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i realize you figured it out but for all people lookin peel an seal is a great alternative i used it in my car as long as you clean the surface well with alchool or paint thinner it sticks great does have slight smell but goes away in a day or so also note you do have to use a few layers but sound deadner doesn't stop flex flex is from weak structure not high output the peal an seal will however take the tin sound out of the car when applied correctly an does not peel in heat or anything like that i live in oklahoma an had no issues in summer will repost if it starts to peel off or anything bad

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i realize you figured it out but for all people lookin peel an seal is a great alternative i used it in my car as long as you clean the surface well with alchool or paint thinner it sticks great does have slight smell but goes away in a day or so also note you do have to use a few layers but sound deadner doesn't stop flex flex is from weak structure not high output the peal an seal will however take the tin sound out of the car when applied correctly an does not peel in heat or anything like that i live in oklahoma an had no issues in summer will repost if it starts to peel off or anything bad

no its not

iv used it on my doors and once i was able to get it to stick witch was after heating a strip up with a heat gun it still stunk on hot days and some fell off after a week or 2 luckly i didnt have the door panles on but heres some aftermath pics

IMG_0698.jpg

IMG_0714.jpg

and all of that brown shit wont come off without sanding

also check this link peel and seal can work but is more expensive than any car audio deadner out there

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/125605-another-peel-seal-thread-but-not-what-you-think/

Bagged 83 C10

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peel and seal is asphalt based so in order to get a "good" bond to the metal or roof needs to be sticky so you have to heat the asphalt or tar backed foil to get it to stick and i used alcohol to apply i would suggest getting real deadner

Bagged 83 C10

89 K1500 

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it is asphalt based but does not need to be hot to stick i applied it in rain while sittin in trunk with lid closed an tarp over it an stuck fine for me if your on a budget i run dc lvl 4 18 an it worked great for me yes i had to do more then 1 layer an no of course its not as good as say second skin but for the price well worth it stopped my trunk from sounding like a tin can when bass hits but there will always be skeptics go pick up a roll for 17 bucks remove license plate do knock test add peel an seal an see there is a difference

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i would like to also add i have yet to do my doors on my car so idk how it works on them ive done friends doors but not sure how its holdin up i will post pictures when i finish the whole car along with before an after results for my 01 taurus i already did my rodeo but didnt take any pics before i put carpet in trim back in

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peal and seal is garbage, it dont stick when hung upside down or on the side of a door in hotter temps, it also stinks...

the more you use never means the better it works...

It takes a good 2 layers to equal 1 layer of a quality 80mil deadener as most these roofing products are 40mil (some 45mil IF your lucky). That being said, its worse off than a single layer of 60mil. However that is just thickness, maybe after 3 or 4 layers your now at the same stiffness.

These facts are posted all over the internet from trusted sound deadener companies (Secondskin, Dynamat, Audio Technix, Stinger) and so on.

Even the Second Skin rep Jon had mentioned more than once the differences and told a customer to get a real deadener, and he wasnt trying to push the brand product he works for since the whole topic was about protectowrap vs audio technix, and was urging for the guy to buy audio technix.

So if you cant trust a rep that is pushing you to buy his competitors product over protectowrap or peel & seal, Id say its safe that he is not handing you a line of BS!

Speaking of protectowrap, they had a good gimmick going, they added a little more mass to their roofing material and called it audiowrap and increased the price like no other.. Why because people use roofing products for their vehicles and they wanted to get in on the game, even tho they where ripping customers off saying its a butyl product that smelt like hot asphalt and fell off like asphalt based product. Need less to say No one talks about audiowrap. It came and gone in a couple months it seemed.

Then you have companies like ZillaMat claiming big things and its an asphalt/butyl based deadener.

Gave it a try, orded a roll of "80mil", the guy that sold it didnt even know the difference between mil and mm. He assumed Mil ment MM in the emails back and forth with him (should of red flagged my purchase right away) 80millimeter deadener would be THICK, 3.14 inches thick..... Turned out to be nothing more than a expensive roll of peel & seal........

For some reason it always seems to be 1 tool that thinks roofing materials are some gods great gift to car audio, no matter how many skilled people have tried these products 10-15 years ago with horrid results, trying to save a buck, and spending praticly the same price after you include the millions of layers to chive the stiffness of 1 80mil sheet.

 

 

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