Soundstream Rubicon 1600

[Chris Hammer]

I got the Rubicons Tarantulas and Stealths I am attempting to learn how to clamp. Once I do that I will begin post results of each of the amps I have.

I'm also in for an update man. Glad to hear your going to clamp them

Still need to do some reading and figure out how the hell to do this correctly. I probably should get my install done since I need it hooked up to clamp lol. I figure my results should be solid though my electrical in theory will be very solid for 2600w.

Im guessing by your sig that you have some way to tell when it clips.DD-1 / Oscope.

I read a whole writeup on clamping but I dont have a dd1 or Oscope. I am definitely ordering a DD-1 when I start buying equipment this time around.

[IBleedMusick]

I got the Rubicons Tarantulas and Stealths I am attempting to learn how to clamp. Once I do that I will begin post results of each of the amps I have.

I'm also in for an update man. Glad to hear your going to clamp them

Still need to do some reading and figure out how the hell to do this correctly. I probably should get my install done since I need it hooked up to clamp lol. I figure my results should be solid though my electrical in theory will be very solid for 2600w.

Im guessing by your sig that you have some way to tell when it clips.DD-1 / Oscope.

I read a whole writeup on clamping but I dont have a dd1 or Oscope. I am definitely ordering a DD-1 when I start buying equipment this time around.

Yes sir DD-1 & CC-1.

[252chevyboyz]

I got the Rubicons Tarantulas and Stealths I am attempting to learn how to clamp. Once I do that I will begin post results of each of the amps I have.

I'm also in for an update man. Glad to hear your going to clamp them

Still need to do some reading and figure out how the hell to do this correctly. I probably should get my install done since I need it hooked up to clamp lol. I figure my results should be solid though my electrical in theory will be very solid for 2600w.

I have been reading for quite a while on how to clamp as I hope to get a fluke clamp meter soon but on the list before that is a DD-1 and a Kinetik hc600 to run as my third batt. I got 2 autocraft wet cells up front with 1/0 big 3 and 2/0 running from 1st batt to my 2nd. Is a hc600 worth 55 dollars new? There is a shop in wilson that is selling for 79.99 and the owner gave me a 25 dollar off coupon for helping pass the work of the shop at a local show.

I got my rub2500.1 hooked up to 2 12" Q Powers wired down to 1ohm. Even with 109 degree heat index today I could still play full tilt and it wouldnt get hot enough to go into protect. It was running right on the verge of hot but I love the amp overall. With the right electrical they are great amps. As scooter said if the 1600 is built like the 2500 I would say you will be really happy with it. I also dont have a clamp meter at the moment but I would love to clamp this thing one day here soon so I know what its really doing. Strong series of amps from what I have experienced so far and dont seem very power hungry. I will dip down to about 13.4v on 20hz but anything above 25hz I stay 13.6 and above.

I think it will smash the brz1200.1 and sound much cleaner at the same time. Just my opinion. Also might want to do the big 3 in 1/0 or 0ga. Just to help things charge back up a little quicker. Flex-A-Prene 1/0 is $3.36 a foot and performs well. That is what I run (big 3, to 2nd batt, and to amp power/ground).

XS under the hood would help tremendously and a buddy of mine Zac (SMZ2) has a bc2k and sounds great. Also very efficient causing hardly no voltage drop on stock electrical in an Xterra. Running the amp on a Fi bl motor with a Psi recone and basket. Even after demoing and running it full tilt it was barely even warm.

Honestly the rub1600.1, bc2k, or rub2500.1 would be great. You can always turn the gains down a little bit if your amp is putting out more power than the subs are rated for. Always nice to have a little headroom on power. I think you would be happy with something 2k-2.5k jsut so you can have a little headroom and not have to crank the gains all the way up. I will post a link to where I bought my 2.5k below. It got to my front door in 4 business days via UPS. Ordered on a Thurs and got it the following Tues. The company emailed me a shipping number as soon as it was shipped from the warehouse.

http://www.savinglot...item=RUB1.1600D

http://www.savinglot...item=RUB1.2500D

Hope this can help you out,

-James

Oh yea I'm gutting the 4gauge out soon. Ordering a new battery too. I have a little Kinetik HC600(stock batt also) that was perfect with the BRZ1200 but wont cut it once I go bigger. I will be getting a new batt under hood..and another batt in the back. Maybe a used XS from here or a Kinetik or new XS online.

I'll probably go with some Trystar 1/0 for all my wiring.

http://www.ebay.com/...=item46049edafe

About 3$ a foot and I've ordered it before for a friends car. It has a second sleeve that makes stripping easy.

Yea I agree with you on the headroom which is why I was thinking the BC2K and I'm thinking I might look for some used amps in the 1.5-2K range. I dont have alot as far as electrical though....No HO alt so I can make up for it in some batteries but I'm hesitant on 2.5K

That wire looks good to me man. Has the same 2nd jacket as the Flex-A-Prene but the one thing I like about the Trystar is you have the option of red wire also where the Flex-A-Prene only comes in black.

