CW06Silvy

Sounds to me like either cramming too much stuff into a small space or trolling.

I need to know how to break them. Should I use a hammer or an axe? Is this a serious question? No i need enclosure recommendations. I thought he would be more knowledgable since he builds the damned things WOW somebody is ignorant! There is 100s of people on here who could help you optimize that for YOUR car and you act like that? Hell if I was rusty I wouldnt even answer that email anyways, especially seeing this (but I do understand he will because customer service is important).. Heres my .02 CHILL DOOD!

Interested in the 2nd run for sure!!

What ever happened to this?

clip in english.. |

Why in god's name would you do that? You do know that a term lab is designed to measure below 250hz right? I've heard some dumb things, but something about this makes me hope you damaged your tl with the heat from that.. I also agree with swift.. no way if u already have stock electrical you are spending 10k bucks, not to mention you havnt said what equipment you are running in this said system.. Just be a man and play the truck running.. so what if you gotta shut it off or something.. Plus with the rumors of a 148 something? My bullshit meter is pinging.. EDIT: As an added note if you had that kinda money you would be driving a Ford or Chevy.. just sayin

This entire thing seems dumb. You actually metered the truck under the hood 6in from the turbo? lmao Your gonna spend an extra 6k bucks so you can turn your truck off? With 10k in my truck and doors open you cant hear a damn thing when I turn the wick up. And these Powerstrokes aint quiet. That escalated quickly..lol

As far as woofers go, I would make a special motor and basket assembly. I would install 2 sets of air check valves (one in the pole vent of the magnet, the other between the magnet and the spiders) Then I would take a small condenser coil and put it over the pole vent of the magnet. When the woofer would move forward, the upper check valves would close and create a vaccuum within the woofer for the cool air to be sucked in from the condenser through the pole vent check valve. Then, when the woofer begins to move backward, the upper check valves would open (air presssure would force them) and the pole vent check valve would close and remain closed to force warmed air out the upper check valves. Repeating motion would move air through the woofer. As far as the amplifier goes it is going to be much harder. You would have to make some sort of self-controlled power supply that involves a variable transformer that is controlled by the amp. The power supply would first have to chop the DC input power into an AC power source, then it would go through a variable transformer that would step up the voltage (depending on needs) and then this new voltage would have to be rectified back into a DC power source. Once you do this the voltage input to the business end of the amplifier would be much higher, and the transistors that help amplify the signal would have a much higher peak amplification. Once you do all this and install heavy-duty transistors and double up the leg connections, they would have to be basically dipped in a di-electric paste and placed into a custom c&c heatsink that would circulate the coolant directly over the transistors and cool the amplifier. Long story short---this is gonna cost a lot.

I have had this problem once before. I had an alpine headunit that was doing something similar. I used a new wire to hook up remote to the HU. The HU would not turn on the rockford amp that was used. I remember hooking up the remote to the accessory wire that turns on the stereo. That way the key sw controlled both the radio and the amp at the same time, and its right back behind the HU as well so you dont have to mess with anything else. I dont remember specifics of the HU problem, but this worked well as a solution.

Holy coaxal!!! That thing is going full tilt!!

...I have a feeling you are trying to tell me something...lol

2 7.5K's Zip:61025

where could i look for the support brackets, and what kind of bolts are we talking about here?, i mean like how much bigger?

Im not sure i understand what you are saying about the hood clearing.. my hood on my 06 looks almost identical to the HD 06 hood, would i have to get a fiberglass cowl then?

alright, i got 2 18" solox in my truck and running about 3krms a piece, they are in a 10cube box tuned to about 35 hz.. Im gonna say wall it and put the port behind the driver's seat.. the back is useless and those solos will love the extra space (they seem to like bigger enclosures).. Use a larger port area and make sure you brace the hell outta that box, i would even do 1.5" sides with heavy internal bracing (can only help).. i had 1 solo in a box like u want to build in the back of a pontiac grand prix.. it was loud, but the box ended up breaking and it was MDF.. Gotta go big or go home with a setup like that man, might as well get all ur money's worth.

Alright guys i got a question that i need some expert advice on. I currently have a 2006 silverado 1500 with the 5.3L v8 and its an extended cab. I really wanted to do a 6.6 duramax/allison swap, but then realized what good is all that power without the bigger HD frame. A couple guys I know got various wrecked d-maxes at their junkyards and i know one of the frames is flawless.. Do you think its possible to build up a rolling 2500hd chassis with motor and all and put my LT3 1500 cab and box on it? I figured if i sold all my 1500s parts i could make some cost back, but i cant just buy a new truck, because i hate to say it but i dont have the best credit coming out of college. I already looked into the length of the frames and they are the same, but would they mount? What else would I have to do?

From East Dubuque, it is literally in the northwest corner of illinois.. i can drive 6 miles and be in 3 states..lol..

Ok, so total noob to the world of performance vehicles, and im really hoping someone can throw me a line. I have a 2006 silverado 5.3l and just finished installing my audio setup (about 700 pounds), and needless to say this thing does not accelerate anymore... Seems like if you mash the gas it just makes more noise. I am getting dual exhaust put on it next week, and do not have thousands to spend now, but would like to get a lil more pep in my truck. If anyone has any ideas im all ears!

hell no, powerbass is crap.. My buddy (CC_audio) had bought a powerbass xtreme 4000watt amp off someone and it seemed like he was calling me every other week to fix the damn thing.. they are JUNK!!!

I hate to say it, but it looks like you cant do that.. The reasoning is that the amplifier you are using is a monoblock which has 1 output, just because it has 2 sets of terminals dosent mean they arent connected inside the amplifier. if you hook that sub up like you want to that amp will be seeing 1 ohm. you are gonna have to wire them in series and take the 4 ohm load to the amp, which i think puts you around like 800rms?? I would either get another sub and run two subs @4ohms then paralelled to the amp (2 ohms) or get a different amp altogether.. GOOD LUCK!

you could have just bought a $3 switch from like advanced auto and looked at the wiring diagram. All you have to do is wire the parking brake switch wire to the other black wire.. works like a dream.. did it on mine, just flick switch off and on 2x and ur set