bassfreake Posted February 12, 2013 Report Share Posted February 12, 2013 I don't want quite that much light on the box though... I was thinking if I wired it so the lights were wired into the subs themselves then that would be kinda cool and I could have lights that actually showed when that particular sub was hitting... that would be pretty cool I think lol Thanks I was pretty excited about the alt myself. kind of like a school girl, in a dress, on a swing. lol It's warming up enough that the donut-punching cyclist douchenozzles are getting their two wheeled fagmobiles out. My Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wicks Posted February 12, 2013 Report Share Posted February 12, 2013 The best option is to get an LED controller. The LED strips have resistors built into them that are designed for 12v. Connecting to an amp output could pulse much higher voltage and damage the resistors/LEDs. Just because they initially work, it doesn't mean they aren't being damaged over time. Diodes usually fail "short" which is not good on a device that is not fused and directly connected to a high current supply (amplifier). LED controllers are cheap and give you lots of options for different pulsing patterns and adjustable brightness. very true, i mean who knew if i kept them in there for ever on that initial setup, thanks for the explanation Sure thing. I'm not saying that directly connecting to an amp is always a bad thing. Depends on the internal voltage rails of the amp. Some smaller amps may work fine, but larger ones could be trouble. Another thing to remember is that an amp outputs an AC signal. LEDs (diodes) only conduct in one direction so you're really only getting light on half your sound wave. A controller should react to a signal in both directions. Probly not a big deal as half-wave may be plenty of light but something to think about.... More to think about. LED controllers have either small microphones, audio jacks or both. Be careful with the little microphones if you mount them in close proximity to your sub-box. The higher SPL could damage the microphone. I had a controller that flaked out for that reason. Is it just any LED controller? I would like to add more LEDs to my new system I am getting, But as you said it may create problems later on. I only used the 2 led pods on a Alpine Mrp-1000 at 2 ohms. The new system will be substantially bigger than what I had. Any chance on a link? If you could also direct me to some LEDs that would pulse that would be good also. Try a google search for "sound activated LED controller". There are tons online. I've bought a couple different IR versions and an RF (remote control type). They're all relatively similar but there are some feature differences depending on what you want. I'm on mobile and I can't recall where I got mine, possibly eBay if nothing else. I'll dig around and get back to you. This post sent with 100% recycled electrons. 2004 BMW M3Mechman 280A 2 - XS Power XP30001 - XS Power D375 500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F) iPadMini2Dash mounted O-scopeAudison bitOne (Remote DRC MP) Highs Amp - PPI Art A404 Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...) DC Audio DC9.0K 2- DC Audio XL12m2LEGAL - 147.3dB @ 41Hz OUTLAW - 150.2dB @ 45Hz OUTLAW - 145.7dB @ 30Hz JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER 2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER SOTM BUILD:http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wicks Posted February 12, 2013 Report Share Posted February 12, 2013 I don't want quite that much light on the box though... I was thinking if I wired it so the lights were wired into the subs themselves then that would be kinda cool and I could have lights that actually showed when that particular sub was hitting... that would be pretty cool I think lol Great thing about those LED strips is that you can literally cut them to any length you want! This post sent with 100% recycled electrons. 2004 BMW M3Mechman 280A 2 - XS Power XP30001 - XS Power D375 500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F) iPadMini2Dash mounted O-scopeAudison bitOne (Remote DRC MP) Highs Amp - PPI Art A404 Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...) DC Audio DC9.0K 2- DC Audio XL12m2LEGAL - 147.3dB @ 41Hz OUTLAW - 150.2dB @ 45Hz OUTLAW - 145.7dB @ 30Hz JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER 2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER SOTM BUILD:http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassfreake Posted February 12, 2013 Report Share Posted February 12, 2013 lol yea that's awesome... I really think I might do this next time I upgrade my subs lol Thanks I was pretty excited about the alt myself. kind of like a school girl, in a dress, on a swing. lol It's warming up enough that the donut-punching cyclist douchenozzles are getting their two wheeled fagmobiles out. My Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carbon Posted February 12, 2013 Report Share Posted February 12, 2013 Hooking up LEDs directly to your speaker terminals is like maxing out the gain because it "works" I don't understand? It worked for 4 years without any ill effects to anything to my system and the LEDs still work perfectly. It worked because you aint loud son! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassfreake Posted February 12, 2013 Report Share Posted February 12, 2013 Would putting the wires for the lights into the subs instead of the terminals on the amp make any difference as to how much juice is going to them? Thanks I was pretty excited about the alt myself. kind of like a school girl, in a dress, on a swing. lol It's warming up enough that the donut-punching cyclist douchenozzles are getting their two wheeled fagmobiles out. My Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carbon Posted February 12, 2013 Report Share Posted February 12, 2013 Would putting the wires for the lights into the subs instead of the terminals on the amp make any difference as to how much juice is going to them? Please dont do either. if you must have leds get a sound module. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassfreake Posted February 12, 2013 Report Share Posted February 12, 2013 but then it isn't actually connected to the sub itself... I want them partially so I can see when each sub hits... so like if for whatever reason the subs aren't in phase with eachother for example I can actually see it Thanks I was pretty excited about the alt myself. kind of like a school girl, in a dress, on a swing. lol It's warming up enough that the donut-punching cyclist douchenozzles are getting their two wheeled fagmobiles out. My Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carbon Posted February 12, 2013 Report Share Posted February 12, 2013 but then it isn't actually connected to the sub itself... I want them partially so I can see when each sub hits... so like if for whatever reason the subs aren't in phase with eachother for example I can actually see it but then it isn't actually connected to the sub itself... I want them partially so I can see when each sub hits... so like if for whatever reason the subs aren't in phase with eachother for example I can actually see it Direct wire a module to each signal wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CW06Silvy Posted February 12, 2013 Report Share Posted February 12, 2013 but then it isn't actually connected to the sub itself... I want them partially so I can see when each sub hits... so like if for whatever reason the subs aren't in phase with eachother for example I can actually see it Why would that matter? If they get the same signal they should be in phase.. If they arent getting the same signal then if you dont have the right equipment to set it up why are they in the same box? On the whole LED thing, seriously do not plug your led light crap into the amplifier terminals! The audio equipment is for just that, audio, if you hook lights up to the terminals (some idiots will always argue that it'll work) you are forcing the equipment to do things it was not designed to do. Your amplifier and subs WILL feel those LEDs on that line and although you dont notice, it will do damage. The engineers that designed that subwoofer and amplifier are a hell of a lot smarter than you and they designed it for AUDIO, not redneck wiring. Just buy a light module and set up your system correctly and you wont have a problem, no need to see if your woofers are "in phase" and no need to rig wiring incorrectly. Spend the little bit extra and do it right the FIRST time. ...end of rant... 2006 Silverado Ext. Cab 6-15" SSA ZCONS 4th Order Blow-Through Pioneer AVH-P4200dvd American Bass VFL 1100.1 12 volt 6 C&D Batteries 2-350A Singer Alternators and Stock Alt DC Power Triple Alt Kit MLA Module 3 Runs of 1/0 2 Sets of Boston Acoustics 6.5 Pro Components Boston Acoustics 2-channel Lots of Sound Deadener ....Build still in Progress... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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