OrionStang Posted September 10, 2012 Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 Did you pay someone to build that? I think they owe you a new one. SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wellington Posted September 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 Did you pay someone to build that? I think they owe you a new one. Nah, it came with the sub. 2010 HHR LT - DNX 6160 - sony xec-700 - sony xm-4040 for door mids - XM-6020 for tweets in a-pillar - saz1500d v1 - VVME RD-12 1.75 f^3 32hz guru and president of the "cheap asses trying to beat up the block with bargain bin woofers" club Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wellington Posted September 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 I just bought a half sheet of 3/4 birch. I'm just gonna make an adapter ring on top of the box. I don't see why I would need to build a whole nother box. It's not completely trashed. 2010 HHR LT - DNX 6160 - sony xec-700 - sony xm-4040 for door mids - XM-6020 for tweets in a-pillar - saz1500d v1 - VVME RD-12 1.75 f^3 32hz guru and president of the "cheap asses trying to beat up the block with bargain bin woofers" club Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Stupid Posted September 10, 2012 Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 Use brass threaded inserts is my suggestion. Heck with t-nuts. Threaded inserts don't cost any more than t-nuts and they won't fall out or spin as long as you drill the correct sized hole for them. Thats just my opinion, but I like stuff that you never have to worry about. T-nuts work best in a soft wood where they can dig in, not MDF. 2006 Cadillac Escalade 2/3 drop on 28" wheels Two RE SX 18" subs RF T2500-1bdCP amp, 3531watts on birthsheet Custom carbon fiber sub box EVERYTHING else is stock, for now 149.4 @ 37hz, Termlab, dash, open window on two AQ3 18s all stock electrical, wired to .25 ohm on a RF T2500 148.8 @ 36hz, Termlab, dash, open window on one AQ3 18 all stock electrical, wired to .5 ohm on a RF T2500 147.8 @ 38hz, Termlab, legal, sealed on two RE SX 18s 146.4 @ 36hz, Termlab, legal, sealed on one RE SX 18 Link to my hack-built, stupid, carbon fiber wasting project.... http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/149946-carbon-fiber-box-update-1494db-37hz-on-tl/ http://gifsoup.com/NDM3MTc1MQ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wellington Posted September 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 Use brass threaded inserts is my suggestion. Heck with t-nuts. Threaded inserts don't cost any more than t-nuts and they won't fall out or spin as long as you drill the correct sized hole for them. Thats just my opinion, but I like stuff that you never have to worry about. T-nuts work best in a soft wood where they can dig in, not MDF. But they do dig in. A little dab of gorilla glue + t nuts = perfection 2010 HHR LT - DNX 6160 - sony xec-700 - sony xm-4040 for door mids - XM-6020 for tweets in a-pillar - saz1500d v1 - VVME RD-12 1.75 f^3 32hz guru and president of the "cheap asses trying to beat up the block with bargain bin woofers" club Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessica Posted September 10, 2012 Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 Use brass threaded inserts is my suggestion. Heck with t-nuts. Threaded inserts don't cost any more than t-nuts and they won't fall out or spin as long as you drill the correct sized hole for them. Thats just my opinion, but I like stuff that you never have to worry about. T-nuts work best in a soft wood where they can dig in, not MDF. there are a lot of varieties of threaded inserts. Which ones do you use? Rest in peace, walled 87 accord build log 03' Corolla build with AA Mayhem inside. My super random youtube channel and terrible camera work. Wiring comparison by CaptainzPlanetz Wire and fuse guide by Guest SyKo13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Stupid Posted September 10, 2012 Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 Use brass threaded inserts is my suggestion. Heck with t-nuts. Threaded inserts don't cost any more than t-nuts and they won't fall out or spin as long as you drill the correct sized hole for them. Thats just my opinion, but I like stuff that you never have to worry about. T-nuts work best in a soft wood where they can dig in, not MDF. But they do dig in. A little dab of gorilla glue + t nuts = perfection Yes, they do. Just enough to make you think they'll stay. Then you jab one as you are putting the screws in and the damn thing falls into the box. Why not spend the exact same