siucsaluki11 Posted July 2, 2012 Report Share Posted July 2, 2012 My lancer has a 120A stock alt, and i have a HC1400 under the hood. Im going to be doing the big 3 as soon as i got the money. Currently, i only have my BRZ1700.1D which is being ran at 2 ohms, and an MRP-F300 which is being ran at 4 ohms per channel. In the future, i think it would be nice to get some trunk space back, so i an contemplating just running a single 12 in a ported box with lots of power. But how much power can i go to, with just adding some big ass AGM batts in the back (my 1400 is under my hood) before i need to look at a high output alt? A HO alt for my car is about 450-600, and since its burried in the tiny engine bay beneath 2 other belt driven pumps, im going to have to pay someone to put this in most likely, making it a costly endeavor in all. But id like to be able to run 1700-2500w RMS, plus what im feeding my doors, and if i go up in power there, ill most likely be feeding more to my doors as well, which means even more current draw. So when do i really need to get a HO alt. As far as physics are concerned, i need one as it is, since my alt puts out 120A and my system draws ~200A at full tilt between my subs and mids/highs. So when is it necessary to go up to a HO alt? Quote woman..cant live with em...cant shoot em...guess were all fucked You might be a Redneck if you use your leftover gutters for a speaker box port... YOU JUST LOST THE GAMER.I.P. Blazer=========================Last setup was in the 141s on music (37hz) with 2 12s and 1kw in a 4dr blazer.2010 Mitsubishi Lancer DE2 12in Clarions (kept from blazer)HiFonics BRZ1700.1d (at 2 ohms BLOWN) [JBL GTS180X for subs currently 60wRMS x2ch!!!!!! This works for till i get the blown amp fixed] Alpine 4ch salvaged from blazer (currently near death)9887 peerless 7s in the doors and CDT tweeters ran active no speakers in the rearKintik HC1400 under the hood.metered once a while ago, dont remember it...was piss poor compared to the blazer, mid 130s i think....looking to replace subs and amp when i have money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bad_ass_car Posted July 2, 2012 Report Share Posted July 2, 2012 i think its about time. i have a bre2500d and my alt is putting out 180 and still running short. everyone keeps telling me to try and match the alt output with your draw at full tilt. but i'm new to most of this so maybe we can learn together Quote i'm new to the spl world and loving it!!!4- power acoustik mofo 152srd d9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey Bates Posted July 2, 2012 Report Share Posted July 2, 2012 simply get a volt meter ( i got one $5 on ebay) and watch your voltage. im not sure whats considered the lowest safe safe voltage but prob mid to low 13's is as far as your want it to go (for stable eletrical) see where your at. . . if you can run 10k rms and you never see ur vlts go under 13 you dont need one ( super super exagerated and will never happen) but you get the point. get a volt meter and look at whats happeneing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siucsaluki11 Posted July 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2012 simply get a volt meter ( i got one $5 on ebay) and watch your voltage. im not sure whats considered the lowest safe safe voltage but prob mid to low 13's is as far as your want it to go (for stable eletrical) see where your at. . . if you can run 10k rms and you never see ur vlts go under 13 you dont need one ( super super exagerated and will never happen) but you get the point. get a volt meter and look at whats happeneing Didnt feel like installing a voltage meter, but when i was setting everything up and checked my voltage blasting a 40Hz tone, full tilt, car idling, and voltage dropped to ~12.9, but that was at idle. I also dont have the big 3 done under my hood yet. This is what i was thinking, like you said, so long as your voltage doesnt drop to dangerous levels, its not going to hurt anything....but there comes a point when your alt cant keep your batteries charged.... Quote woman..cant live with em...cant shoot em...guess were all fucked You might be a Redneck if you use your leftover gutters for a speaker box port... YOU JUST LOST THE GAMER.I.P. Blazer=========================Last setup was in the 141s on music (37hz) with 2 12s and 1kw in a 4dr blazer.2010 Mitsubishi Lancer DE2 12in Clarions (kept from blazer)HiFonics BRZ1700.1d (at 2 ohms BLOWN) [JBL GTS180X for subs currently 60wRMS x2ch!!!!!! This works for till i get the blown amp fixed] Alpine 4ch