J R Posted July 4, 2012 Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 I have a friend with a Jeep that has a 5.7. I know you said you changed your plugs but he had the EXACT issue. It sounded completely the same. He changed his plugs and it was fine, so maybe coil packs, wires, ignition of some sort. If none of these similar sounds may come from a fried mass air flow sensor or the need to clean air filter/throttle induction pathways. Otherwise, I'm not sure. It doesn't sound like anything major mechanical is messed up. Sometimes with larger motors you see a somewhat similar issue when there are failures such as lifters, springs, push rods, maybe even valves sticking. ***2001 GMC 2500HD Regular Cab*** -Jensen 9312 Flip-Out -2 12 inch Pioneer Step-up Shallow Mounts -Kicker ZX750.1 for Lows -Pioneer 6.5 coax in the doors -Pioneer 4x6 coax in the pillars -Old School Alpine MRV-F250 for Mids/Highs ***1969 Camaro Z/28*** -500+ cubic inch 950hp BBC + 400-650 shot of Nitrous -Audio coming soon- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickass audio Posted July 4, 2012 Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 i think it was the wire harness touching the exhaust manfiold. it melted the insulation off one of the wires and it was shorting out a wire.exhaust smells normal. i turned it on and smacked the cat a couple times and heard some shit bouncing around in there so i think the cat is still good lol There's not supposed to be anything "bouncing around" in the catalytic converter... the catalysts should not move around in the housing because they can block the exit if they turn sideways. Read this: http://auto.howstuff...uestion4821.htm if you want more info on what they are. I would bring it to an exhaust shop immediately and have them look it over/test it. That's just me though... EDIT: "A totally clogged converter causes the engine to quit after a few minutes because of all the increased exhaust back pressure." if there are ceramic beads in the cat wont they move around when you hit the side of the cat? And of corse this fine piece of american shit has three cats lol.ill just go get a pressure gause and test the pressures before and after each cat i guess. but i really dont think its the cats becasue it would do it all the time. this only happens when i first get in to drive it when its been sitting. You do not have 3 cats on your exhaust. The first one that comes off the engine is called a resonator. This will help lower the sound of your engine by bouncing the same resonant frequency it produces from the exhaust pressure building up in the canister back toward it canceling out the frequency fairly well. Past that as you continue toward your exhaust tip is the long catalytic converter. This is what usually goes bad and can clog up and you should never hear these rattle when you hit them as if you hear them rattling that means that part of the "honeycomb" design for the catalytic converter has broken off inside the cat. If you continue past your catalytic converter you will find another resonator which will once again help reduce the engine noise of the exhaust on your engine. Sometimes if your cat is really bad you can get a smell of rotten eggs from the exhaust. When you rev up your engine to a high rpm (usually around 3000-5000) can you hear it backfiring or misfiring? Does your check engine light flash or stay solid with increased engine rpm's? If your check engine light is flashing when you rev the engine up it means you have a misfire problem and it may be as previously mentioned a bad crankshaft position sensor. In all honesty bro, save your money, take it to a shop to have the code read and see what is wrong with it. If anything see if they can clear the code (autozone/advance auto will only scan your code and tell you what is being reported, they will NOT clear the codes as it is illegal for them to do this, some private shops will do this for you though) and have it cleared if possible. See if the code returns when your check engine light comes back on as you rev the engine up at the place you are getting the OBD scanned at. There are so many factors into check engine lights that they are a pain to troubleshoot unless you are well experienced with engines and can be there in person to listen to it and feel what it is doing. Just having the retard light on the dashboard light up does not pinpoint the problem and half the time check engine codes are not very specific to the true culprit that is causing your problems. 2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redcorn245 Posted July 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 i think it was the wire harness touching the exhaust manfiold. it melted the insulation off one of the wires and it was shorting out a wire.exhaust smells normal. i turned it on and smacked the cat a couple times and heard some shit bouncing around in there so i think the cat is still good lol There's not supposed to be anything "bouncing around" in the catalytic converter... the catalysts should not move around in the housing because they can block the exit if they turn sideways. Read this: http://auto.howstuff...uestion4821.htm if you want more info on what they are. I would bring it to an exhaust shop immediately and have them look it over/test it. That's just me though... EDIT: "A totally clogged converter causes the engine to quit after a few minutes because of all the increased exhaust back pressure." if there are ceramic beads in the cat wont they move around when you hit the side of the cat? And of corse this fine piece of american shit