FosgateLife Posted December 22, 2012 Report Posted December 22, 2012 Im wondering if im gonna have to get a new alternator or anything besides a new battery for my system Vehicle is 2007 Volvo S40 2.4i I have a stock, factory bosch 150amp alternator. I cant tell what gauge wire it is for the "big 3" wires but i think its 4 gauge. Damn volvos cant see anything in the engine. I have a Rockford Fosgate T1500-1BD. And im going to add a T600-4 for my doors. Im going to get an XS Power D2400. My questions are: Can my stock alternator handle charging that battery? (Absolutley NO ONE makes an alternator for my car) Would doing the Big 3 do anything? Because its gonna cost me around $300-400 to get it done because half the engine has to be taken out of the car in order to do it. Im stuck between a rock and a hard place, help? 2007 Volvo S40 2.4i (no turbo )(Soon XS Power D2400) Stock battery for nowRockford Fosgate 4 gaugeAudioque 6.5" Mid Bass (front)Rockford Fosgate T1 Tweets (front)Rockford Fosgate T2 6.5" Mids (rear)Rockford Fosgats T600-4 (Mids and highs)Rockford Fosgate P3001Fi SSD 12" with PSI recone, building box<p>400 watts, 139.3 @ 42 hz , in the kick window open. Build log!!http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/159148-2007-volvo-s40-audio-build-start-to-current-comment/
FosgateLife Posted December 22, 2012 Author Report Posted December 22, 2012 Confused bump ? Lol 2007 Volvo S40 2.4i (no turbo )(Soon XS Power D2400) Stock battery for nowRockford Fosgate 4 gaugeAudioque 6.5" Mid Bass (front)Rockford Fosgate T1 Tweets (front)Rockford Fosgate T2 6.5" Mids (rear)Rockford Fosgats T600-4 (Mids and highs)Rockford Fosgate P3001Fi SSD 12" with PSI recone, building box<p>400 watts, 139.3 @ 42 hz , in the kick window open. Build log!!http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/159148-2007-volvo-s40-audio-build-start-to-current-comment/
ric006 Posted December 22, 2012 Report Posted December 22, 2012 the big three will help you but u need to use 1/0 not 4ga and i would recommend two bats
FosgateLife Posted December 22, 2012 Author Report Posted December 22, 2012 the big three will help you but u need to use 1/0 not 4ga and i would recommend two bats So should i get 2 separate lower power batteries? Or one D2400 and maybe like a D680? 2007 Volvo S40 2.4i (no turbo )(Soon XS Power D2400) Stock battery for nowRockford Fosgate 4 gaugeAudioque 6.5" Mid Bass (front)Rockford Fosgate T1 Tweets (front)Rockford Fosgate T2 6.5" Mids (rear)Rockford Fosgats T600-4 (Mids and highs)Rockford Fosgate P3001Fi SSD 12" with PSI recone, building box<p>400 watts, 139.3 @ 42 hz , in the kick window open. Build log!!http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/159148-2007-volvo-s40-audio-build-start-to-current-comment/
hegar817 Posted December 23, 2012 Report Posted December 23, 2012 Your stock alternator should be enough fot that setup. You will definately need to add more batteries and upgrade your power and grounds to 1/0 preferrably ofc. Of course if you are most of us you will never be satisfied with your system and will always want to be louder so then you will need to upgrade to a bigger alty but for now just add batts and good wire.
FosgateLife Posted December 23, 2012 Author Report Posted December 23, 2012 Your stock alternator should be enough fot that setup. You will definately need to add more batteries and upgrade your power and grounds to 1/0 preferrably ofc. Of course if you are most of us you will never be satisfied with your system and will always want to be louder so then you will need to upgrade to a bigger alty but for now just add batts and good wire. No one including me is ever satisfied, but this will keep me going for another 6-12 months. lol. I was plannin on using ALL Rockford Fosgate 0 gauge wire. But should i/ do i need the big 3? 2007 Volvo S40 2.4i (no turbo )(Soon XS Power D2400) Stock battery for nowRockford Fosgate 4 gaugeAudioque 6.5" Mid Bass (front)Rockford Fosgate T1 Tweets (front)Rockford Fosgate T2 6.5" Mids (rear)Rockford Fosgats T600-4 (Mids and highs)Rockford Fosgate P3001Fi SSD 12" with PSI recone, building box<p>400 watts, 139.3 @ 42 hz , in the kick window open. Build log!!http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/159148-2007-volvo-s40-audio-build-start-to-current-comment/
alaskanzx5 Posted December 23, 2012 Report Posted December 23, 2012 yes, if you read above it said you need the big 3. since you cant get an alt you need to upgrade the stock battery and add another to your trunk. between the 1500.1bdcp and the 600.4 your looking at around 150-250 amps of draw at full tilt ( guessing ). all together your gonna have somewhere between 200-300 amps of draw between the car and full tilt on the stereo. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.
Max1636 Posted December 23, 2012 Report Posted December 23, 2012 150 Amp is decent for a stock amp. I'd stay with that for now. I'd definitely recommend the big 3 my engine now starts faster and even with my old 90 Amp alternator before I upgraded my voltage went from 14 to 15. It shouldn't be that difficult to do but if you can't upgrade the alternator wire at least make a nice ground on the chassis. Then start adding batteries. I'm not from the US so I don't know much about XS Power batteries. But I have an Optima YellowTop in the front and a 1000CCA AGM in the back which keeps my voltage stable. (Old Car) 1995 Volkswagon Golf MK3 2.0L: Fi SP4 18 On A DC Audio 3.5K In A PWK Box Hertz DSK 6" Speakers, Clarion HU 3x Fullriver 120aH AGM's, 225A Alt 2012 Subaru BRZ: Audison Prima APK 163 Bit One, Rockford Amps, Audison Sub
Jessica Posted December 23, 2012 Report Posted December 23, 2012 Maybe i am crazy, but op, do you drive around listening to test tones? You might draw 150 amps at certain times. Here is some food for thought The way you want to figure out of the alternator is suffice is to take your max current draw (in your case this would be 400 amps on a 4K amplifier) and then divide it by 3 (your operational draw is one third of your max draw for daily current draw when everything is in use) With that being said your looking at around a 133 amp draw from your sub stage amplifier. Any other draws in the vehicle usually do not exceed 40-50 amps daily (vehicle electronics and car computers etc) This is an email from Mike Singer of Singer alternators, to me. Basically, unless you listen to tones, musically you don't draw that much amperage for long periods of time. You will probably be ok with your alt, but an extra battery or two won't hurt. Get a good volt meter and keep an eye on it. I am currently running a skar 1500 and a 65X4 amp for the mids and two batteries off a 65amp alt and unless i am an idiot i don't see below 13.5. edit: spelling Rest in peace, walled 87 accord build log 03' Corolla build with AA Mayhem inside. My super random youtube channel and terrible camera work. Wiring comparison by CaptainzPlanetz Wire and fuse guide by Guest SyKo13
alaskanzx5 Posted December 23, 2012 Report Posted December 23, 2012 thought amps pulled about 1/2 their max amperage draw on music? guess not, puts you closer to 150-200amps of draw on music then. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.
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