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UBL:Lexus IS-F Sound System install - Featured in Performance Auto & Sound Mag (page 6)


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I think i am sticking with plan C! Instead of modding the "plan A and B" box to fit the 15, i said "f#$K it" and built it all nevw from scratch. This time i used all 1" with exception of the bottom board (due to fitment issues). Its ok though, the bottom board is on the floor of the trunk so its plenty thick. I will probably do some glassing as well. This will be a LONG build so hang tight i cant do it all in one day!

FYI: all RF amps and hopefully 3 sets of T5 components to go with this...

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Time to cut the port. It has 51" of area. It is 8.5x6" and 14" long. Tuning 38hz.

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The hole on the left, obviously the woofer, the square in the middle is where the ski-hole is......and the rectangle, obviously is the port. It don't really matter where the ski hole is because i am cutting all that metal out. I just wanted a reference so i knew where i was at.

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before you tell me the woofer is off-center, let me tell you that i did that on purpose. Due to the way the trunk is and where the baffle meets the metal behind the seat, i needed to raise it as high as i could. Also, with that angle, i needed to make sure the magnet wasnt going to hit the bottom of the box. DSC00917.jpgDSC00918.jpgDSC00919.jpgIMG_0918.jpgIMG_0919.jpgIMG_0920.jpgIMG_0921.jpgIMG_0922.jpgIMG_0923.jpgIMG_0925.jpgIMG_0926.jpgDSC00912.jpg

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I will cut JUST enough metal to let the port and woofer breath into the cabin. Then i will seal the cabin from the front of the baffle........BASSSSSS!!!!

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Tested it today but there is no way to "temp" a box in with an SMD and 3500watts on it. It just wants to pull the box apart. I tell you what though, the tone is DEEP and powerful.....great range. And that was on the BENCH. Wait till i get me some cabin gain.

once it is fitted and the hole is proper.....i will pull the box out AGAIN and do my bracing and get the bolts to hold the sub in properly. Then i can finally put it in and try it out!! Its all about prep work here. I can't rush it.

One more thing - reminder of what i already said. The sub is off center for a reason. There is a support bar at the bottom of the opening that is about 3" high. I raised the sub up as high as i could to clear that. Its still not fully cleared but its not too bad.

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I usually do my best cuts old-school style but i hit some layered metal and had to put the snips down.

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thats right ya'll the old jig saw with metal blade. Made SHORT work of the task at hand.

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This isn't a bad cut.....its just that panel is loose. When i attach it it will all line up perfectly. Just thought i would point that out since the one side looks bad and also i chipped it putting it in and out of the box during fitment. Anyway all the boards are indeed EVEN when attached :)

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thats all for today!!

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Time to add some T-nuts for the sub and threaded inserts for the plexi glass window.

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Its always good to have a template laying around!

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T-Nuts and Stainless Button Head screws will do the job

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1x1 strips

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an extra 1" frame around the back panel for extra support and also a nice landing for the weather stripping i am using to seal it off.

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more support for the roof of the box. It should help make it even more rigid. This will all be glassed in as well for even more strength.

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Rounded over of course

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The bottom panel still has a gap but it IS NOT attached yet. I cannot attach it until it is IN the car. Thats the last step. So if you see a gap, SORRY. lol

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this is EASILY $30 worth of scrap

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Yes, I KNOW the rear piece sticks up above. I designed it like that. I am cutting a reglet (channel, groove) to hold the LED's which will set the logo off that i am putting on the glass. I am using an F logo and i am lighting it up blue to match the car.

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3" o.c. on all the bolts

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threaded inserts and grade 8 bolts

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time for the threaded inserts

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BOTTOM BOARD IS STILL NOT ATTACHED...NOT TILL IT IS IN THE CAR...HENCE THE GAP.


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