L7 box help

[masterbusa2]

Hey all, was rely just needing some guidance on tuning side of the build process, it's a 10" L7 being powered by a 2400.1 planet audio the red one, running stock electric, big 3 all 1/0,, it's going in a '00 dodge ram

1500 cab and half the one with the bench going across the back, we're cutting legs off seat and building box under the seats then

Bolting seats back ontop, so sub will be firing toward pass seat and was wondering on tuning aspects would toward the driver seat be best or port towards wall? Also since the box is soo much longer would a longer port length and less port area be better, wanting to tune around 30's as the owner of the truck loves that low bass such as ( trunk bang"dorrough",, love for money "Willie the kid",, juice box"idk

Who sings that lol") any help is greatly appreciated

Ps: going for more window flex than anything, I know it's kicker I know your not Gunna get 24hz with a 10, kicker isn't my choice of subs, is only customers choice so please dot bash me but ex-best friend says he can out build me and I haven't built a bunch of normal boxes just never such a long box, an I figured tuning so low on a 10 just seems horrible, but is the request l

[ccmotox99]

Sell the amp and the sub. Upgrade.

[john253a]

What you will the job

What coil config do you have? As this will play a big part to what size box you can use, and how many minutes the sub will last until it goes pop (2011mdl is only rated at 450rms ported, or 600rms sealed)

it's only a single 10 don't tune it so low,

The L710 works wonders at 37-42hz you'll be supprized

Secondly just lie about the tuning and they'll never no,

So once you give us the coil config and some measurements, well be able to help u out some more

[masterbusa2]

The box can be as big as we want, if someone could design my a good t-line we got the whole back of ext cab seats removed, never done a t-line cant be too hard,, and swapped amps to a powerbass asa 1500.1Dx, also was Gunna wire series and pretty sure it's D4

[masterbusa2]

I assume the l7 isn't worth building a t line for tho lol

[CleanSierra]

Any sub can sound good in a T-line. You tune to Fs of the speaker so I would think that would play a factor in even wanting to build the box. If its a D4 you're gonna wire to 2 ohms final at the amp, so what kind of power does it put out at 2 ohms? I think those L7s like some airspace do probably around 2 cubes on good power for that sub. I'd fire the port at the B-pillar and maybe do 2 4" aeros(check port area per foot obviously).

As far as the T-line, give it a shot but don't overpower the sub in that box. T-lines work well on low power typically.

[masterbusa2]

Okay decided to grow some balls and go t-line an the amp outputs 1500@2 3000@1 and yeah I know how to wire and all that just was wondering on a ported box does length of port vs the size of port mouth on such a long box would a smaller mouth and longer port be better or a shorter length and bigger mouth be better either way it tunes to what I want but surely one has greater output than the other

[CleanSierra]

Well to get port width, you'd calculate that by doing numbers for a regular ported box. To get length of port, it's a quarter of your wavelength on your Fs(how most people tune T-lines). I tried finding specs and found 37Hz. The wave is 30 ft and quarter of that is 7.5 ft. Your total port length would need to be 7.5 feet in length for a T-line.

[CleanSierra]

P.S. that's too much power for that sub in ANY situation let alone a quarter wave box.

[john253a]

that sub in a T-line 300rms thats it,

the new amp u listed is 375@4, 750@2, 1500@1

now if you have dual2 and wire at 4 ohm you should get away with a T-line

before you build/design anything you need to check you coil ohm

on a side note im 99% sure you aint going to fit a T-line as youll need close to 90sq" of port 95" long

that work out to be a box of

11.5"h x 19.5"d x 50"w

so idd post a bit more info if you want some more help