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Everything posted by MrSkippyJ

  1. It could be a lot of things. I like the idea of running something directly to the amp to see if the issue goes away. If it doesn't go away, my guess is that polarity is off somewhere.
  2. The only opinion I would add is to fuse the run from the alt to the battery(s). I have always fused my alt runs as close to the battery as possible. It's still a live wire when connected to the battery, I have never quite understood the reasoning behind leaving this fuse out.
  3. Good deal man. I’d add some fuses on any + lead connected to the battery but that’s just me. Solid looking over all though!
  4. looks pretty good. only 2 things pop out at me. Did you fuse that wiring and how is that battery mounted?
  5. It's your amp, how willing are you to take a chance is really what you have to answer. Nobody else has a horse in the race so it's up to you. Are you ok buying a new amp if it doesn't work out?
  6. What kind of results are you getting? Any particular reason you are focusing on a ratio?
  7. Yeah I doubt you’ll hear it unless you are in town. the fronts are MMats 6.5” and the rears are MMats 6x9. I had to cut out some of the speaker pod in the front the get these to fit and cut some of the adapter in the lids for the 6x9
  8. I actually had to run the rear speakers wires to mine, the regular road glide doesn’t have rear speakers. But it came with the Rockford kit. the MMats soind pretty good, no real complaints. They sound A LOT better than the rockfords that came with the kit. as for the new Rockford subwoofer kit, at over $2k it’s a bit much for my taste.
  9. Looks nice man! I had a bit of an easier time since my Road Glide's fairing has an easier place to mount an amp. I did the rockford bag lid kit but I am running all MMats speakers in my bike. I left my tour pack empty though, mostly because I really only use in on longer trips.
  10. One amp is so much easier. why do you want to use 2?
  11. OOH i gotcha now. You might be right, it might be limited to 1k and 40. You said both headunits gave you similar resuts using a 4k tone, right? On a side note, I would stick to -5db overlap at most for mids and highs. -10db is a LOT of overlap for those.
  12. It really depends on what that wire is. Just to be clear, when you say you see distortion at a lower volume (16ish i think you said) are you saying there is a blip at that particular volume or does the distortion stay there until you get to that higher volume lever (36 I think you said) and then go away? If it's just a blip at a certain volume level, I don't think that is very unusual but I could very easily be wrong.
  13. I may have missed it, did you say when you test directly from the headunit the issue still exists?
  14. You shouldn't have any wild discrepancies like that. Did you check that directly from your headunit or through the amps?
  15. I think you can, any particular reason you want/need too?
  16. I can't imagine why there would be a difference in output based only on using any of the 3 tones you mentioned. Your headunit output shouldn't be different, you need to find the maximum clean output and use that setting. If you are using a sub-out you need to find it's max clean setting as well. Use that volume, set your EQ to flat and crossovers to off or max settings, then pick one of the 3 tones you mentioned. 40hz is pretty standard and what most people use, but 35 or 50 shouldn't have an affect on where your gain is set.
  17. Nah, rod wave doesn’t look like your friend
  18. The bends probably aren’t too bad. What I would be worried about is the top and bottom of your port are different lengths.
  19. just to add to everything said here, you can absolutely connect the negative side of your amps to the batteries.
  20. Not 100% sure about this but if you are running a separate alternator with a different charging voltage then really the only thing you need to do is make sure none of your stock electrical is connected to that alternator. I'm pretty sure you can use the same grounds for both systems. Don't take my word for that though, wait till someone confirms it. Keep in mind, this is for systems that charge at different voltages, not small voltage differences across systems that charge at the same voltage. If you have 2 12v alternators then you don't have to separate them at all. Same with batteries, as long as they are the same type of battery (all AGM, lead acid, or lithium, etc...)
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