’s where the PAC AmpPRO intercepts the message and turn it into audio. There is no conversion from high to low level. Still doesn’t explain why you didn’t get a signal but very much explains why you can turn the head unit up to max with no distortion. And then your amp...lots of settings in side that thing. Start playing around in the amp’s settings (with no speakers hooked up) until you get a signal on the DD-1 to see what is going on. You have so many controls on the amp I’m guess one of those is the issue. It doesn’t appear the the PAC device has any output adjustments except to shut off the factory EQ.

👍

Just make absolutely sure everything is set to off/0/flat. EQs, any kind of volume adjustments (speed for example), and balance/fade.

You can check everything with the probes of the DD-1 plugged into the amp outputs. Zero reason to check everything at each point. Set the amp and LOC gain all the way down Then check max clean output of the headunit at the amp with the 0db track (which very well could be max). Then with the headunit at that volume setting and using the 0db track turn the LOC gain up until you get distortion. Then do the amp using a -5 or -10db track. Done. Super simple, don't make it more difficult than you need too.

no shit you can do it like that. he said he did that. He was confused why that way showed no distortion all the way up at 62 but at the amp it showed distortion sooner at 49. So I suggested the other way to check the head units distortion that is also mentioned in the DD-1 instructions. What's important is what is coming out of the amp. If it says it's distorting at 49 then that is the level you use.

If it was me in this case, I would check everything at the speaker outputs of the amp. Use the 0db test tones to test everything in line prior to the amp, then use the either the -5,-10, or -15 tracks (probably the -5 or -10) to set the output of the amp. Just make sure the gain is as low as possible when checking everything upsteam of the amp. Making sure the headunit output is as clean as possible is possibly the most important thing.

Fucking beautiful man.

Klipsch is nice stuff, can’t stand their subs personally though! But those 820s are the shit. Can’t say I have ever heard audio control home stuff but I’d be shocked if they were less than amazing. That’s going to be intense when it’s done, a lot of speakers in a tiny space!

isn't that the same shop that did pimp my ride?

That's crazy man. looking forward to what else you come up with!

Which amp do you have? You can always just get an RCA style knob as well.

That would be the way I would go if I am ever in the market for a Diamond Boxx. Of course if I am ever in the market, not having that option won't stop me!

yeah you knew that from the get go. not sure why you were even looking for an XS.

But they aren't trying to sell replacement batteries for everyone. Their market is aftermarket (stereo, racing, etc...). That F series probably isn't the most common there, and when something fits already then why make the same thing that just fits a bit better? Nobody is forcing you to buy XS, just don't buy one.

The thing about over powering a speaker is you know what to look for already and know when you have reached your limits. Lots of people who "over power" speakers know how to build it to handle that kind of power. It's really tough to give a number that your setup and you are capable of handling.