Battery+Alt+Big 3 upgrade for 1000watt system?

[Kevin Watts]

So I recently picked up a JL 13w7 and will be powering it with a JX 1000/1D Amp in a custom ported enclosure. I'm taking my time and putting all the neccesary pieces together to have this setup running as smooth and efficient as possible. Its going in a 2011 Honda Civic Sedan after researching and trying to narrow down, here are my options and questions. Note: I have no plans on upgrading after this so I won't be pushing more then a 1000watts to the sub.

okay..

1. Battery

-I've looked at some batteries and did some of the math (that I'm still confused with) and seen three batteries that may support this set up well enough but i'm not sure which one I should choose? Here are my choices.

Kinetik KHC1200

Kinetik KHC600

Optima Yellow Top D51R

I'm leaning towards the 1200 but someone told me the KHC600 is enough, is this true?

2. Altenator

-Even though my vehical is a 2011, I found that DC Power has a 2010 version with the same engine as mine will fit. The question is what amp should I go with?

DC Power - 180Amps

DC Power - 250Amps

3. Big 3 Upgrade

-I've seen it floating around with people saying 2-4 gauge wire when doing a big 3 upgrade. One guy even said 9 gauge that I think was a typo in his text but would like know the recommended gauge I should use for my set up?

Opinions and recommendations are more then welcome, thanks for any your help with this.

[WastedTalent]

for 1000 watts, you actually probably wouldn't need any upgrade to anything. I have HID lights, 2000 watt system, etc and alright, dimming lights when it's cranked but all I have done is a Kinetik battery. Big 3 upgrade and alternator is on the to-do list... when I get the cash.

But honestly, as far as battery? Go as big as will fit. 600 may be enough, who cares. You may upgrade your system and 600 then won't be enough. Get as big as you can fit. And also, on this forum, XS power batteries are recommended.

Alternator... as big as you can afford. 180 would be more than enough for 1000 watt system, but again, you may upgrade your system and 250 may be needed. You can't fry anything by having too big of an alternator. It only pulls what it needs. Just make sure you do the wiring correctly. (As in a big 3 will DEFINITELY be needed)

Big 3... do 1/0 gauge. You can do smaller gauges, but then just need more runs. I'd personally do 1/0 gauge. I mean I'm sure you could do 16 gauge runs... but need what? 10 runs? Lol. Obviously stupid to do that, so 1/0 gauge is recommended. And I'm sure the guy that said 9 gauge meant 0 gauge.. which is fine. But make sure you do your research on the wire as Knu says it's 1/0 gauge but it's actually thicker and is more like 2/0 gauge. So if you get that, it won't fit in 1/0 gauge terminals without being cut or trimmed down to fit.

[ToNasty]

Ypur asking about what to do just for that ONE amp? If so then do the big 3 and tou should be good for now. You shouldnt need a battery until you get to about 1500-2000 rms. Atleast thats what i think. Im running 1200rms in my truck witg stock everything and its fi e

[Kevin Watts]

for 1000 watts, you actually probably wouldn't need any upgrade to anything. I have HID lights, 2000 watt system, etc and alright, dimming lights when it's cranked but all I have done is a Kinetik battery. Big 3 upgrade and alternator is on the to-do list... when I get the cash.

But honestly, as far as battery? Go as big as will fit. 600 may be enough, who cares. You may upgrade your system and 600 then won't be enough. Get as big as you can fit. And also, on this forum, XS power batteries are recommended.

Alternator... as big as you can afford. 180 would be more than enough for 1000 watt system, but again, you may upgrade your system and 250 may be needed. You can't fry anything by having too big of an alternator. It only pulls what it needs. Just make sure you do the wiring correctly. (As in a big 3 will DEFINITELY be needed)

Big 3... do 1/0 gauge. You can do smaller gauges, but then just need more runs. I'd personally do 1/0 gauge. I mean I'm sure you could do 16 gauge runs... but need what? 10 runs? Lol. Obviously stupid to do that, so 1/0 gauge is recommended. And I'm sure the guy that said 9 gauge meant 0 gauge.. which is fine. But make sure you do your research on the wire as Knu says it's 1/0 gauge but it's actually thicker and is more like 2/0 gauge. So if you get that, it won't fit in 1/0 gauge terminals without being cut or trimmed down to fit.

