scooter99 Posted March 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 So, I drove it for the first time today, other than sitting idle in the driveway. I regret to report the battery light still comes on. Car runs 100% smoother and it's got more get up and go. But that damn light won't stop flashing at me. Makes me wonder wtf is going on. My next move I think, is going to be plugging the eld back in and getting it back to what it's supposed to be and eliminate it as far as what's causing the issue. Maybe having it off all the time is causing an issue with the computer. The next thing I have, is now I have engine/ground noise. The whine that comes out of the speakers. SO I have to isolate that down to the issue. I have a feeling about it, but I'm not sure. I think the first thing I might do is remove the 360 from the equation. I'm going to go from the head unit into the mids amp and see if I still have noise. I'll start tracking it down from there. But, the car runs much better, the muffler rattle is gone, and it's paid off. So I should be happy I guess, and I am. Just ready to move on to finishing and not continuing to fix things. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 Pioneer head unit right THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted March 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 Yes. But no engine noise before the belt swap. How is that possible? Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 Sounds strange but it may have been there but at a lower volume. If the alternator is spinning faster now with less drag it may have just now became audible alternator case grounded? THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted March 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 That's a great point. Sometimes the simplest details I forget about. Yes the case is grounded. Maybe I can see about grounding it somewhere else. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walwalka Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 Car is fixed! We're back in business!! Changed the belt, back to original routing with full alt belt wrap, check. Battery light off, check. Engine shutter gone, check!! New muffler hangers to stop the muffler from hitting the springs and vibrate so much, check. Seal up the trunk vents to stop water from leaking in! CHECK!! Car runs sooo much smoother!! I can't wait to get out and drive it!! After sitting in it in the back yard, and playing it a bit but not too loud, I had no battery light at all after 20 minutes, and the voltage on the VM-1 wasn't jumping like it was before. The idle is about 100rpm higher, and it's running very very smooth just sitting there. OH and, btw, I just wrote the last check to pay it off! $331.52. This biotch is MINE NOW!!! Well as soon as I get the title it's mine! LOL Ok I have to go take some nyquil now. I think I made myself sicker being out in the wind and cold for the last 5 hours. Oh well it was worth it. I noticed my car idles about 100rpm high now to because of my alt. The only reason I noticed it was because the car warms up quicker in the mornings now BONUS! lol I'm glad that you have gotten some of the kinks worked out. When does the battery light come on? Any specific RPM or throttle position? I know mine will come on at just over 6k rpm, which to be honest I fully expected that. 2010 Honda Civic LX / Deck: Kenwood DDX371 / Front Highs: Crescendo RTS-1 / Front Mids: Silver Flute 6.5's / 4 channel: DC Audio 90.4 / Sub: Fi 15in SP4v2 / Sub amp: Taramps HD 5000 / Power wire: Knukonceptz OFC 1/0 / Deadener: Audio Technix 60 mil / Batteries: XS Power D5100R / Rear bank: TBD / Alternator: Singer 240a hairpin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted March 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 Before the belt change it was pretty much on rpm increase. Now it seems mid 3's to 5's but doesn't stay on or happen as frequently as before I have a friend with an OBDII scanner too, I think I'll have him put the scanner on there and see if we come up with anything. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nikitaaa Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 Good luck with the car problems and congrats for paying it off! Cant wait until I can say the same. (Then wall the bish!) 2007 M/T Honda Civic Coupe EX (4) Sundown Audio X-8's (2) Ampere Audio 3800.1's (3) Stinger SPV-44 Batteries (1) Mechman 240 3:1 Ratio 4th order sealed from the trunkTEAM NWSPLBest termlab scores to date in Honda trunk:151.7db legal (official) IASCA trunk 3 classBest termlab scores to date in my walled Subie:152.9db legal (unofficial) IASCA advanced 2 class155db outlaw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted March 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 Ok so here's what I've done so far. Pulled the rca's from the 360, and plugged the rca's from the head unit into the mids amp. Tweeter amp and subs are disconnected. Turned the car on, and got noise. Pulled the rcas out of everything, no signal going in, no noise. So it's gotta be the head unit. What I'll most likely do, is either run new wires, and a new ground, or just say fuck it and do the tablet install! Hmmmmmmm Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 Say it ain't so another pioneer head unit that introduces noise. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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