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help needed box design for two pioneer ts-w3002d4


Guest akm350z@live.com

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Posted

Ok, you are just making your mind on what to do, for a trunk car the port/subs frontwards (sealed off) or backwards usually give best results, slot ports are cheaper and easier to use than round ports, that's why you see so many boxes done like that. The Pioneers pack a lot of power for the price but you may want to look into other options as well, the subs themselves determine a lot the type of sound you will be getting.

Posted

I'm curious to see the type of output by different boxes for that sub right now. I think I'm set on this sub cause I haven't read a bad review yet for these subs but I'm putting one or maybe two in a Suzuki samurai so I have a somewhat limited space between the wheel wells.

I'm trying to see if someones built a box to get a "clean" sound. I don't want a box to just wang out some crappy bass but I want it loud. Im willing to sacrifice a little sound quality. Plus Im using these cause I live on the coast and need something that will fight the damp/rainy days and nights. I was going to get another Diamond Audio D6 12" or 15" but the only place selling them is asking more than when they were new. I emailed DA and that sub has been discontinued for 2 years so next was the Sundown SD 12 D2 but my negative is the build of materials.

Posted

Not a lot cabin gain in that type of vehicle, it will be hard to get really loud on it. Also those Pioneers are not really SQ subs either, more like a ok sounding, low cost thumping subs.

Posted

I can get some ok bass with my little 10 on about 600 watts, with sub and port forward. I'm looking for sheet metal to weld on a hardtop, for other reasons in spite of the stereo,so maybe that will help.

I hear the Pioneers are more an SPL sub, but curious if anyone is trying to tighten it up a bit. I'm just saving designs and hoping people do build these boxes and post results.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Ok so here is a suggestion for a box, specified in metric units, 18mm wood:

Enclosure Specifications:

Fb = 33.4 Hz

Vb = 3 ft^3

External Height = 37 cm

External Width = 82 cm

External Depth = 51 cm

Port Width = 8 cm

Cut Sheet List:

* All Dimensions in Centimeters.

* Wood Thickness is 1.8 for all Parts.

External Enclosure Parts:

2x Front = 37 x 33.4

2x Front Internal = 33.4 x 33.4

Back = 82 x 33.4

Left & Right Sides: 47.4 x 33.4

Top & Bottom = 82 x 51

Shared Port Internal Assembly Parts:

2 x Front to Back = 43.4 x 33.4

2 x Extension = 14 x 33.4

Assembly guide (generic dimensions):

TSFPF-1.jpg

2.jpg

1-1.jpg

3.jpg

Is it possible to have this in Inches than CM? Thanks

Posted

Better post your max dims in inches and go from there, also state the amp you will be using.

Posted

Better post your max dims in inches and go from there, also state the amp you will be using.

Max Dimension is 36W x 15H x 25D, I have a Hifonics BRZ2400.1D to push 2-12" Pioneer TS-W3002D2. Plan on wiring them to 2ohms in which will give em 1700rms. Looking to be under 34hz if possible. Thanks

Posted

So here's a suggestion, check your electrical to be up to the task and check the notes below the pic:

Enclosure Specifications:

Fb = 33 Hz
Vb = 3 ft^3

External Height = 14 in
External Width = 34.25 in
External Depth = 21 in

Port Width = 3 3/4 in

Cut Sheet List:

* All Dimensions in Inches.
* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.

External Enclosure Parts:

2x Front = 15 1/4 x 12 1/2
2x Front Internal = 13 3/4 x 12 1/2
Back = 34 1/4 x 12 1/2

Left & Right Sides: 19 1/2 x 12 1/2

Top & Bottom = 34 1/4 x 21

Shared Port Internal Assembly Parts:

2 x Front to Back = 17 5/8 x 12 1/2
2 x Extension = 8 13/16 x 12 1/2

Assembly guide (generic dimensions):

TSFPF-1.jpg


Important notes:

- The 45s if you want to do them are 2 1/2" wide except the one/ones inside the port, if you want that let me know.

- All boxes built outside the vehicle need to fit in their way in not just have the right dimensions.

- This box should be operated around subwoofer(s) rated power. If that´s not the case, let me know.

- The port needs 3 3/4" of free airspace in front of it for proper operation.

- Setting your amp subsonic filter to 28Hz is suggested.

Posted

So here's a suggestion, check your electrical to be up to the task and check the notes below the pic:

Enclosure Specifications:

Fb = 33 Hz

Vb = 3 ft^3

External Height = 14 in

External Width = 34.25 in

External Depth = 21 in

Port Width = 3 3/4 in

Cut Sheet List:

* All Dimensions in Inches.

* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.

External Enclosure Parts:

2x Front = 15 1/4 x 12 1/2

2x Front Internal = 13 3/4 x 12 1/2

Back = 34 1/4 x 12 1/2

Left & Right Sides: 19 1/2 x 12 1/2

Top & Bottom = 34 1/4 x 21

Shared Port Internal Assembly Parts:

2 x Front to Back = 17 5/8 x 12 1/2

2 x Extension = 8 13/16 x 12 1/2

Assembly guide (generic dimensions):

TSFPF-1.jpg

Important notes:

- The 45s if you want to do them are 2 1/2" wide except the one/ones inside the port, if you want that let me know.

- All boxes built outside the vehicle need to fit in their way in not just have the right dimensions.

- This box should be operated around subwoofer(s) rated power. If that´s not the case, let me know.

- The port needs 3 3/4" of free airspace in front of it for proper operation.

- Setting your amp subsonic filter to 28Hz is suggested.

Thanks, and yes i will be using the 45s in the port area. Also, do you think I would be able to get these cuts from one sheet of 3/4" MDF board? Lastly, im not familiar with tuning using the subsonic filter, any suggestion on how much of a turn to do to put it at 28hz? Thanks

Posted

Ok so here's how to do the 45s inside the port:

TPort-45s.jpg

If one sheet will be enough it really depends on how the materials are cut so it's not that easy to tell, I would recommend having your MDF purchased at home depot and they will cut it for you, just giving them the cutsheet. Here are some box building guidelines that I frequently post:

Box building tips:

1 Build a cardboard dummy box to see if it fits perfectly in the way in and if you can close the trunk lid without problems.

2) use Titebond II wood glue and MDF/Drywall screws and once it dried apply silicone caulk to avoid any potential leaks.

3) you can get your MDF wood cutted at Home depot, just need a jigsaw to finish the job.

On that amp the subsonic knob has an arrow that when pointing up it's at 25Hz so a bit to the right from that position should be ok, it doesn't have to be exact, what you should look into is setting your gains right and having a proper electrical for that amp.

Any other questions let me know.

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