Ironically I'm looking at the XS battery page now and seeing the specs on which battery I should be running. I guess the question behind it is the 1000 watts to the sub is not including the 4 channel amp that I have running to my PA MM6501 components in the front and 651 coaxils in the deck on a JL JX360/4 amp. So would it actually be 1360 watts I'm running rounding off to 1500watts, or should I still look at it as 1000 watts?

I think it would require some modding to fit the 250amp alt so I think i'll stick with the 180.

I believe he meant 0 gauge but if he goes 2 gauge, I don't see any problem with that.

Ypur asking about what to do just for that ONE amp? If so then do the big 3 and tou should be good for now. You shouldnt need a battery until you get to about 1500-2000 rms. Atleast thats what i think. Im running 1200rms in my truck witg stock everything and its fi e

Your in a truck, I'm in a Sedan. I would think yours holds more power then mine consider the bed your pulling. Before I even get to the question about the battery or anything for anyone that I've mentioned my setup to hits me with.."whoa, your gonna up the alt and battery right?!?"

[Jessica]

I think ray once told me something like, "your alt is designed to maintain your cars stock electrical" Thats not an exact quote but you get the point i think. But I was running about 1k on a 65amp and two wet cell batteries and could maintain 13.8 after i replaced my grounds with 1/0. Thats overkill I know but the stock wire is suppose to be 8ga and my 12ga speaker wire is bigger.

My point is;

1. A couple of good batteries

2. 2ga run from alt+ to front battery.

3. 2ga from front battery to rear battery

4. 2ga from rear strut to rear battery

5. Biggest wire you can fit into the amp terminals.

That should be good enough. Even with a smaller alt.But don't do like me, buy what is just good enough then have to re-buy better because you got bit by the bug and upgrade every month or two.

[Kevin Watts]

I think ray once told me something like, "your alt is designed to maintain your cars stock electrical" Thats not an exact quote but you get the point i think. But I was running about 1k on a 65amp and two wet cell batteries and could maintain 13.8 after i replaced my grounds with 1/0. Thats overkill I know but the stock wire is suppose to be 8ga and my 12ga speaker wire is bigger.

My point is;

1. A couple of good batteries

2. 2ga run from alt+ to front battery.

3. 2ga from front battery to rear battery

4. 2ga from rear strut to rear battery

5. Biggest wire you can fit into the amp terminals.

That should be good enough. Even with a smaller alt.But don't do like me, buy what is just good enough then have to re-buy better because you got bit by the bug and upgrade every month or two.

I asked around about adding another battery but most recommendations I recieved said I don't need it if I'm running some good gauges with a HO alt and a higher volt battery.

I'm think of doing 4 gauge from the battery to the distribution block, and splitting off two 2 gauge wires to the Mono amp and 4 channel amp.

I REALLY will not be upping the subwoofer cause I have plans on making a blow thru in a plexy glass box with the sub floating and (not sure) what interior lining of the box. But for now it'll just be a simple ported box.

[Jessica]

I think ray once told me something like, "your alt is designed to maintain your cars stock electrical" Thats not an exact quote but you get the point i think. But I was running about 1k on a 65amp and two wet cell batteries and could maintain 13.8 after i replaced my grounds with 1/0. Thats overkill I know but the stock wire is suppose to be 8ga and my 12ga speaker wire is bigger.

My point is;

1. A couple of good batteries

2. 2ga run from alt+ to front battery.

3. 2ga from front battery to rear battery

4. 2ga from rear strut to rear battery

5. Biggest wire you can fit into the amp terminals.

That should be good enough. Even with a smaller alt.But don't do like me, buy what is just good enough then have to re-buy better because you got bit by the bug and upgrade every month or two.

