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Posted

I'm tuned in!! Love to see how it turns out. :popcorn:

sig-1.jpg

Build v1 15" Skar VVX (custom ported box) w/1.2k Sundown ampBuild v2 18" DC XL x2 (custom ported box) w/4.5k Skar amp

Build v3.3 destruction and re-construction time!

Posted

Hmm so what happens if I can't get it up to 45? I'm having problems getting it even to 40 hz. I'm at 37 now. I don't think I can budge at all in the width cause I've only got a quarter inch or so between the subs as it is. I'll play with it but I'm not so sure about getting it up anymore!

Posted

Ok scratch that i can get more out but im gonna have to switch the format a bit. Ill have to rotate the subs to the sides and the middle will be the pirted section. Im at dinner but ill work on a design tonight. Ill aim for 45hz, but whats the lowest i should be at if i cant get to 45hz?

Posted

Ok here it is. I changed it up. I couldn't get a 45hz tune with that design. Not enough room to widen the port. But I did some rearranging and this is where I'm at! I think this is gonna work and I'm excited about it.

Torres calcs

Sealed

Sealed.jpg

Ported

Ported.jpg

Total with port

Totalwithport.jpg

Here's the design. I basically just rotated the sealed chambers to the sides and I get more ported and the ability to widen the port.

4thorderdesign2Cabinview.jpg

4thorderdesign2backview.jpg

Now the only question is, do I give myself more sealed area and mount the subs with the motor into the ported section, it gives me .36 cu ft more for both sealed chambers. But it also takes .72 cu ft away from the ported chambers. What do you guys think?

Posted (edited)

padding will not be needed around the box if the box is built right, just saying. if the box is rattling the toolbox, then the box is vibrating and needs bracing.

It's pretty heavy gauge steel. I'd honestly say it's about 3/16 to 1/4" thick. Ok maybe not 1/4" but it's a toughly built box. I'd hate to cut a side off, BUT I'll DO IT DAMN IT! I'm just being silly now! Sorry guys, I'm in love with my design and I want it to work!

Thats probably not steel, im guessing aluminum. Goodluck though man you seem excited about it so im all for it. Edited by bassface
Posted

Im not to sure about your design but i like your idea. One question though; since your willing to cut your cab anyways why not use more of the bed and get a cover for it?

padding will not be needed around the box if the box is built right, just saying. if the box is rattling the toolbox, then the box is vibrating and needs bracing.

Well this is my camping vehicle among other things that I do with it, so the bed has to be accessible easily. The truck box doesn't take up that much room, essentially makes it a standard bed truck. So I really need to keep it contained in there. Is there something specific you don't like about the design? Old one or new one?

It's pretty heavy gauge steel. I'd honestly say it's about 3/16 to 1/4" thick. Ok maybe not 1/4" but it's a toughly built box. I'd hate to cut a side off, BUT I'll DO IT DAMN IT! I'm just being silly now! Sorry guys, I'm in love with my design and I want it to work!

Thats probably not steel, im guessing aluminum. Goodluck though man you seem excited about it so im all for it.

You're actually probably right, aluminum, but either way it's pretty thick. Obviously aluminum isn't as strong as steel but it is still pretty strong. I am excited about this. I hope it works out.

Posted

Quick question, that I'm thinking about. Someone brought up sealing the sealed from the ported sections under the plexi. I know there are ways to do it, and I'm not 100% worried about that. However, my wonder is the flex possibilities. Is the 3/4" acrylic/plexi going to be stronger than wood or should I try and do a dual 3/4" panel to stiffen it up?

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