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Input on port area


Spencer Good

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So, i've got my new box designed for my 4 Type-r 10's and i'm a little worried about the port area. Manufacturer reccomended port area is 11^2, i've got it at 12.24^2 and i'm still worried it might be small. I've never dealt with a setup this big myself so i'm not sure if this looks right. Heres my stats.

17bg92.png

Now, I think I should be fine since i'm sticking to manufacturer recommendations so closely ( 1.1cf, 11^2) but my friends say otherwise. I know lots of big designers spend some time on SMD so I figure i'd get some external input. Appreciate it.

2012 TORed Challenger

4 Alpine Type-R 10

1 Brutus 2400.1

20' Knu 1/0 OFC

1 XS Power D1200

i8YxD.jpg

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The type R recommended specs don't sound as good to me. I built a box for my type R 12's exactly to factory specs, and then again based on some recommendations and the new box is way more efficient and sounds much better. Factory suggested 1.5 ft tuned to 33 hz with around 10 inches of port per foot. When i moved to 2.25 ft per woofer tuned to 32 hz with about 14 inches per foot of port area, it made 2 12's louder than the 3 i could fit before. So in summation: they like bigger boxes with a little more port area than the factory suggests anyway so I think your design is good.

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The type R recommended specs don't sound as good to me. I built a box for my type R 12's exactly to factory specs, and then again based on some recommendations and the new box is way more efficient and sounds much better. Factory suggested 1.5 ft tuned to 33 hz with around 10 inches of port per foot. When i moved to 2.25 ft per woofer tuned to 32 hz with about 14 inches per foot of port area, it made 2 12's louder than the 3 i could fit before. So in summation: they like bigger boxes with a little more port area than the factory suggests anyway so I think your design is good.

Cool beans.. appreciate the input.

2012 TORed Challenger

4 Alpine Type-R 10

1 Brutus 2400.1

20' Knu 1/0 OFC

1 XS Power D1200

i8YxD.jpg

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There's something really important and that is trunk car boxes should basically never be done subs up. (going by your sig).

I've got it done subs up right now and it sounds pretty good.. What is your reasoning for this if you don't mind me asking? and what would be your alternative suggestion

2012 TORed Challenger

4 Alpine Type-R 10

1 Brutus 2400.1

20' Knu 1/0 OFC

1 XS Power D1200

i8YxD.jpg

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Considerable efficiency loss (resulting in less output) and in most vehicles lid rattling, looking at your dimensions if those are maximum I would say that you will likely have to stick with that configuration. But what would be wrong with your current box?

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Considerable efficiency loss (resulting in less output) and in most vehicles lid rattling, looking at your dimensions if those are maximum I would say that you will likely have to stick with that configuration. But what would be wrong with your current box?

Not enough space to keep the rubber surrounds on my subs, but if I can figure out another box where I can have subs back port back I would be in business.. i'm sure it would be twice as loud. Hell if I can do that I dont care if I have to keep them bare. I've been trying to figure out something but i'm just running into some serious limitations. My max dims are 15x40x26

2012 TORed Challenger

4 Alpine Type-R 10

1 Brutus 2400.1

20' Knu 1/0 OFC

1 XS Power D1200

i8YxD.jpg

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well, if I'm making it not fit all the way into the cubby already i'd say its closer to 15x45x24. If I went with something this large though, i'd only have about 3" of breathing room to the rear of my trunk. Hell I had less with my 15's though and those sounded very good. Joe how do you feel about subs up if i've deadened the absolute shit out of the trunk lid? I have so much deadner left over I could easily triple line mine trunk lid

2012 TORed Challenger

4 Alpine Type-R 10

1 Brutus 2400.1

20' Knu 1/0 OFC

1 XS Power D1200

i8YxD.jpg

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