I asked around about adding another battery but most recommendations I recieved said I don't need it if I'm running some good gauges with a HO alt and a higher volt battery.

I'm think of doing 4 gauge from the battery to the distribution block, and splitting off two 2 gauge wires to the Mono amp and 4 channel amp.

I REALLY will not be upping the subwoofer cause I have plans on making a blow thru in a plexy glass box with the sub floating and (not sure) what interior lining of the box. But for now it'll just be a simple ported box.

I think you want that the other way around.

[WastedTalent]

I think ray once told me something like, "your alt is designed to maintain your cars stock electrical" Thats not an exact quote but you get the point i think. But I was running about 1k on a 65amp and two wet cell batteries and could maintain 13.8 after i replaced my grounds with 1/0. Thats overkill I know but the stock wire is suppose to be 8ga and my 12ga speaker wire is bigger.

My point is;

1. A couple of good batteries

2. 2ga run from alt+ to front battery.

3. 2ga from front battery to rear battery

4. 2ga from rear strut to rear battery

5. Biggest wire you can fit into the amp terminals.

That should be good enough. Even with a smaller alt.But don't do like me, buy what is just good enough then have to re-buy better because you got bit by the bug and upgrade every month or two.

That's what I was getting at. No point in buying that 600 battery cause the other one will fit and will obviously be better incase ever upgrade. The 180 alt is more than enough, but incase he ever upgrades, the other one is better. 0 gauge is fine, 2 gauge is fine, but preferred is 1/0. Might be overkill, as everyone stated but... eh, why buy what gets you by rather than making sure you have enough for future? I know the OP stated never plans to upgrade but... you never know. It's addictive. Lol. I've heard it plenty of times, "I'm done. This is final build" and few months later "Alright, so new build, what should I get?"

And as far as you didn't account for the 4 channel amp so should you stick with sayin 1000 watts or bump it up to 1350 or whatnot? You go by the total watts ran. If you have 1 amp that does 1k watts then another amp that does 400, you wouldn't say 1k watt system, you'd say 1400 watt system. Sure, most watts are the sub but you do add it all up. That's why I say 2k watts for mine. 1500 watt amp for subs, 3-400 for the rest. Not slightly at 2k but close enough.

[Kevin Watts]

I think ray once told me something like, "your alt is designed to maintain your cars stock electrical" Thats not an exact quote but you get the point i think. But I was running about 1k on a 65amp and two wet cell batteries and could maintain 13.8 after i replaced my grounds with 1/0. Thats overkill I know but the stock wire is suppose to be 8ga and my 12ga speaker wire is bigger.

My point is;

1. A couple of good batteries

2. 2ga run from alt+ to front battery.

3. 2ga from front battery to rear battery

4. 2ga from rear strut to rear battery

5. Biggest wire you can fit into the amp terminals.

That should be good enough. Even with a smaller alt.But don't do like me, buy what is just good enough then have to re-buy better because you got bit by the bug and upgrade every month or two.

That's what I was getting at. No point in buying that 600 battery cause the other one will fit and will obviously be better incase ever upgrade. The 180 alt is more than enough, but incase he ever upgrades, the other one is better. 0 gauge is fine, 2 gauge is fine, but preferred is 1/0. Might be overkill, as everyone stated but... eh, why buy what gets you by rather than making sure you have enough for future? I know the OP stated never plans to upgrade but... you never know. It's addictive. Lol. I've heard it plenty of times, "I'm done. This is final build" and few months later "Alright, so new build, what should I get?"

And as far as you didn't account for the 4 channel amp so should you stick with sayin 1000 watts or bump it up to 1350 or whatnot? You go by the total watts ran. If you have 1 amp that does 1k watts then another amp that does 400, you wouldn't say 1k watt system, you'd say 1400 watt system. Sure, most watts are the sub but you do add it all up. That's why I say 2k watts for mine. 1500 watt amp for subs, 3-400 for the rest. Not slightly at 2k but close enough.

