mav1989 Posted February 9, 2013 Report Posted February 9, 2013 Hello all. Been gosting this site, love all the work done here. I need some of your guy's advice. I have a 2012 Subaru Sport Limited 5 door (hatch back). Ive already measured out my space etc. I can work in about 4ft cubic space in the trunk while still keeping it below the cargo cover and still leave a little space for other stuff. This is my daily driver, will need to occasionally get groceries etc. But on to the question: What do you guys think I can safely power? The alternator is only 110. Since this car is still new (less 6 months old) I want to keep as much stock as possible. IE. I want to try to avoid big 3, replacing alt etc aka void as little warantees as possible. I currently have a stock battery. Swapping that out is no problem. How much can I push?
RyanJ Posted February 10, 2013 Report Posted February 10, 2013 Once you see light dimming / get a VM-1 and wen your volts get lower, get a batt or alt. around 1000-1500 should be okay. MOB-MOBILE: 2005 Honda Accord 5-Speed System: (1) Sundown Audio SA-15 (1) MB Quart ONX1.1500D (1) Kenwood KDC-248U Speakers: -Rear Dash: (2) Clarion SRQ6932R 6x9's SOLD New MOB-MOBILE: 2011 G37S Sedan System:TBD Instagram (18+) : DabsWitaBudget415
mav1989 Posted February 10, 2013 Author Report Posted February 10, 2013 Once you see light dimming / get a VM-1 and wen your volts get lower, get a batt or alt. around 1000-1500 should be okay. perfect. I was hoping to run ~1200 for 2x type r's or something along those lines. Great, thanks! Problem w/ replacing alt on these cars (or so I hear) is that it runs from the alt, to the fuze box before hitting the battery which poses a few problems?
RyanJ Posted February 11, 2013 Report Posted February 11, 2013 Yeah I wouldn't doubt it having a few extra steps for replacing the alt. my friend had 2000ish watts with no big 3 or H/O alt and his light started to dim but he said fuck it n kept going. His car died on the freeway with a burnt battery haha MOB-MOBILE: 2005 Honda Accord 5-Speed System: (1) Sundown Audio SA-15 (1) MB Quart ONX1.1500D (1) Kenwood KDC-248U Speakers: -Rear Dash: (2) Clarion SRQ6932R 6x9's SOLD New MOB-MOBILE: 2011 G37S Sedan System:TBD Instagram (18+) : DabsWitaBudget415
Emmet Posted February 11, 2013 Report Posted February 11, 2013 Yeah being honest avoiding the big 3 is a bad idea, all it does really is create a path of lesser resistance to cope with the excess pull if you get me? It can be removed and will put a little less strain on your cars system. Something worth doing in a new car. i shook this one kids hand and it just folded in mine. long story short i fucked his girlfriendso.. yeah.. You want this to happen to you? Give decent handshakes people. I was gifted with an innate ability to distribute wholesale ass beatings in a timely and orderly fashion.
Crandis16 Posted February 11, 2013 Report Posted February 11, 2013 With the HO alt and no big 3, it'll be like pumping water from a fire truck trough a garden hose. It'll be restricted due to the size of wire. Definitely get a battery too if you get a HO alt. you'd probably be fine with just an extra battery too, but might as well do alt too in case you decide to upgrade. My Red zx2 Build Log My Black zx2 Build Log My Red zx2 UBL
95legwagon Posted February 11, 2013 Report Posted February 11, 2013 subaru alts are really easy to replace. and doing the big 3 i just took off the wire that goes to the fuse box and replaced it with the wire i made (with a fuse rated to the alt). no problems. the fuseable link is the problem with the stock wiring.... if it burns out then no power to car. hope this helps i think there real i was looking through that guys stuff he sells and it looks like he finds stuff at auctions and just sells it Yea, it looks like someone got the mids about a month ago....shit. If I had a whole Hertz front stage my ears would jizz all over my cheeks. / LOL My Low Budget Build: Green 1995 Subaru Legacy wagon 147k- $1K headunit- pioneer premier deh-p650-$25 4 Lead acid batts. 1 up front and 3 in back- vented outside.- $50 4 vvme L11 10"s <- $30 shipped a piece 6 cu. ft box (after displacment) tuned to 32ish hz with 10 inch sonotube. -about $50 all together maybe a lil more 2 aspm 1300 strapped Selenium 6"s in the front doors on headunit power- for now -$20 quantum tweets in door-for now -$10 boston acoustic 5 1/4 in rear doors- for now-Free big 3 1/0 and 4awg throughout. roof sound deadened (not peel n seal ftw)-free on 80 amp alt (bench tested to put out 100 amps faithfully) <--?-$10 for test about $430 for everything<----Not bad at all still gotta add 3 way crossover, amp for front and rear door speakers and maybe eq
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