Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

17 Good

About ncc74656

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

3865 profile views
  1. k, sounds good. something like this? https://www.midwestfabrics.com/1-8-closed-cell-foam.html i was originally planning to build an enclosure inside the door for the midrange (its deep and the door needs to be cut). however maybe free air would be easier? im worried about back wave radiating into the cab. also worried about the midbass pressure against the midrange if they share air space in the door.
  2. i am building pods for my doors, the panels are rough and worn out. im thinking of covering the panels with something soft, maybe 1/4 or 1/8" foam to provide some coushin and cover imperfections. then id like to vynal wrap the entire panel. what glues woudl you recomend and what materials for the foam? there are some tight concave parts to the panels. 99 dodge ram
  3. trying to set myself up for success right here. the basic grounds are mesa ring terminals (the split type) that i have on drilled/tapped holes via 10mm bolts to the frame rails. the thing im trying to address is how the ring terminals are almost always attached to posts or terminals that only allow for maybe 1/3 of the surface area contact. i was looking at using copper bar as a busbar to connect my caps together but i think maybe aluminum will be easier to source. i have a battery tester from harbor freight, it only goes to 500A wich is a bit less than my calculated rms current draw, ive been using that to load wires and test drops. so far so good. however i have zero audio installed, up till now its been dealing with factory replacement setup. i will have 3 runs of 2/0 going front to rear to handle the amperage and then have to deal with linking all that out to 4 or 5 amps, 4-6 caps, and radio/dsp and so on. i just want to have a good game plan and setup so i dont get in there after the install and realize i need to run a bunch more wire or change out busbars or what not.
  4. for determining how much wire or how many runs are needed - i just want to make sure im not overlooking something here. so long as im using name brand ring terminals i shouldn't need to worry about how many amps can pass through the ring terminals, right? the longer runs obviously need thicker wire so if im running 10 feet of power between battery banks i may need multiple runs, but if im grounding those batteries to the frame over 2 feet then a single run would be enough? seeing as shorter runs can hold far more current than longer runs, right? with batteries front and rear i would want to factor the largest amperage draw and ensure that can occur bi-directional, right? every link in the system should be able to hold the maximum expected current in other words. once i hit another batter (going from front to rear lets say) my distance is reset, right? so if im going 10 feet from one battery to another and then from that second battery my amp is a further 5 feet away. the amperage calculation for the amp wire is 5 feet, not 15 feet. right? when wiring to a busbar for capacitors would i include the length of the busbar in my wire ampacity calculations or do i not include the busbar? how do i do math for that? ill still do voltage drop tests once its all installed, just want to start with a solid framework
  5. how does grounding to the frame actually work? i started looking into electrical and i may be in one of those 'too deep' moments. steel has like 5-10% the electrical conductivity as copper right? so if we are talking about the frame being a busbar then it stands to reason that the frame would need to be crazy thick to support the current transfer that a 0ga copper wire can handle. so what is happening? is there just such a large pool of electrons in the frame that this some how changes the math? with this thinking the new aluminum body vehicles would be far better in terms of electrics when installing amps then, no?
  6. so the SPLX is different from teh V2 but hte V2 has SPLX parts? so there are V2's for sale on ebay right now. if i buy one of those, they do not have SPLX lable on teh case. the amp I have appart does have SPLX on teh case. the main board in there, does the V2 share teh same board and fets or are they different? both have 3 power and 3 ground...
  7. man that gets confusing...
  8. so the V2 is a different amp than teh splx? im looking at buying a 2nd one so this is why i ask. the one i have is labled as SPLX on teh case. when i look up the amp in v2 the case does not say splx and is labled 10000w instead of 5000 watts. does that sound right, is that how i can tell them apart?
  9. im also looking at the port sizes. both chambers seem to want about the same area of port, i was expecting the lower tune to require a much larger port? does this make sense that both ports (high and low tune) would need about the same size for the same air velocity?
  10. i have read that i want a 200% larger rear chamber from the front. however in winisd i seem to have hte best response curve wtih about 170% larger. 8.5 to 5.5. im not sure, will i have cancellation issues if im not exactly double volume differential? im looking at port resonance now, i want to be over 140hz if im xover at 70 right?
  11. want to go out of the box and my comfort zone. fi sp4 18, building a 6th order with tuning at 25/60hz. goals are a smoother response curve than just a vented box and as much output as i can muster. here is a picture of my idea. vent velocities are sub 30m/s, my current vented box is 27m/s and i dont think i notice any chuffing so i went with sub 30 as my benchmark. the port areas seem small to me but i think all i need to be concerned with are the velocities of air, right? my port ratios are high... higher htan i normally build, i can shrink them of course but do we think it matters? or should i change the ports to be more square? i want to start on this build monday so any input will be welcomed.
  12. dosent help. i need the retention plates that hold the fets to the heatsink removed. i need to be able to read the numbering on the fets to know which ones go in which pin locations
  13. i am trying to teach myself amp repair, i removed the rectifiers to separate power and output sections of teh board. i did not realize at the time that the 4 chips were different, some npn and others pnp. i hope someone can help as im stuck right now and dont know how to continue the repair with out this info i am looking for pictures of this HCCA amp with the board exposed and the retention plates off for the mosfets. i need to see the writing on the rectifiers on the center/outside edge of the board. i circled the spots here: https://imgur.com/EA7Gitc
  • Create New...

SMD Chat Room

SMD Chat Room

Please enter your display name