All I wanted to know is if what I picked out would be good enough or possibly better to run the set up I have planned, you answered that. As far as picking up the bigger and better stuff for the future, yeah I could but that's a long flight before I get there when I'm fully done with my system. I had that "bug" when I got my 15" alpine type r sealed and went ported, then to a bandpass but from the start I always knew I wanted the 13w7 on a 1000 slash in a blow-thru. Granted the JX is totally exceptable amp, I've never stood in front of a Sundown or some others equipment mentioned on this site to make me want those products but one thing for sure is.. I'm sure about my choice with the sub and amp.

I was just looking for help in doing the math on these 3 important factors on this daily driver so it can continue to be so without shutting down from the system sucking it dry.

As far as the 4 channel amp not being included at the begining of the topic, yes that is my fault. That's why i'm on here asking questions to make sure I don't F**k up my whip and just gaining general knowledge with what the search bar or google can't provide cause even some of these shop dudes I call get stumped.

Thanks for the info, I think I have enough to consider what is best for my system.

[WastedTalent]

I think ray once told me something like, "your alt is designed to maintain your cars stock electrical" Thats not an exact quote but you get the point i think. But I was running about 1k on a 65amp and two wet cell batteries and could maintain 13.8 after i replaced my grounds with 1/0. Thats overkill I know but the stock wire is suppose to be 8ga and my 12ga speaker wire is bigger.

My point is;

1. A couple of good batteries

2. 2ga run from alt+ to front battery.

3. 2ga from front battery to rear battery

4. 2ga from rear strut to rear battery

5. Biggest wire you can fit into the amp terminals.

That should be good enough. Even with a smaller alt.But don't do like me, buy what is just good enough then have to re-buy better because you got bit by the bug and upgrade every month or two.

That's what I was getting at. No point in buying that 600 battery cause the other one will fit and will obviously be better incase ever upgrade. The 180 alt is more than enough, but incase he ever upgrades, the other one is better. 0 gauge is fine, 2 gauge is fine, but preferred is 1/0. Might be overkill, as everyone stated but... eh, why buy what gets you by rather than making sure you have enough for future? I know the OP stated never plans to upgrade but... you never know. It's addictive. Lol. I've heard it plenty of times, "I'm done. This is final build" and few months later "Alright, so new build, what should I get?"

And as far as you didn't account for the 4 channel amp so should you stick with sayin 1000 watts or bump it up to 1350 or whatnot? You go by the total watts ran. If you have 1 amp that does 1k watts then another amp that does 400, you wouldn't say 1k watt system, you'd say 1400 watt system. Sure, most watts are the sub but you do add it all up. That's why I say 2k watts for mine. 1500 watt amp for subs, 3-400 for the rest. Not slightly at 2k but close enough.

All I wanted to know is if what I picked out would be good enough or possibly better to run the set up I have planned, you answered that. As far as picking up the bigger and better stuff for the future, yeah I could but that's a long flight before I get there when I'm fully done with my system. I had that "bug" when I got my 15" alpine type r sealed and went ported, then to a bandpass but from the start I always knew I wanted the 13w7 on a 1000 slash in a blow-thru. Granted the JX is totally exceptable amp, I've never stood in front of a Sundown or some others equipment mentioned on this site to make me want those products but one thing for sure is.. I'm sure about my choice with the sub and amp.

I was just looking for help in doing the math on these 3 important factors on this daily driver so it can continue to be so without shutting down from the system sucking it dry.

As far as the 4 channel amp not being included at the begining of the topic, yes that is my fault. That's why i'm on here asking questions to make sure I don't F**k up my whip and just gaining general knowledge with what the search bar or google can't provide cause even some of these shop dudes I call get stumped.

Thanks for the info, I think I have enough to consider what is best for my system.

No problem man. I'm the same. I'm basically a noob and don't know jack so if Idk, I ask. And as far as not being around Sundown or whatever brand, I'm the same. I know no one who had anything that was even really comparable of rockford. Sure, they went big like 18" or whatnot, but was ghetto. So my RF setup obviously is nowhere near the top or the best of the best, but for what I've personally experienced it is. May not put up numbers like 150db but don't care, sounds good to me.