has three cats lol.ill just go get a pressure gause and test the pressures before and after each cat i guess. but i really dont think its the cats becasue it would do it all the time. this only happens when i first get in to drive it when its been sitting. You do not have 3 cats on your exhaust. The first one that comes off the engine is called a resonator. This will help lower the sound of your engine by bouncing the same resonant frequency it produces from the exhaust pressure building up in the canister back toward it canceling out the frequency fairly well. Past that as you continue toward your exhaust tip is the long catalytic converter. This is what usually goes bad and can clog up and you should never hear these rattle when you hit them as if you hear them rattling that means that part of the "honeycomb" design for the catalytic converter has broken off inside the cat. If you continue past your catalytic converter you will find another resonator which will once again help reduce the engine noise of the exhaust on your engine. Sometimes if your cat is really bad you can get a smell of rotten eggs from the exhaust. When you rev up your engine to a high rpm (usually around 3000-5000) can you hear it backfiring or misfiring? Does your check engine light flash or stay solid with increased engine rpm's? If your check engine light is flashing when you rev the engine up it means you have a misfire problem and it may be as previously mentioned a bad crankshaft position sensor. In all honesty bro, save your money, take it to a shop to have the code read and see what is wrong with it. If anything see if they can clear the code (autozone/advance auto will only scan your code and tell you what is being reported, they will NOT clear the codes as it is illegal for them to do this, some private shops will do this for you though) and have it cleared if possible. See if the code returns when your check engine light comes back on as you rev the engine up at the place you are getting the OBD scanned at. There are so many factors into check engine lights that they are a pain to troubleshoot unless you are well experienced with engines and can be there in person to listen to it and feel what it is doing. Just having the retard light on the dashboard light up does not pinpoint the problem and half the time check engine codes are not very specific to the true culprit that is causing your problems. acutally i do have three cats on my jeep. there are two on the y pipe comming off the exhaust manifold and there is one in my midpipe. look up a y pipe for a 1999 jeep grand cherokee laredo. some of them have straight pipes for the whole y pipe and ome like mine have a cat on each arom of the y pipe. thats why if its my cat ill have to figure out wich one it is. but im leaning towards the coil packs its sounds like a misfire and a backfire when i try and pull out of the stalling Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redcorn245 Posted July 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 I have a friend with a Jeep that has a 5.7. I know you said you changed your plugs but he had the EXACT issue. It sounded completely the same. He changed his plugs and it was fine, so maybe coil packs, wires, ignition of some sort. If none of these similar sounds may come from a fried mass air flow sensor or the need to clean air filter/throttle induction pathways. Otherwise, I'm not sure. It doesn't sound like anything major mechanical is messed up. Sometimes with larger motors you see a somewhat similar issue when there are failures such as lifters, springs, push rods, maybe even valves sticking. yeah i think it might be the coil pack. im just going to take it in and have it monitored lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbake223 Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 hey so i got my focus fixed, not sure if you are still having problems with it, but some dude at autozone found a vacuum leak coming from my evap system, one of the hoses had gotten a hole melted into it and my purge valve was broken off too. bought a new high temp hose and clamps and he fixd it for me in the parking lot. check your evap system see hope that helps 02 Ford Focus ZX3 hatch 4-Infinity Kappa 682.9cf's DC Lvl 4 Hifonics BRZ 1200.1 @ 1 ohm Kicker Wires Rockford RCAs Future Upgrades Knu 1/0 XS Power D1200 80 mil audiotechnix B stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redcorn245 Posted July 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2012 hey so i got my focus fixed, not sure if you are still having problems with it, but some dude at autozone found a vacuum leak coming from my evap system, one of the hoses had gotten a hole melted into it and my purge valve was broken off too. bought a new high temp hose and clamps and he fixd it for me in the parking lot. check your evap system see hope that helps ill take a look for a leak thanks!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m.doza Posted July 28, 2012 Report Share Posted July 28, 2012 hey bud from what your video shows seems to me like a crank position sensor is bad (on top side of bellhousing) common problem with those jeeps.hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redcorn245 Posted August 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 hey bud from what your video shows seems to me like a crank position sensor is bad (on top side of bellhousing) common problem with those jeeps.hope this helps yeah i replaced that with no success lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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