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Question for screw in power connection


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you can probably just get a regular copper lug, and snip parts of the end off til it fits in the amp terminal.

Thats what i used, but i didn't snip the end, just filed it down. The auto parts store sell 8, 4 2 and 0ga styles.

op, why not get a 0 to 4ga distro block?

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or why cant you just back the screw out all the way, and put the lug in and then rescrew it down?

or like strangeduck said, just get a d block.

You can just put the lug in, except they are too long for the screw to line up because the lug hits the back of the terminal. So thats why i filed it down. Really a spade connector would be best, if you can find them in 4ga.

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CURRENT SYSTEM:

  • Alternator:
    1. Stock alt on mids/highs
    2. Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v
  • Batteries: (2) XS D1400s
  • Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks
  • Headunit: 80-PRS
  • Sub Amp: DC 5.0k
  • Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones
  • Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal.
  • Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4
  • Active Components:
    • Mids RE XXX 6.5c
    • Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar)
  • Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab.

Build Log

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Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db
Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db
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