ch0sen Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 first thing first is to add a run of 0 gauge from your alt to your batt in the back, that OEM 2 gauge is charging all of your batts, keep it and add that 0 gauge and you will see a huge difference, and on another note, have you put a dmm on "ohm" and made sure your amp is seeing the right load? My current 95 Jetta Build w/ pioneer h/u 2 RD Sonance 10's with flatwind coils 2 Audiopipe apsm 1500.1s 1 Hifonics Brutus Elite 60x4 1 XS d925 1 Stinger spv35 1 1000 amp lead acid 50 ft of 0/1 ofc from Audiotechnix all powerbass components, and coaxils, 4 sets buildlog = http://www.stevemead...2-rd-10s-build/ My build for my wife. http://www.stevemead...01-f-150-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95legwagon Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 oh for a lil bit of info your stock alt should be 140 amp.... i have that same alt sitting in my garage..... thats a nice healthy stock size imho...... the 2 gauge wire from teh trunk to the block is a long distance for a ground wire..... i would run a ground from battery to a shiny spot on strut tower in the trunk..... shouldnt be that hard....i take apart that same car all the time at work ( junkyard )...... the center console is kinda a bitch to take apart if you ever have to lol good luck! i think there real i was looking through that guys stuff he sells and it looks like he finds stuff at auctions and just sells it Yea, it looks like someone got the mids about a month ago....shit. If I had a whole Hertz front stage my ears would jizz all over my cheeks. / LOL My Low Budget Build: Green 1995 Subaru Legacy wagon 147k- $1K headunit- pioneer premier deh-p650-$25 4 Lead acid batts. 1 up front and 3 in back- vented outside.- $50 4 vvme L11 10"s <- $30 shipped a piece 6 cu. ft box (after displacment) tuned to 32ish hz with 10 inch sonotube. -about $50 all together maybe a lil more 2 aspm 1300 strapped Selenium 6"s in the front doors on headunit power- for now -$20 quantum tweets in door-for now -$10 boston acoustic 5 1/4 in rear doors- for now-Free big 3 1/0 and 4awg throughout. roof sound deadened (not peel n seal ftw)-free on 80 amp alt (bench tested to put out 100 amps faithfully) <--?-$10 for test about $430 for everything<----Not bad at all still gotta add 3 way crossover, amp for front and rear door speakers and maybe eq Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PardeTime Posted July 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 I'm getting bigger bats and going to run a second ground. Stereo guy here in my town thinks that should do the trick. He said not to do big three since I already have 2 gauge stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PardeTime Posted July 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 And we read the load today it's for sure 1 ohm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebel4055 Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 Wouldn't listen to the stereo guy about the big 3 LOL Rest In Peace mother. January 22, 1955 - February 14, 2013 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/user/35351-megrch/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JR2011bu Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 Wouldn't listen to the stereo guy about the big 3 LOL x2 always better to have more than to need some imho.. I don't see why he would say no as this is only helping out your electrical breathe better Under Construction 2011 Malibu 1LT 12k DDM Tuning HID's 55W Soundstream 6.5 components(front) Inffinitty Kappa 6x9's (rear) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEvil Posted July 18, 2012 Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 But he hasn't wired his batteries in a series. Look at the pictures in page 1, they are in series. edit - by series I mean each has its own cabling, sorry if I confused you and made you think they were in series as in 24 volts.. If he wired the amp to the first battery it would remove connectors and wire that the power has to travel through before it can reach the amp. MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassface Posted July 18, 2012 Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 Not sure if this has been mentioned yet, but one glaring thing i noticed was that the amp is mounted flat against the box, im wondering if using 1/4" spacers under the amp would help to circulate more air, also maybe wiring in a small cpu fan would help to keep it cool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEvil Posted July 19, 2012 Report Share Posted July 19, 2012 spacers and a fan will help, but if you're mounting the fan spaced from the amp use one about 120mm in size. Can get some low power quiet 120's reasonably cheap from places like silentpcreview.com or other retailers. I still suggest moving the amp to the first battery in the trunk first, and making sure your ground is good in both the front of the vehicle and near the amp. MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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