salvaged from blazer (currently near death)9887 peerless 7s in the doors and CDT tweeters ran active no speakers in the rearKintik HC1400 under the hood.metered once a while ago, dont remember it...was piss poor compared to the blazer, mid 130s i think....looking to replace subs and amp when i have money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey Bates Posted July 2, 2012 Report Share Posted July 2, 2012 exactly!!! but VM are just handy for well when ur not home haha and they look cool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siucsaluki11 Posted July 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2012 exactly!!! but VM are just handy for well when ur not home haha and they look cool theres a fluke 88 in my car at almost all times. I have just about every tool i need to work on my shit in my car at all times for the most part. Especially since my rear seat doesnt fold, so i have to pull it out to get to my spare tire if i blow a tire. Quote woman..cant live with em...cant shoot em...guess were all fucked You might be a Redneck if you use your leftover gutters for a speaker box port... YOU JUST LOST THE GAMER.I.P. Blazer=========================Last setup was in the 141s on music (37hz) with 2 12s and 1kw in a 4dr blazer.2010 Mitsubishi Lancer DE2 12in Clarions (kept from blazer)HiFonics BRZ1700.1d (at 2 ohms BLOWN) [JBL GTS180X for subs currently 60wRMS x2ch!!!!!! This works for till i get the blown amp fixed] Alpine 4ch salvaged from blazer (currently near death)9887 peerless 7s in the doors and CDT tweeters ran active no speakers in the rearKintik HC1400 under the hood.metered once a while ago, dont remember it...was piss poor compared to the blazer, mid 130s i think....looking to replace subs and amp when i have money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeamHT Posted July 3, 2012 Report Share Posted July 3, 2012 I would say you could run anywhere from 1,200-1,400 watts with a little drop. But to answer your question, you upgrade the alternator when the amperage demanded exceeds what your stock can put out. You have multiple options, large charging or large reserve. I hate seeing anything below 14 and could hold 14 volts with three RF T4000s and a T800.4 full tilt for hours. I also upgrade the electrical before anything else on the build. Quote Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeamHT Posted July 3, 2012 Report Share Posted July 3, 2012 And not having a voltage meter isn't a necessity...its just a dumb idea not to have it. It is an important element to monitor. Quote Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey Bates Posted July 3, 2012 Report Share Posted July 3, 2012 every car is different man, even someone with a very similiar setup. a vm take 20 min to put in. run some wires from the bat to in your dash (run with your amps power, and branch off to the dash where you ran your rcas from, and even if its a temp thing and the VM is tucked between your seat or something outta sight, just so you can reference Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siucsaluki11 Posted July 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2012 accidentally deleted my reply. But what all do you have in there? Im doing the big 3 in aug/sept when i have a break from school. I don't have shit for spare time lately, too busy with school. Probably do a volt meter then too, though my dash is a bitch to get off... I have a HC1400 under my hood and 1/0 to the trunk, BRZ1700D@2ohms and MRP-F300@4ohms, and my voltage drops to 12.9 at full tilt while idling. As far as the numbers go, i need an HO alt as it is, my alt is a 120A alt, and my system draws ~200A Quote woman..cant live with em...cant shoot em...guess were all fucked You might be a Redneck if you use your leftover gutters for a speaker box port... YOU JUST LOST THE GAMER.I.P. Blazer=========================Last setup was in the 141s on music (37hz) with 2 12s and 1kw in a 4dr blazer.2010 Mitsubishi Lancer DE2 12in Clarions (kept from blazer)HiFonics BRZ1700.1d (at 2 ohms BLOWN) [JBL GTS180X for subs currently 60wRMS x2ch!!!!!! This works for till i get the blown amp fixed] Alpine 4ch salvaged from blazer (currently near death)9887 peerless 7s in the doors and CDT tweeters ran active no speakers in the rearKintik HC1400 under the hood.metered once a while ago, dont remember it...was piss poor compared to the blazer, mid 130s i think....looking to replace subs and amp when i have money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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