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I'll start off by saying that im only 15 and am trying to learn as much about car audio as possible, I love everything about it! I want to have a huge powerful system at some point! So ill start off with my few questions..

- I'm buying a Rockford R750-1 Very soon to power either a T0D212 or a T1D212 depending on how powerful the birthsheet shows the amp to be, but I was wondering if i will need to do the Big 3 wire upgrade? My 94 Dakota has a 90 amp alt. and a duralast 850 amp battery.. I am also running a Kenwood 60x4 channel amp for my fosgate door speakers.. so im worried about dimming lights and such.

-Does wiring a subwoofer/amp down to 1 ohm make a difference other then more power?

- Does the trim ring for a T2 fit on a T1 or T0? I dont wanna be able to see the screws but i also dont want a full grill over the speaker.

Thanks a ton!

-1994 Dodge Dakota

-Lifted

-Murdered out

-Pro comp beadlock rims and General Grabber At2 tires

-Rockford T1D212

-Rockford 750.1 at 910w RMS

-Focal Solid 4 at 75x4

-Rockford T1 6.5 up front

-Rockford Punch 5x7 in rear

-Sony BT38U headunit with bluetooth,etc

-Rockford 4 Gauge

-Singer 250 amp alt!

-Race accessory HIDS

_______________________________________________

-Soon to come-

D3400

Kicker 2500.1

Fi BL 12[/font]

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do the big 3. there is a thread in the electrical section, near the top, showing how to do it in great detail. it should help with light dimming.

also, dont slam full tilt while idling. your alt will make like half its power while idling, instead of driving. this will help cut down on voltage drop.

wiring your amp (in this case) to one ohm, will allow it to output as much power as it was designed to do. which is a good thing for you

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Using your amp subsonic filter can save you a lot of energy and will have your amp running cooler, also don't get an overly tight enclosure, that will also waste some energy, besides that, doing a big 3 can help your car even if you are not installing any audio, more so in older vehicles. Also 15" sub will get louder on the same power, it will need a bigger box though but consider that if you have some space to spare.

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I feel any car audio system needs the Big 3 upgrade going from 500 watts to 30,000 plus! It strengthens your electrical plus you'll get a better current draw!

The alt only being 90 amps doesn't help a good portion. From what I've read alts produce their greatest output averaging around 1800 rpms.

2006 Ford F150 4.6 3v

(2) Digital Deisgns 3515's D4

Digital Designs M3B w/ Toolmaker Dual Inputs

Mike Singer Built 340 Amp Alternator

Arc Audio KS 300.4

*mids and highs to come soon*

Alpine 148BT

And tons of 0 AWG

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Another piece of advance. Never be to afraid to sacrifice a seat to meet the standard box size requirements. Unless you need it.

2006 Ford F150 4.6 3v

(2) Digital Deisgns 3515's D4

Digital Designs M3B w/ Toolmaker Dual Inputs

Mike Singer Built 340 Amp Alternator

Arc Audio KS 300.4

*mids and highs to come soon*

Alpine 148BT

And tons of 0 AWG

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Share on other sites

I feel any car audio system needs the Big 3 upgrade going from 500 watts to 30,000 plus! It strengthens your electrical plus you'll get a better current draw!

The alt only being 90 amps doesn't help a good portion. From what I've read alts produce their greatest output averaging around 1800 rpms.

Very true, and yes, alts produce their greatest output from 1700-1800 no like what Kranny said earlier, don't go full tilt at idle.

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I quick tip, not sure if you're new to car audio or are getting into it now.. But be patient, patience is a key attribute in car audio, all the money saving, taking the extra time to make everything better, not look cheap. Just take your time and do things right, don't buy a cheaper product because that's all you can afford right now.. Keep your money, save it for something bigger and better. Good luck to you OP! :good:

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I quick tip, not sure if you're new to car audio or are getting into it now.. But be patient, patience is a key attribute in car audio, all the money saving, taking the extra time to make everything better, not look cheap. Just take your time and do things right, don't buy a cheaper product because that's all you can afford right now.. Keep your money, save it for something bigger and better. Good luck to you OP! :good:

Beat me to it! I was just about to say be patient. Don't cut corners to finish the build and for the love of god lol buy OFC wire.

2006 Ford F150 4.6 3v

(2) Digital Deisgns 3515's D4

Digital Designs M3B w/ Toolmaker Dual Inputs

Mike Singer Built 340 Amp Alternator

Arc Audio KS 300.4

*mids and highs to come soon*

Alpine 148BT

And tons of 0 AWG

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Share on other sites

Thanks Guys! And i have sacrificed a seat for my box, it was custom fitted for the little room that i have, it is 1.8-9 cu ft.... i dont remember exactly but it has a flared circle port tuned at 32 hz and is made for a 12... i paid quite an amount for that box so i dont wanna have to have a new one made for a 15. and i understand what yall mean about the saving your money... I went for the cheapest fosgate components for my front speakers and now am thinking of moving to all power series speakers? will these sound any better? Thanks again!

-1994 Dodge Dakota

-Lifted

-Murdered out

-Pro comp beadlock rims and General Grabber At2 tires

-Rockford T1D212

-Rockford 750.1 at 910w RMS

-Focal Solid 4 at 75x4

-Rockford T1 6.5 up front

-Rockford Punch 5x7 in rear

-Sony BT38U headunit with bluetooth,etc

-Rockford 4 Gauge

-Singer 250 amp alt!

-Race accessory HIDS

_______________________________________________

-Soon to come-

D3400

Kicker 2500.1

Fi BL 12[/font]

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