Trey_Dog650 Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 i know imma forum noob... but i got the same amplifier.. ive got the big 3 done with knu flex 0ga. and a kinetik hc2000 under the hood. stock alt. no extra batts. and i dont see under 12.5 except on notes right at the LPF >65hz then it starts to get low... but my lights dont dim, electrical is fine.. IS THAT WHAT I WANT!! no... i want a better alternator, i want 2 more kinetiks. but thats about 1500$. just giving you my situation and some possible solutions that wont kill the wallet.. knu flex 0 gauge 4 dollars a foot i bought 12ft. the hc 2k you can get on audiosavings for like 280$. 2 runs of 0 gauge wont do anything if the juice isnt flowing either. start with under the hood battery and big 3.. what do you think about the amp? are you happy with it? i have done the big 3 but i used 1/0 gauge from home depot electrical wire. i used 1/0 welding cable to run from my battery to my amp. a guy who owns a local car audio shop took a look at the wire i used to run my big 3 and said it's no good b/c there are only like 8 big strands instead of hundreds of strands as there is in audio and welding cable. so i am going to redo my big 3 with 1/0 welding cable. damn must have been a bitch to get that wire where you wanted it. imo if its already done dont change it. nothing wrong with what you have. the only difference in strand is how flexible it is. i think you should start with an extra battery and see how that works out Quote 13 Kia Forte Build! 07 Hyundai Accent Build ***Super Seller*** N8ball2013 And then he gets to say ok all you guys were right. im sorry for being a dummy poo poo head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 I ran a 3500 on my stock 140a alt and never went below 13.2v at the inputs on the amp. Measure your voltage at the alternator, then measure again at the amp and see how much voltage drop you are getting. when you say 3500, are you talking about a battery? no he was running 3500 watts rms Yup. Crescendo 3500. Quote ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvcincy Posted June 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 i know imma forum noob... but i got the same amplifier.. ive got the big 3 done with knu flex 0ga. and a kinetik hc2000 under the hood. stock alt. no extra batts. and i dont see under 12.5 except on notes right at the LPF >65hz then it starts to get low... but my lights dont dim, electrical is fine.. IS THAT WHAT I WANT!! no... i want a better alternator, i want 2 more kinetiks. but thats about 1500$. just giving you my situation and some possible solutions that wont kill the wallet.. knu flex 0 gauge 4 dollars a foot i bought 12ft. the hc 2k you can get on audiosavings for like 280$. 2 runs of 0 gauge wont do anything if the juice isnt flowing either. start with under the hood battery and big 3.. what do you think about the amp? are you happy with it? i have done the big 3 but i used 1/0 gauge from home depot electrical wire. i used 1/0 welding cable to run from my battery to my amp. a guy who owns a local car audio shop took a look at the wire i used to run my big 3 and said it's no good b/c there are only like 8 big strands instead of hundreds of strands as there is in audio and welding cable. so i am going to redo my big 3 with 1/0 welding cable. damn must have been a bitch to get that wire where you wanted it. imo if its already done dont change it. nothing wrong with what you have. the only difference in strand is how flexible it is. i think you should start with an extra battery and see how that works out Ok, I will do that. I was told I need to get an isolator and a capacitor. does this sound right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aleroking Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 do the big three and replace the stock batt with a deep cycle and put a deep cycle in the back too and youll be fine. Quote 2 fi btl 18s on 2 crescendo 3500s walled in a 2dr 2000 alero build log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141663-2-walled-btls-18-on-7k-in-a-2000-2dr-alero/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 You don't need either. Just make sure you have the same batteries everywhere, wire + to +, and ground the - and that's it Quote ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aleroking Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 You don't need either. Just make sure you have the same batteries everywhere, wire + to +, and ground the - and that's it x2 a cap wont do anything and an isolator only does anything when the car is turned off.just isolates the front batt so you can totally drain the rear ones and still have power to start the car. ive noticed a decent difference from running negative runs from front to back also. all the batts dont have to be the exact same but stick with the same brands. just get the biggest you can up front and then a group 31 or close in back. Quote 2 fi btl 18s on 2 crescendo 3500s walled in a 2dr 2000 alero build log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141663-2-walled-btls-18-on-7k-in-a-2000-2dr-alero/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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