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Is my box leaking?


wellington

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Today I turned the box around (port in front, sub in back) and noticed what I think is a leak sound.

Is there a way I can test for leaks?

How much would a leak affect the sub?

Say, if there was just one screw hole? 2?

2010 HHR LT - DNX 6160 - sony xec-700 - sony xm-4040 for door mids - XM-6020 for tweets in a-pillar - saz1500d v1 - VVME RD-12 1.75 f^3 32hz

guru and president of the "cheap asses trying to beat up the block with bargain bin woofers" club

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There is different sizes of leaks, lol.

They're all bad, but a little screw hole, pin hole or something small, meh. Personally, wouldn't bother me.

But now, say a hole or few for some 8 or 4 gauge wire, for your subs, yes.

I'd play a lower hz tone, not full tilt, but low volume, and go around the box with your hand, and feel for a leak.

Any you find, you could go over with some caulking / liquid nails, whatever you want to use. I'd do it on the inside of the box, if you're concered for looks. If not, fuck it throw it on the outside.

*06 330i - Sundern x12 - saz-3500*


*91 Foxbody V1 S-Trim Notch*

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There is different sizes of leaks, lol.

They're all bad, but a little screw hole, pin hole or something small, meh. Personally, wouldn't bother me.

But now, say a hole or few for some 8 or 4 gauge wire, for your subs, yes.

I'd play a lower hz tone, not full tilt, but low volume, and go around the box with your hand, and feel for a leak.

Any you find, you could go over with some caulking / liquid nails, whatever you want to use. I'd do it on the inside of the box, if you're concered for looks. If not, fuck it throw it on the outside.

how about a small piece of paper or something?

And what about the port not being sealed from the inside of the box? would that matter a lot? Cause I notice a fairly big gap between the port and side of the box...

Could I just use gorilla glue?

2010 HHR LT - DNX 6160 - sony xec-700 - sony xm-4040 for door mids - XM-6020 for tweets in a-pillar - saz1500d v1 - VVME RD-12 1.75 f^3 32hz

guru and president of the "cheap asses trying to beat up the block with bargain bin woofers" club

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also, my box has about 30 screw holes in it. I'm sure that can't be good.... how can I seal those?

I want to get those bolt things that you hammer into the wood and they don't move, and then you drive a bolt into them instead of using the wood screw route.

2010 HHR LT - DNX 6160 - sony xec-700 - sony xm-4040 for door mids - XM-6020 for tweets in a-pillar - saz1500d v1 - VVME RD-12 1.75 f^3 32hz

guru and president of the "cheap asses trying to beat up the block with bargain bin woofers" club

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After reading, I think its time for a new box lol.

But, no paper wont work. As long as there is a seal inside or outside, between each piece, you will be fine, and if that gap on the port isnt sealed, i would.

Not exactly sure on the gorilla glue.

I've only used liquid nails, and all purpose white caulking to seal small seams for extra precaution.

If you don't care about looks, Gorilla tape the whole box. Not duct tape, real gorilla tape. That would be some funny, but good shit though.

And do you mean T-Nuts? Personally, i hate them. Last time i tried to use them, they ended up spinning in the MDF, fucking it up. Maybe thats just my bad luck, or something.

Im not sure on the 30 screw holes part, That uhm. hm. Maybe make a new baffle, and screw it on the top? At least then you would have an extra layer, and not fucked up screw holes, lol.

If my wording doesn't make sense, im sorry. Tired and ready for bed lol.

*06 330i - Sundern x12 - saz-3500*


*91 Foxbody V1 S-Trim Notch*

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After reading, I think its time for a new box lol.

But, no paper wont work. As long as there is a seal inside or outside, between each piece, you will be fine, and if that gap on the port isnt sealed, i would.

Not exactly sure on the gorilla glue.

I've only used liquid nails, and all purpose white caulking to seal small seams for extra precaution.

If you don't care about looks, Gorilla tape the whole box. Not duct tape, real gorilla tape. That would be some funny, but good shit though.

And do you mean T-Nuts? Personally, i hate them. Last time i tried to use them, they ended up spinning in the MDF, fucking it up. Maybe thats just my bad luck, or something.

Im not sure on the 30 screw holes part, That uhm. hm. Maybe make a new baffle, and screw it on the top? At least then you would have an extra layer, and not fucked up screw holes, lol.

If my wording doesn't make sense, im sorry. Tired and ready for bed lol.

I have t-nuts (thanks for the right name) on my JL box and I've only had one come lose, a few times. I'm just really careful when I put the bolts in. just make sure not to push down when you are putting the bolt in or out, is all. I would assume a bit of gorilla glue would help.

I prefer them because you have a dedicated 4-8 holes and never have to guess where to use the wood screw. If you're like me, you are constantly taking the sub out for whatever reason. I'm glad the guy put the t-nuts in the box I had built several years ago.

here are some pics of the box. I figured sealant in all the holes + drilling 4-8 holes for t-nuts would improve that part of the box.

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As for the terminal box, I will probably just use calking.

I never really used that stuff before so I'm not sure how it works. Thought it was just for construction purposes.

Is there any smoke I can poor in the box and then seal the port and play it at a low volume to see where it's leaking?

I don't care about looks, but I was gonna carpet the box anyways. I don't think gorilla tape would be a good solution as I could just use gorilla glue inside the box which would be better IMO (if that's even a good way to seal it)

I will ask my dad about the all purpose calking, he's into construction so he knows about it's uses.

thanks for the tips guys. I'm a little more informed now :)

2010 HHR LT - DNX 6160 - sony xec-700 - sony xm-4040 for door mids - XM-6020 for tweets in a-pillar - saz1500d v1 - VVME RD-12 1.75 f^3 32hz

guru and president of the "cheap asses trying to beat up the block with bargain bin woofers" club

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Not sure how well glue would work though, as, well, its glue. And i'd think it would run, as caulk really wouldn't.

You could try it, wont hurt anything. But im sure as you're putting it in the holes say from the top, it will just drip down.

Nope, its not for just construction

The liquid nails caulking is what i use. Or you could use titebond 2.

( Can't remember the exact name for the liquid nails, its like wood project or something. )

And those seem to be, 8-10gauge holes, i would for sure seal those.

The screw holes, if you have a rubber gasket on the sub, then i wouldn't worry about it. I thought you meant, there was so many, the lip was caving in, and falling apart.

Not sure on the smoke answer, you probably could, but then again, no answer for that.

*06 330i - Sundern x12 - saz-3500*


*91 Foxbody V1 S-Trim Notch*

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alright I used some of this stuff.

sealed everything

now I just want to know how to properly drill holes to mount the Tnuts

one one side, there isn't much room because the guy didn't center the sub hole.

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2010 HHR LT - DNX 6160 - sony xec-700 - sony xm-4040 for door mids - XM-6020 for tweets in a-pillar - saz1500d v1 - VVME RD-12 1.75 f^3 32hz

guru and president of the "cheap asses trying to beat up the block with bargain bin woofers" club

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Don't use caulk.

Use a toothpick in the hole and a drop of super glue and it will seal it better than caulk could ever do.

To be honest though your box looks to be shot and needs replacing, now if you can't do a box you can just open the sub hole and add another baffle on top for the time being till you can build a new box.

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I thnk its time for a new box man, sorry. Those speaker holes can be "fixed" with mounting rings that you can screw to the box then screw the sub to the ring. And you should put silicone on the inside of the box not the outisde.

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