fosgatefan821 Posted June 29, 2012 Report Share Posted June 29, 2012 i wouldnt ..like dc98hoe says they create resistance.. i just learned something as well. Quote 2007 Ford Ranger (ALL YET TO BE INSTALLED - DUE TO WORK SCHEDULES) K&N Performance Air Intake Massive Audio D2400 Mono Amplifier 2 Custom Built 8" Subwoofers in Ported Enclosure Pioneer AVH-P4400BH In Dash Double Din DVD Player (Video Bypassed) 4 - Pioneer TS-A6886R 6" X 8" 2 - SMD Heavy Duty Single ANL Fuse Blocks 2- Stinger SPP1200 Dry Cell Batteries JL AUDIO Interconnects 2/0 Gauge Big 3 ILL Customz 8 Spot Flat Lug Style Bolt Down Terminals ILL Customz 1/0 to 4 Gauge Power / Ground Reducers Factory Alternator __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ 2002 Cheverlot Monte Carlo SS - (Deceased) 2 - Rockford Fosgate Power 1501BD 1 - Rockford Fosgate Power 851x Rockford Fosgate Power 6 1/2 Components Rockford Fosgate Power 3 way 6x9 2 - JL Audio W7 13.5" Subwoofers (Sealed) Pioneer AVH-P4400BH In - Dash DVD Player Pioneer AVIC - U250 - Add-on GPS Navigation System Audio Control 6XS 4 Way Crossover / Line Driver Ohio Generator 200 Amp Alternator 3 - Stinger SPP1200 Batteries 1 - Optima D34/78 Battery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8ight Posted June 29, 2012 Report Share Posted June 29, 2012 Isolators prevent your under-the-hood battery from becoming damaged because of a larger dead or low battery in the back sucking all of the juice off of it when you turn the car off. The battery in the back will still start the car but if the one under the hood is completely KO'd it will never charge again. This is a rare issue and you would have to do something stupid in the first place to cause such a thing, you would have to somehow discharge the rear battery independent of the front which would still be connected. @fosgatefan821 Of course isolators create resistance, it's good to keep in mind that most everything you attach between the two points a wire runs between creates SOME resistance. Quote I'm gonna hate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AgentTyler Posted June 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2012 Isolators prevent your under-the-hood battery from becoming damaged because of a larger dead or low battery in the back sucking all of the juice off of it when you turn the car off. The battery in the back will still start the car but if the one under the hood is completely KO'd it will never charge again. This is a rare issue and you would have to do something stupid in the first place to cause such a thing, you would have to somehow discharge the rear battery independent of the front which would still be connected. @fosgatefan821 Of course isolators create resistance, it's good to keep in mind that most everything you attach between the two points a wire runs between creates SOME resistance. But will the way I'm thinking with connecting the rear battery straight to the alt instead of front battery work? Quote 1998 Ford Contour Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-P8400BH Front/Rear Door Speakers: Alpine SPR-68 (Type-R 6x8) Door Speaker Amplifer: Kicker ZX650.4 Subwoofers: 1 SSA Icon 12" Amplifier: MB.Quart 1.1500d Second Battery: XS Power D925 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8ight Posted June 29, 2012 Report Share Posted June 29, 2012 Isolators prevent your under-the-hood battery from becoming damaged because of a larger dead or low battery in the back sucking all of the juice off of it when you turn the car off. The battery in the back will still start the car but if the one under the hood is completely KO'd it will never charge again. This is a rare issue and you would have to do something stupid in the first place to cause such a thing, you would have to somehow discharge the rear battery independent of the front which would still be connected. @fosgatefan821 Of course isolators create resistance, it's good to keep in mind that most everything you attach between the two points a wire runs between creates SOME resistance. But will the way I'm thinking with connecting the rear battery straight to the alt instead of front battery work? Why not, the charge lead between your battery and alternator is always hot. It makes no difference whether you connect it to the alt or battery directly. If you already have wire run for your amps connect that to the new battery then connect the amps to the new battery. That's the easiest way to add batteries if you ask me. Quote I'm gonna hate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AgentTyler Posted June 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2012 Yes you're correct. I wasn't thinking properly. Brain fart. Thank you tho. Quote 1998 Ford Contour Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-P8400BH Front/Rear Door Speakers: Alpine SPR-68 (Type-R 6x8) Door Speaker Amplifer: Kicker ZX650.4 Subwoofers: 1 SSA Icon 12" Amplifier: MB.Quart 1.1500d Second Battery: XS Power D925 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8ight Posted June 29, 2012 Report Share Posted June 29, 2012 Yes you're correct. I wasn't thinking properly. Brain fart. Thank you tho. Happens to me all of the time, but that's why I ask questions on here! I'll be waiting to see that Icon, I love SSA subs. Quote I'm gonna hate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AgentTyler Posted June 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2012 I love the Icon. I just got it in the mail the other day. Now I just need a DD-1 to tune my amp. That may be my next purchase after I get some 0 Gauge for Big 3 and a run to my back battery. Quote 1998 Ford Contour Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-P8400BH Front/Rear Door Speakers: Alpine SPR-68 (Type-R 6x8) Door Speaker Amplifer: Kicker ZX650.4 Subwoofers: 1 SSA Icon 12" Amplifier: MB.Quart 1.1500d Second Battery: XS Power D925 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassface Posted June 29, 2012 Report Share Posted June 29, 2012 So you want to run 2 1/0 gauge wires off your power post on your alternator? 1 to the front battery and 1 to the rear?. If so that may end up being alot of stress on the alternator positive post. I would just do it like most everyone else with 1 alt and do the big 3 then do the runs of 1/0 from front battery to rear battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AgentTyler Posted June 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2012 Yeah, thats what I'm going to do. After I got over my brain fart thats what I decided. Quote 1998 Ford Contour Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-P8400BH Front/Rear Door Speakers: Alpine SPR-68 (Type-R 6x8) Door Speaker Amplifer: Kicker ZX650.4 Subwoofers: 1 SSA Icon 12" Amplifier: MB.Quart 1.1500d Second Battery: XS Power D925 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZachG Posted June 29, 2012 Report Share Posted June 29, 2012 So with the second battery I'm putting in my trunk I should just run my now power wire to the positive on my alt and use the run going to my trunk? & no big 3 would be needed then correct? As of right now my 1/0 is attached right to the post on my fuse box where the alt drops power off to. Can I keep it like that and just connect to my rear battery cause how I see it its the same thing. Fused on both sides of course Quote 1998 Pontiac grand prix gtp supercharged2 12" Obsidain Audio V.1 on a 2011 zx1500.1 at 2 ohms. 20ft of Knuconceptz CCA 0 Guage. 2nd Battery is a Shurken BT-120. Box is 3.5cu tuned at 31.8hz sealed off from the trunk. 14sqft of Dynamat on the Rear deck top & bottom. Soon to be more for doors/roof. Gets low & loud Did a 140.5 Sealed at Battle of the boom in June 2013 dropping to 12.7v (need a alt mines going bad) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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