amount of money and get threaded inserts and KNOW that they will never, ever fall into the inside of the box no matter how rough you are on them? Not only that, but if your baffle is any thicker than 3/4", you don't even have to drill a hole through the box to put in the insert like you do with a t-nut. You only need to go about 5/8" to 3/4" deep to pit the insert in. 2006 Cadillac Escalade 2/3 drop on 28" wheels Two RE SX 18" subs RF T2500-1bdCP amp, 3531watts on birthsheet Custom carbon fiber sub box EVERYTHING else is stock, for now 149.4 @ 37hz, Termlab, dash, open window on two AQ3 18s all stock electrical, wired to .25 ohm on a RF T2500 148.8 @ 36hz, Termlab, dash, open window on one AQ3 18 all stock electrical, wired to .5 ohm on a RF T2500 147.8 @ 38hz, Termlab, legal, sealed on two RE SX 18s 146.4 @ 36hz, Termlab, legal, sealed on one RE SX 18 Link to my hack-built, stupid, carbon fiber wasting project.... http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/149946-carbon-fiber-box-update-1494db-37hz-on-tl/ http://gifsoup.com/NDM3MTc1MQ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Stupid Posted September 10, 2012 Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 Use brass threaded inserts is my suggestion. Heck with t-nuts. Threaded inserts don't cost any more than t-nuts and they won't fall out or spin as long as you drill the correct sized hole for them. Thats just my opinion, but I like stuff that you never have to worry about. T-nuts work best in a soft wood where they can dig in, not MDF. there are a lot of varieties of threaded inserts. Which ones do you use? I use the standard brass ones you find at your local hardware store. Brass means you can easily drill them out of you need to. They come in a nice variety of metric and standard sizes and are cheap and plentiful at the hardware store. I think I paid about 39 cents each for 16 of them in 1/4-20 last week. 2006 Cadillac Escalade 2/3 drop on 28" wheels Two RE SX 18" subs RF T2500-1bdCP amp, 3531watts on birthsheet Custom carbon fiber sub box EVERYTHING else is stock, for now 149.4 @ 37hz, Termlab, dash, open window on two AQ3 18s all stock electrical, wired to .25 ohm on a RF T2500 148.8 @ 36hz, Termlab, dash, open window on one AQ3 18 all stock electrical, wired to .5 ohm on a RF T2500 147.8 @ 38hz, Termlab, legal, sealed on two RE SX 18s 146.4 @ 36hz, Termlab, legal, sealed on one RE SX 18 Link to my hack-built, stupid, carbon fiber wasting project.... http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/149946-carbon-fiber-box-update-1494db-37hz-on-tl/ http://gifsoup.com/NDM3MTc1MQ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wellington Posted September 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 I don't understand how they work 2010 HHR LT - DNX 6160 - sony xec-700 - sony xm-4040 for door mids - XM-6020 for tweets in a-pillar - saz1500d v1 - VVME RD-12 1.75 f^3 32hz guru and president of the "cheap asses trying to beat up the block with bargain bin woofers" club Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Stupid Posted September 10, 2012 Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 You drill a hole at the exact size they recommend, like say 15/64ths for a 1/4-20. Drill the hole, blow it out. Then you use a screw that fits that insert and put a slightly oversize nut on the screw and screw it into the insert with the nut on the shaft of the screw. Then use a ratchet to drive the screw/nut/insert combo into the hole you drilled. Then put an open ended wrench on the oversize nut and reverse the ratchet to pull the screw out. After you pull the screw out, the insert will need to be driven in another 1/8" or so. Use a flat blade screwdriver on the top of the insert to drive the insert in the rest of the way. Then it's ready to use! I can make a video for you tomorrow evening if you want. 2006 Cadillac Escalade 2/3 drop on 28" wheels Two RE SX 18" subs RF T2500-1bdCP amp, 3531watts on birthsheet Custom carbon fiber sub box EVERYTHING else is stock, for now 149.4 @ 37hz, Termlab, dash, open window on two AQ3 18s all stock electrical, wired to .25 ohm on a RF T2500 148.8 @ 36hz, Termlab, dash, open window on one AQ3 18 all stock electrical, wired to .5 ohm on a RF T2500 147.8 @ 38hz, Termlab, legal, sealed on two RE SX 18s 146.4 @ 36hz, Termlab, legal, sealed on one RE SX 18 Link to my hack-built, stupid, carbon fiber wasting project.... http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/149946-carbon-fiber-box-update-1494db-37hz-on-tl/ http://gifsoup.com/NDM3MTc1MQ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.