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New Fuses Keep Blowing


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Has anyone experiened blowing fuses after just buyin new ones? Earlier today I went to the "Shack" to pick up some fuses for my receiver thats rated at Slow-Blow 6.3A/250V. As soon I put one in and plug up the receiver it blows out. The problem I was having that when the power cord is moved it would turn off and on pending how I moved the cord to stay on. Could the problem be the relay?

THE GRADUATE 10:18:2007

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Fix that power lead NOW. Do not use that reciever until your lead is fixed. You do not mess around with broken leads, you ery well may get severely hurt and/or die.

It is also damaging your amplifier. When you connect power to your amplifier, you are getting what is called in-rush current. That is a large draw of current to fill caps etc etc. Pro Audio amplifiers have in-rush limiters to help prevent this, but home and car audio often does not. With that broken lead, your in-rush is being conducted through leads with far less conductive properties and far higher resistance than normal. This is a prime receipy for a burnt down house pie. Also, chances are your constant in-rush from connecting and disconnecting that lead may be blowing your fuse. It could also be a damaged internal component that is blowing the fuse.

tl:dr, FIX THAT LEAD NOW, fix the fuse problem later.

Cheers,

Mick

Work;
DiGiCo D1 Live / MIDAS Heratige 1000 / MIDAS Venice
Meyer Sound CQ-1's, CQ-2's, PSW-2's
RAMSA Monitor Amplifiers
P.Audio Monitors
BSS OMNIDRIVE and Soundweb
DBX 231 and Klark Teknik DN360 EQ's
RCF TT22A
RCF ART320

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Fix that power lead NOW. Do not use that reciever until your lead is fixed. You do not mess around with broken leads, you ery well may get severely hurt and/or die.

It is also damaging your amplifier. When you connect power to your amplifier, you are getting what is called in-rush current. That is a large draw of current to fill caps etc etc. Pro Audio amplifiers have in-rush limiters to help prevent this, but home and car audio often does not. With that broken lead, your in-rush is being conducted through leads with far less conductive properties and far higher resistance than normal. This is a prime receipy for a burnt down house pie. Also, chances are your constant in-rush from connecting and disconnecting that lead may be blowing your fuse. It could also be a damaged internal component that is blowing the fuse.

tl:dr, FIX THAT LEAD NOW, fix the fuse problem later.

Cheers,

Mick

Well I checked the +/- prongs on the power cord itself and they seem to be fine. How should I go about indentifying the Power Lead and fixing it?

THE GRADUATE 10:18:2007

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It sounds like a break within the actual cable itself. However, as you are mentioning that you are blowing a fuse constantly, I would also be checking for burns along the cable. It is a very real possibility that you have burnt through the cable itself. If a power lead is causing these kinds of problems and you have to move the cable to create a circuit, you will have to replace the lead. Is the lead fixed to the amp or is it an IEC type lead (Jug lead)?

Cheers,

Mick

Work;
DiGiCo D1 Live / MIDAS Heratige 1000 / MIDAS Venice
Meyer Sound CQ-1's, CQ-2's, PSW-2's
RAMSA Monitor Amplifiers
P.Audio Monitors
BSS OMNIDRIVE and Soundweb
DBX 231 and Klark Teknik DN360 EQ's
RCF TT22A
RCF ART320

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It sounds like a break within the actual cable itself. However, as you are mentioning that you are blowing a fuse constantly, I would also be checking for burns along the cable. It is a very real possibility that you have burnt through the cable itself. If a power lead is causing these kinds of problems and you have to move the cable to create a circuit, you will have to replace the lead. Is the lead fixed to the amp or is it an IEC type lead (Jug lead)?

Cheers,

Mick

Well I just checked the power wire there isnt burns in the cable except some minor/mild scrapes (not exposing the bare wire). The power cord is disconnectable and it has a connector that you may see on a PC board. It has a white/black wire from the cord into the connector which has 3 slots on it. 2 on each far end and a open slot in the middle. The piece that it connects to is the same way. Prongs on each far end and a open space in the middle.

THE GRADUATE 10:18:2007

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Please replace that lead as soon as possible. Faulty power leads are a major safety issue. That much I can tell you from experience. 240v + 10 amperes + me = not a good day. This may fix your fuse issue, however the amplifier itself may be damaged. Swing past the store and pick up a replacement lead and some fuses and test from there.

Cheers,

Mick

Work;
DiGiCo D1 Live / MIDAS Heratige 1000 / MIDAS Venice
Meyer Sound CQ-1's, CQ-2's, PSW-2's
RAMSA Monitor Amplifiers
P.Audio Monitors
BSS OMNIDRIVE and Soundweb
DBX 231 and Klark Teknik DN360 EQ's
RCF TT22A
RCF ART320

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