CleanSierra Posted July 26, 2012 Report Share Posted July 26, 2012 Sub up/ port to the side in a regular cab, sub up/port up in most extended and crew cabs Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncc74656 Posted July 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2012 is the port position change dependent on the space in front of it? e.g. to place the port facing the path of least resistance? what about facing the port towards the rear door? nothing, gutted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanSierra Posted July 26, 2012 Report Share Posted July 26, 2012 Rule of thumb for port placement is that you have a minimum of the port width from any obstacle. For example, if you have a 6" wide port, then it's usually best to keep it clear of any obstruction within 6 inches. Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanSierra Posted July 26, 2012 Report Share Posted July 26, 2012 is the port position change dependent on the space in front of it? e.g. to place the port facing the path of least resistance? what about facing the port towards the rear door? You're not going for any kind of competition kind of setup are you? You just want it to sound good on music right? I think you need to research a little on this site and soak up more information. You will get guys telling you how to get the LOUDEST setup, and possibly guys that have gotten CRAZY loud in an extended cab Dodge around here. An 18" Fi sub is going to be loud in your truck, assuming this box issue gets sorted out. Port orientation and sub setup will make differences in what you hear, but it's all about what sounds best to YOU. We can't tell you what your ears will like the most. You seem to like music that has a lot of LOW hits. You may be better suited for a lower tuning, like 30-33 Hz, since you're into techno and dubstep type beats. Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncc74656 Posted July 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2012 it will not be used for comp. my goal has been to replace the dual 15" kicker L7's i had with a sub that will give more frequency response with out sacrificing a lot of volume. this sub is a daily driver to play pandora nothing, gutted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andale927 Posted July 26, 2012 Report Share Posted July 26, 2012 it will not be used for comp. my goal has been to replace the dual 15" kicker L7's i had with a sub that will give more frequency response with out sacrificing a lot of volume. this sub is a daily driver to play pandora You may still like the bl but it sounds like you should have gone with the Fi Q. Models very flat in WinISD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncc74656 Posted July 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2012 i was debating for some time between the Q or BL. i settled on the BL because i wanted volume and figured the round BL would give me more frequency than the kickers. i had 2 12" L7's in the truck after my 15's got stolen and they couldn't get loud enough to balance out my mids and highs. i ended up blowing the 12's trying to push them while waiting for the BL to arrive. nothing, gutted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siucsaluki11 Posted July 26, 2012 Report Share Posted July 26, 2012 You can easily get 7 cubes at 30 Hz sub/port up with the dimmensions you have, after displacement and all...double baffle too. IDK what that guy you had build that box was thinking. Between catching up on breaking bad, ADD, and school work, ive started modeling something up for you that comes out to roughly 7 cubes net at 30 Hz with right around 15.25 sqin/cube woman..cant live with em...cant shoot em...guess were all fucked You might be a Redneck if you use your leftover gutters for a speaker box port... YOU JUST LOST THE GAMER.I.P. Blazer=========================Last setup was in the 141s on music (37hz) with 2 12s and 1kw in a 4dr blazer.2010 Mitsubishi Lancer DE2 12in Clarions (kept from blazer)HiFonics BRZ1700.1d (at 2 ohms BLOWN) [JBL GTS180X for subs currently 60wRMS x2ch!!!!!! This works for till i get the blown amp fixed] Alpine 4ch salvaged from blazer (currently near death)9887 peerless 7s in the doors and CDT tweeters ran active no speakers in the rearKintik HC1400 under the hood.metered once a while ago, dont remember it...was piss poor compared to the blazer, mid 130s i think....looking to replace subs and amp when i have money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 26, 2012 Report Share Posted July 26, 2012 i want pictures of your box. right the fuck now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siucsaluki11 Posted July 26, 2012 Report Share Posted July 26, 2012 Kranny, theres a link on the first page of this thread to the atrocity that was supposed to be a subwoofer enclosure. woman..cant live with em...cant shoot em...guess were all fucked You might be a Redneck if you use your leftover gutters for a speaker box port... YOU JUST LOST THE GAMER.I.P. Blazer=========================Last setup was in the 141s on music (37hz) with 2 12s and 1kw in a 4dr blazer.2010 Mitsubishi Lancer DE2 12in Clarions (kept from blazer)HiFonics BRZ1700.1d (at 2 ohms BLOWN) [JBL GTS180X for subs currently 60wRMS x2ch!!!!!! This works for till i get the blown amp fixed] Alpine 4ch salvaged from blazer (currently near death)9887 peerless 7s in the doors and CDT tweeters ran active no speakers in the rearKintik HC1400 under the hood.metered once a while ago, dont remember it...was piss poor compared to the blazer, mid 130s i think....looking to replace subs and amp when i have money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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