siucsaluki11 Posted July 11, 2012 Report Share Posted July 11, 2012 Just speaking from personal experience, The Brz is great if you get the 2400 and keep the gains low but if you want full power out of it it is not going to sound clear. It has alot of distortion at full power. Also one of my brothers has an audioque and he get full power out of it and it sounds really good which is the reason why i recommended it. Ive had both and even talked one of my friends in to buying a hifonics 2400 brz for his two 12 jl w7. In my experience what you are saying is not true at all. His setup with me tuning his amp is to this day the best sounding setup ive ever heard. Box and subs play a much greater role in the sound you are getting unless the amp is a pos like a boss is. (even some old boss were actually made well but whatever). The key is tuning your amp wether it is the ap or the hifonics both are relatively the same as shown by the budget price. Just get an amp that overpowers your subs ratings and then set the amp well. The audiopipe and hifonics both will do the job. Ive had the audioque and tuned right was still not galaxies better like people swear they are. Following up on this, I understand its all in the tuning but my point is that you can pay 350 for a 2400W amp but you definitely wont get 2400W of clean sounding bass out of it, if you tune it right then yes but you may get half the power which at the end if the day if you pay 350 for it you might as well would've payed the same for a better quality amp that pushes 1200W. I used my ear-o-meter but Im not the only one that feels this way. some references are I owned a hifonics 1200 does rated until I put it to the DD-1. Then the gain could only go up I'd say about 1/3 then it distorted and no bass boost. Before it was like 1/2 way up and near max bass boost, plus its not the most efficient amp. The skar 1500 I have now destroys the hifonics amp. and some testing I found on a different site http://www.ecoustics...dio/542894.html ill have to look at your link still, but Hunter obviously didn't do his shit right. I dont have a DD-1, or an O-Scope, i used my ear o meter as well as a DMM. My gains are at about 1/3, according to the DMM I'm making enough voltage (using P=(V^2)/R) to get what its rated at, bass boost all the way down. I will clamp it when i finally get a chance, i think my grandfather has an AC clamp meter (retired electrician) i could use to check what its ACTUALLY doing...but yeah...Mine sounds nice and clean, and supposedly is making at or close to rated, might be some soft clipping in there at the moment, but nothing audible. woman..cant live with em...cant shoot em...guess were all fucked You might be a Redneck if you use your leftover gutters for a speaker box port... YOU JUST LOST THE GAMER.I.P. Blazer=========================Last setup was in the 141s on music (37hz) with 2 12s and 1kw in a 4dr blazer.2010 Mitsubishi Lancer DE2 12in Clarions (kept from blazer)HiFonics BRZ1700.1d (at 2 ohms BLOWN) [JBL GTS180X for subs currently 60wRMS x2ch!!!!!! This works for till i get the blown amp fixed] Alpine 4ch salvaged from blazer (currently near death)9887 peerless 7s in the doors and CDT tweeters ran active no speakers in the rearKintik HC1400 under the hood.metered once a while ago, dont remember it...was piss poor compared to the blazer, mid 130s i think....looking to replace subs and amp when i have money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAM5493 Posted July 11, 2012 Report Share Posted July 11, 2012 Just speaking from personal experience, The Brz is great if you get the 2400 and keep the gains low but if you want full power out of it it is not going to sound clear. It has alot of distortion at full power. Also one of my brothers has an audioque and he get full power out of it and it sounds really good which is the reason why i recommended it. Ive had both and even talked one of my friends in to buying a hifonics 2400 brz for his two 12 jl w7. In my experience what you are saying is not true at all. His setup with me tuning his amp is to this day the best sounding setup ive ever heard. Box and subs play a much greater role in the sound you are getting unless the amp is a pos like a boss is. (even some old boss were actually made well but whatever). The key is tuning your amp wether it is the ap or the hifonics both are relatively the same as shown by the budget price. Just get an amp that overpowers your subs ratings and then set the amp well. The audiopipe and hifonics both will do the job. Ive had the audioque and tuned right was still not galaxies better like people swear they are. Following up on this, I understand its all in the tuning but my point is that you can pay 350 for a 2400W amp but you definitely wont get 2400W of clean sounding bass out of it, if you tune it right then yes but you may get half the power which at the end if the day if you pay 350 for it you might as well would've payed the same for a better quality amp that pushes 1200W. I used my ear-o-meter but Im not the only one that feels this way. some references are I owned a hifonics 1200 does rated until I put it to the DD-1. Then the gain could only go up