RevoRacings Ranger, X15 KERFS AND T-LINES

[revoracing247]

I think I know what it is...

Ive been creepin on your Facebook

well there goes my plan to surprise you haha

Love that box man, kerfing can be a pain!, tuned in

thanks! and yeah it can, but it looks sweet in the end! lol

[russtezecustoms]

BROOOOOO!!!! That black box build was great! The issue you experianced is called wrinkle or solvent kraze, it is caused by primer bass coat clear coat incompatability. Basicly the solvent in one layer causes the material under it to reactivate and expand as the layer on top tries to dry. Making that texture. Laquer, enamel, and latex, materials will not work well together. Dont take this as me downing on your build or your skils in any way, afterall they make products that do this effect by design. You found it by accident! I found out the hard way about fourteen years ago when i started doing auto paint and body work. That folded horn is the $#!+. I only wish i had the time and space to try some with my fifteen inch Re's. I allready know i dont have near enough room in my nissan versa and keep my back seat. Keep it up man i love it!

[SnowDrifter]

just a quick update, well sort of.

lets just say i should have a good update by the end of today (april 5th)

New bynines?

[revoracing247]

BROOOOOO!!!! That black box build was great! The issue you experianced is called wrinkle or solvent kraze, it is caused by primer bass coat clear coat incompatability. Basicly the solvent in one layer causes the material under it to reactivate and expand as the layer on top tries to dry. Making that texture. Laquer, enamel, and latex, materials will not work well together. Dont take this as me downing on your build or your skils in any way, afterall they make products that do this effect by design. You found it by accident! I found out the hard way about fourteen years ago when i started doing auto paint and body work. That folded horn is the $#!+. I only wish i had the time and space to try some with my fifteen inch Re's. I allready know i dont have near enough room in my nissan versa and keep my back seat. Keep it up man i love it!

THANK YOU!!!! i've been trying to figure out what caused that! i thought it was maybe, temputure or maybe dust or somethig. though i used krylon primer and bass coat, ect. (except on he gey) wouldn't hey make they're product compatible with one other? and how can i make sure this wont happen ever again? cause it's soooo annoying, it almost ruined my whole paint job haha

and thanks! i love playing around with cool box designs. especially since i don't have the money for big equipment to get loud lol

[revoracing247]

got something!!

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[COLTON94]

Mhmmm sexy amp right there lol idk if my dcs are stayin. If i can find me a good set of 12's then my bro is buying my dcs for what i have in them. I just wana be able to hit the lows and run more power hair tricks in a single cab s10 is the goal

[russtezecustoms]

I have found that if you have that problem with compatable products it is usually an issue with the aplication process at that point. Putting a coat on before the last coat has had time to flash. Or if your using a heat lamp the surface will seem to flash but undernieth its still reactive. Also putting heavy coats over properly flashed coats can do this. My ruel is to check and double check material type, only paint if i can get the room to 65 or warmer, and lots of thin coats. Also you dont want to have any silacone or grease where it can come in contact with your piece but thats a different issue called fish eye. Good luck!!!

[russtezecustoms]

Also about krylon i havent used rattle cans in so long that this my be dated info, but they have several lines each with a specific purpose just check for laquer, enamel, acrilic, acrilic enamel, latex, before the word paint on the lable. But if you have the means go ahead and switch to a hvlp gun, it takes out alot of the veriables once you get used to setting it. The paint you get at an auto paint store is usually pretty compatable as they mix it on site. I dont usually use the factory packed stuff, although im going to on my next project, well see how that goes. To recap: stay with the same line within a brand, keep the heat in the room controlled, use light coats, wait a little longer between changes ( primer to paint to next color to clear). Also you get props for your results with a rattle can!! Did you wet sand and buff or did you just lay it out that slick?

[russtezecustoms]

One more thing (sorry for the thread jack) make sure to practice with the hvlp gun. Most guns have three main adjustments air pressure on the bottom of the handle next to the air line, material meeter on the back on the top of the handle ( like the hammer of a pistol) and fan spread on the left side. Just play with it you want a spread about 6-8 inches wide when 8-12 inches away from the piece with enough material to cover without runs. Overlap your strokes by 1/3 and remember you can allways put more on, its a pain to take it off. Sorry again about the long winded old guy responses.

[revoracing247]

haha it's totally fine, i've been trying to find good info on painting stuff. orangejuiced has also been a big help with panting that box. and i waited for a least 24 hours for the pain to cure before i laid down more. and yeah i looked and the grey paint was enamel so that's the reason it all completely wrinkled. i think the reason my paint also started wrinkling when it was the exact same paint i was laying down was cause it was too cold (>50) and i was laying it on too thick with my first few coats. definitely gonna try controlling more things when i do it again lol

and the only part of the paint i sanded was wet sanding the primer and i still need to get around to buffing i lol i just don't have the stuff to do it.

do you think it'd be worth it to get a harbor freight HV/LP gun and mess around with it then doing it with rattle cans? and thanks for the info man!