The bc2k does rated @ 13.8v where the rubicon's do rated @ 14.4v just something to point out. Also dont be to weary of a 2.5k as I am running mine with 2 Autocraft wetcells up front with the Stock 124a alt and big 3 and it is performing great @ 1ohm. I also dont have the gains cranked to the max either though cause I dont have a DD-1 and would really prefer not to clip the amp or subs haha. As long as the amp is efficient and doesnt have dirty power you should be ok with electrical especially with the right XS batts.

[IBleedMusick]

I got the Rubicons Tarantulas and Stealths I am attempting to learn how to clamp. Once I do that I will begin post results of each of the amps I have.

I'm also in for an update man. Glad to hear your going to clamp them

Still need to do some reading and figure out how the hell to do this correctly. I probably should get my install done since I need it hooked up to clamp lol. I figure my results should be solid though my electrical in theory will be very solid for 2600w.

I have been reading for quite a while on how to clamp as I hope to get a fluke clamp meter soon but on the list before that is a DD-1 and a Kinetik hc600 to run as my third batt. I got 2 autocraft wet cells up front with 1/0 big 3 and 2/0 running from 1st batt to my 2nd. Is a hc600 worth 55 dollars new? There is a shop in wilson that is selling for 79.99 and the owner gave me a 25 dollar off coupon for helping pass the work of the shop at a local show.

I got my rub2500.1 hooked up to 2 12" Q Powers wired down to 1ohm. Even with 109 degree heat index today I could still play full tilt and it wouldnt get hot enough to go into protect. It was running right on the verge of hot but I love the amp overall. With the right electrical they are great amps. As scooter said if the 1600 is built like the 2500 I would say you will be really happy with it. I also dont have a clamp meter at the moment but I would love to clamp this thing one day here soon so I know what its really doing. Strong series of amps from what I have experienced so far and dont seem very power hungry. I will dip down to about 13.4v on 20hz but anything above 25hz I stay 13.6 and above.

I think it will smash the brz1200.1 and sound much cleaner at the same time. Just my opinion. Also might want to do the big 3 in 1/0 or 0ga. Just to help things charge back up a little quicker. Flex-A-Prene 1/0 is $3.36 a foot and performs well. That is what I run (big 3, to 2nd batt, and to amp power/ground).

XS under the hood would help tremendously and a buddy of mine Zac (SMZ2) has a bc2k and sounds great. Also very efficient causing hardly no voltage drop on stock electrical in an Xterra. Running the amp on a Fi bl motor with a Psi recone and basket. Even after demoing and running it full tilt it was barely even warm.

Honestly the rub1600.1, bc2k, or rub2500.1 would be great. You can always turn the gains down a little bit if your amp is putting out more power than the subs are rated for. Always nice to have a little headroom on power. I think you would be happy with something 2k-2.5k jsut so you can have a little headroom and not have to crank the gains all the way up. I will post a link to where I bought my 2.5k below. It got to my front door in 4 business days via UPS. Ordered on a Thurs and got it the following Tues. The company emailed me a shipping number as soon as it was shipped from the warehouse.

http://www.savinglot...item=RUB1.1600D

http://www.savinglot...item=RUB1.2500D

Hope this can help you out,

-James

Oh yea I'm gutting the 4gauge out soon. Ordering a new battery too. I have a little Kinetik HC600(stock batt also) that was perfect with the BRZ1200 but wont cut it once I go bigger. I will be getting a new batt under hood..and another batt in the back. Maybe a used XS from here or a Kinetik or new XS online.

I'll probably go with some Trystar 1/0 for all my wiring.

http://www.ebay.com/...=item46049edafe

About 3$ a foot and I've ordered it before for a friends car. It has a second sleeve that makes stripping easy.

Yea I agree with you on the headroom which is why I was thinking the BC2K and I'm thinking I might look for some used amps in the 1.5-2K range. I dont have alot as far as electrical though....No HO alt so I can make up for it in some batteries but I'm hesitant on 2.5K

That wire looks good to me man. Has the same 2nd jacket as the Flex-A-Prene but the one thing I like about the Trystar is you have the option of red wire also where the Flex-A-Prene only comes in black.

The bc2k does rated @ 13.8v where the rubicon's do rated @ 14.4v just something to point out. Also dont be to weary of a 2.5k as I am running mine with 2 Autocraft wetcells up front with the Stock 124a alt and big 3 and it is performing great @ 1ohm. I also dont have the gains cranked to the max either though cause I dont have a DD-1 and would really prefer not to clip the amp or subs haha. As long as the amp is efficient and doesnt have dirty power you should be ok with electrical especially with the right XS batts.

I will be able to purchase a clamp meter in about 3 weeks and by that time I will have everything installed so I will begin doing the tests per the instructions I read on here.