I'd say about 1/3 then it distorted and no bass boost. Before it was like 1/2 way up and near max bass boost, plus its not the most efficient amp. The skar 1500 I have now destroys the hifonics amp. and some testing I found on a different site http://www.ecoustics...dio/542894.html ill have to look at your link still, but Hunter obviously didn't do his shit right. I dont have a DD-1, or an O-Scope, i used my ear o meter as well as a DMM. My gains are at about 1/3, according to the DMM I'm making enough voltage (using P=(V^2)/R) to get what its rated at, bass boost all the way down. I will clamp it when i finally get a chance, i think my grandfather has an AC clamp meter (retired electrician) i could use to check what its ACTUALLY doing...but yeah...Mine sounds nice and clean, and supposedly is making at or close to rated, might be some soft clipping in there at the moment, but nothing audible. take a look at it, Im not saying its a bad amp or anything. for the price its really good. Just that I feel like if you want clean sound at rated power you have other brands that are good prices. One other thing i didn't like was that its really power hungry. But once you clamp it you should post your results here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siucsaluki11 Posted July 12, 2012 Report Share Posted July 12, 2012 did read it, and it put out ALMOST rated at 1% THD, thats good enough for me. Unfortuantely, i don't have access to an Oscope that i know of, so i can't tell for sure I'm getting clean power, but i will gladly clamp them and post the findings though. Im interested to see what it really does myself... EDIT: and yeah, i still say, hard to beat for the money. How does one test for efficiency, cuz id like to test that as well....keep in mind I'm running at 2 ohms. woman..cant live with em...cant shoot em...guess were all fucked You might be a Redneck if you use your leftover gutters for a speaker box port... YOU JUST LOST THE GAMER.I.P. Blazer=========================Last setup was in the 141s on music (37hz) with 2 12s and 1kw in a 4dr blazer.2010 Mitsubishi Lancer DE2 12in Clarions (kept from blazer)HiFonics BRZ1700.1d (at 2 ohms BLOWN) [JBL GTS180X for subs currently 60wRMS x2ch!!!!!! This works for till i get the blown amp fixed] Alpine 4ch salvaged from blazer (currently near death)9887 peerless 7s in the doors and CDT tweeters ran active no speakers in the rearKintik HC1400 under the hood.metered once a while ago, dont remember it...was piss poor compared to the blazer, mid 130s i think....looking to replace subs and amp when i have money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAM5493 Posted July 12, 2012 Report Share Posted July 12, 2012 did read it, and it put out ALMOST rated at 1% THD, thats good enough for me. Unfortuantely, i don't have access to an Oscope that i know of, so i can't tell for sure I'm getting clean power, but i will gladly clamp them and post the findings though. Im interested to see what it really does myself... EDIT: and yeah, i still say, hard to beat for the money. How does one test for efficiency, cuz id like to test that as well....keep in mind I'm running at 2 ohms. Big difference between 2 ohm and 1 ohm in efficiency I know that but honestly I have no clue how to test for efficiency. But what I can say is that when I had it at first I ran 2 10 brutus subs at 1ohm and the voltage drop was huge and it drained my electrical. I did a big 3 and added a kinetik 800 which helped a ton but after I got my hands on a 12w7 which is 3 ohm and the voltage drop was almost completely gone and it did not get nowhere near as hot as when I ran it at 1 ohm. Im going to do some research on how to test efficiency and then get back to you siucsaluki11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siucsaluki11 Posted July 12, 2012 Report Share Posted July 12, 2012 did read it, and it put out ALMOST rated at 1% THD, thats good enough for me. Unfortuantely, i don't have access to an Oscope that i know of, so i can't tell for sure I'm getting clean power, but i will gladly clamp them and post the findings though. Im interested to see what it really does myself... EDIT: and yeah, i still say, hard to beat for the money. How does one test for efficiency, cuz id like to test that as well....keep in mind I'm running at 2 ohms. Big difference between 2 ohm and 1 ohm in efficiency I know that but honestly I have no clue how to test for efficiency. But what I can say is that when I had it at first I ran 2 10 brutus subs at 1ohm and the voltage drop was huge and it drained my electrical. I did a big 3 and added a kinetik 800 which helped a ton but after I got my hands on a 12w7 which is 3 ohm and the voltage drop was almost completely gone and it did not get nowhere near as hot as when I ran it at 1 ohm. Im going to do some research on how to test efficiency and then get back to you siucsaluki11 yeah, 1 ohm draws a LOT more current and is harder work for the amp, i know that. I did a bit of research earlier, but need to do more. LMK what you find. woman..cant live with em...cant shoot em...guess were all fucked You might be a Redneck if you use your leftover gutters for a speaker