[252chevyboyz]

@IBleedMusick: If you dont create a thread to post the results in please shoot me a PM with the results. I would greatly appreciate

@Chris Hammer: I just uploaded the first video of the Q Powers on the 2.5k. Also got a quick overview of my electrical. I will post a link to it if you would like me to but you could also check out my YT channel. It is also 252chevyboyz. The Q Powers are 700rms and 1500w max. They have been taking the new soundstream like a champ but they have been getting a little warm on the dustcap with the temps between 100-106 degrees outside. Inside the car during the day I'm guess 140-150 degrees if not hotter so they are already warm before they start playing haha. Tinted windows and a Sunshade in the windsheild hardly make a difference.

-James

[Chris Hammer]

I got the Rubicons Tarantulas and Stealths I am attempting to learn how to clamp. Once I do that I will begin post results of each of the amps I have.

I'm also in for an update man. Glad to hear your going to clamp them

Still need to do some reading and figure out how the hell to do this correctly. I probably should get my install done since I need it hooked up to clamp lol. I figure my results should be solid though my electrical in theory will be very solid for 2600w.

I have been reading for quite a while on how to clamp as I hope to get a fluke clamp meter soon but on the list before that is a DD-1 and a Kinetik hc600 to run as my third batt. I got 2 autocraft wet cells up front with 1/0 big 3 and 2/0 running from 1st batt to my 2nd. Is a hc600 worth 55 dollars new? There is a shop in wilson that is selling for 79.99 and the owner gave me a 25 dollar off coupon for helping pass the work of the shop at a local show.

I got my rub2500.1 hooked up to 2 12" Q Powers wired down to 1ohm. Even with 109 degree heat index today I could still play full tilt and it wouldnt get hot enough to go into protect. It was running right on the verge of hot but I love the amp overall. With the right electrical they are great amps. As scooter said if the 1600 is built like the 2500 I would say you will be really happy with it. I also dont have a clamp meter at the moment but I would love to clamp this thing one day here soon so I know what its really doing. Strong series of amps from what I have experienced so far and dont seem very power hungry. I will dip down to about 13.4v on 20hz but anything above 25hz I stay 13.6 and above.

I think it will smash the brz1200.1 and sound much cleaner at the same time. Just my opinion. Also might want to do the big 3 in 1/0 or 0ga. Just to help things charge back up a little quicker. Flex-A-Prene 1/0 is $3.36 a foot and performs well. That is what I run (big 3, to 2nd batt, and to amp power/ground).

XS under the hood would help tremendously and a buddy of mine Zac (SMZ2) has a bc2k and sounds great. Also very efficient causing hardly no voltage drop on stock electrical in an Xterra. Running the amp on a Fi bl motor with a Psi recone and basket. Even after demoing and running it full tilt it was barely even warm.

Honestly the rub1600.1, bc2k, or rub2500.1 would be great. You can always turn the gains down a little bit if your amp is putting out more power than the subs are rated for. Always nice to have a little headroom on power. I think you would be happy with something 2k-2.5k jsut so you can have a little headroom and not have to crank the gains all the way up. I will post a link to where I bought my 2.5k below. It got to my front door in 4 business days via UPS. Ordered on a Thurs and got it the following Tues. The company emailed me a shipping number as soon as it was shipped from the warehouse.

http://www.savinglot...item=RUB1.1600D

http://www.savinglot...item=RUB1.2500D

Hope this can help you out,

-James

Oh yea I'm gutting the 4gauge out soon. Ordering a new battery too. I have a little Kinetik HC600(stock batt also) that was perfect with the BRZ1200 but wont cut it once I go bigger. I will be getting a new batt under hood..and another batt in the back. Maybe a used XS from here or a Kinetik or new XS online.

I'll probably go with some Trystar 1/0 for all my wiring.

http://www.ebay.com/...=item46049edafe

About 3$ a foot and I've ordered it before for a friends car. It has a second sleeve that makes stripping easy.

Yea I agree with you on the headroom which is why I was thinking the BC2K and I'm thinking I might look for some used amps in the 1.5-2K range. I dont have alot as far as electrical though....No HO alt so I can make up for it in some batteries but I'm hesitant on 2.5K

That wire looks good to me man. Has the same 2nd jacket as the Flex-A-Prene but the one thing I like about the Trystar is you have the option of red wire also where the Flex-A-Prene only comes in black.

The bc2k does rated @ 13.8v where the rubicon's do rated @ 14.4v just something to point out. Also dont be to weary of a 2.5k as I am running mine with 2 Autocraft wetcells up front with the Stock 124a alt and big 3 and it is performing great @ 1ohm. I also dont have the gains cranked to the max either though cause I dont have a DD-1 and would really prefer not to clip the amp or subs haha. As long as the amp is efficient and doesnt have dirty power you should be ok with electrical especially with the right XS batts.

I will be able to purchase a clamp meter in about 3 weeks and by that time I will have everything installed so I will begin doing the tests per the instructions I read on here.

Did you ever get that clamp meter? Im looking at jumping to the Rubicon 2500 or a BC2k. If the 1600 does rated Im sure the 2500 does too....a clamp test could help my decision.