box port... YOU JUST LOST THE GAMER.I.P. Blazer=========================Last setup was in the 141s on music (37hz) with 2 12s and 1kw in a 4dr blazer.2010 Mitsubishi Lancer DE2 12in Clarions (kept from blazer)HiFonics BRZ1700.1d (at 2 ohms BLOWN) [JBL GTS180X for subs currently 60wRMS x2ch!!!!!! This works for till i get the blown amp fixed] Alpine 4ch salvaged from blazer (currently near death)9887 peerless 7s in the doors and CDT tweeters ran active no speakers in the rearKintik HC1400 under the hood.metered once a while ago, dont remember it...was piss poor compared to the blazer, mid 130s i think....looking to replace subs and amp when i have money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAM5493 Posted July 12, 2012 Report Share Posted July 12, 2012 Okay don't quote me on this but taking it back to electricity and magnetism class I believe that If you measure the current the amp draws at peak RMS power you're clamping and you also measure the voltage you can multiply by using ohms law Power = current x voltage. when you get the power at the input and the power to the speakers you simply take a ratio and thats the efficiency. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siucsaluki11 Posted July 12, 2012 Report Share Posted July 12, 2012 see, i had a similar theory, but then you have the problem of the input power is DC and the power to the speakers is AC....the conversion isn't a simple 1:1, its not simple at all, I'm kinda intoxicated, so sorry if i don't make any sense...but yeah....i know P=EI, P=(V^2)/R, all that good stuff. Im just trying to figure out the amps efficiency, if the amp ran off AC and produced AC, it would be simple as fuck. But DC to AC.....there has to be some equation I'm forgetting.... woman..cant live with em...cant shoot em...guess were all fucked You might be a Redneck if you use your leftover gutters for a speaker box port... YOU JUST LOST THE GAMER.I.P. Blazer=========================Last setup was in the 141s on music (37hz) with 2 12s and 1kw in a 4dr blazer.2010 Mitsubishi Lancer DE2 12in Clarions (kept from blazer)HiFonics BRZ1700.1d (at 2 ohms BLOWN) [JBL GTS180X for subs currently 60wRMS x2ch!!!!!! This works for till i get the blown amp fixed] Alpine 4ch salvaged from blazer (currently near death)9887 peerless 7s in the doors and CDT tweeters ran active no speakers in the rearKintik HC1400 under the hood.metered once a while ago, dont remember it...was piss poor compared to the blazer, mid 130s i think....looking to replace subs and amp when i have money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siucsaluki11 Posted July 12, 2012 Report Share Posted July 12, 2012 Figure out the current draw, potential power that could be made at that given voltage with that current, and actual power generated? Something along those lines? Is it that simple? woman..cant live with em...cant shoot em...guess were all fucked You might be a Redneck if you use your leftover gutters for a speaker box port... YOU JUST LOST THE GAMER.I.P. Blazer=========================Last setup was in the 141s on music (37hz) with 2 12s and 1kw in a 4dr blazer.2010 Mitsubishi Lancer DE2 12in Clarions (kept from blazer)HiFonics BRZ1700.1d (at 2 ohms BLOWN) [JBL GTS180X for subs currently 60wRMS x2ch!!!!!! This works for till i get the blown amp fixed] Alpine 4ch salvaged from blazer (currently near death)9887 peerless 7s in the doors and CDT tweeters ran active no speakers in the rearKintik HC1400 under the hood.metered once a while ago, dont remember it...was piss poor compared to the blazer, mid 130s i think....looking to replace subs and amp when i have money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAM5493 Posted July 12, 2012 Report Share Posted July 12, 2012 Yeah if you figure the power that the amp is consuming using the ohms law by measuring the current and voltage at the same moment you clamp the maximum out put from the amp you divide output/input and that should be the efficiency Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siucsaluki11 Posted July 12, 2012 Report Share Posted July 12, 2012 Sounds like we may have it figured out, now i just need to get my hands on an O scope to make sure the signal is clean, lol, and a few clamp meters...and i think i need another drink, lol. woman..cant live with em...cant shoot em...guess were all fucked You might be a Redneck if you use your leftover gutters for a speaker box port... YOU JUST LOST THE GAMER.I.P. Blazer=========================Last setup was in the 141s on music (37hz) with 2 12s and 1kw in a 4dr blazer.2010 Mitsubishi Lancer DE2 12in Clarions (kept from blazer)HiFonics BRZ1700.1d (at 2 ohms BLOWN) [JBL GTS180X for subs currently 60wRMS x2ch!!!!!! This works for till i get the blown amp fixed] Alpine 4ch salvaged from blazer (currently near death)9887 peerless 7s in the doors and CDT tweeters ran active no speakers in the rearKintik HC1400 under the hood.metered once a while ago, dont remember it...was piss poor compared to the blazer, mid 130s i think....looking to replace subs and amp when i have money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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