CW06Silvy

Sounds to me like either cramming too much stuff into a small space or trolling.

I need to know how to break them. Should I use a hammer or an axe? Is this a serious question? No i need enclosure recommendations. I thought he would be more knowledgable since he builds the damned things WOW somebody is ignorant! There is 100s of people on here who could help you optimize that for YOUR car and you act like that? Hell if I was rusty I wouldnt even answer that email anyways, especially seeing this (but I do understand he will because customer service is important).. Heres my .02 CHILL DOOD!

Interested in the 2nd run for sure!!

What ever happened to this?

clip in english.. |

Why in god's name would you do that? You do know that a term lab is designed to measure below 250hz right? I've heard some dumb things, but something about this makes me hope you damaged your tl with the heat from that.. I also agree with swift.. no way if u already have stock electrical you are spending 10k bucks, not to mention you havnt said what equipment you are running in this said system.. Just be a man and play the truck running.. so what if you gotta shut it off or something.. Plus with the rumors of a 148 something? My bullshit meter is pinging.. EDIT: As an added note if you had that kinda money you would be driving a Ford or Chevy.. just sayin

This entire thing seems dumb. You actually metered the truck under the hood 6in from the turbo? lmao Your gonna spend an extra 6k bucks so you can turn your truck off? With 10k in my truck and doors open you cant hear a damn thing when I turn the wick up. And these Powerstrokes aint quiet. That escalated quickly..lol

As far as woofers go, I would make a special motor and basket assembly. I would install 2 sets of air check valves (one in the pole vent of the magnet, the other between the magnet and the spiders) Then I would take a small condenser coil and put it over the pole vent of the magnet. When the woofer would move forward, the upper check valves would close and create a vaccuum within the woofer for the cool air to be sucked in from the condenser through the pole vent check valve. Then, when the woofer begins to move backward, the upper check valves would open (air presssure would force them) and the pole vent check valve would close and remain closed to force warmed air out the upper check valves. Repeating motion would move air through the woofer. As far as the amplifier goes it is going to be much harder. You would have to make some sort of self-controlled power supply that involves a variable transformer that is controlled by the amp. The power supply would first have to chop the DC input power into an AC power source, then it would go through a variable transformer that would step up the voltage (depending on needs) and then this new voltage would have to be rectified back into a DC power source. Once you do this the voltage input to the business end of the amplifier would be much higher, and the transistors that help amplify the signal would have a much higher peak amplification. Once you do all this and install heavy-duty transistors and double up the leg connections, they would have to be basically dipped in a di-electric paste and placed into a custom c&c heatsink that would circulate the coolant directly over the transistors and cool the amplifier. Long story short---this is gonna cost a lot.

I have had this problem once before. I had an alpine headunit that was doing something similar. I used a new wire to hook up remote to the HU. The HU would not turn on the rockford amp that was used. I remember hooking up the remote to the accessory wire that turns on the stereo. That way the key sw controlled both the radio and the amp at the same time, and its right back behind the HU as well so you dont have to mess with anything else. I dont remember specifics of the HU problem, but this worked well as a solution.

Holy coaxal!!! That thing is going full tilt!!

...I have a feeling you are trying to tell me something...lol

2 7.5K's Zip:61025

where could i look for the support brackets, and what kind of bolts are we talking about here?, i mean like how much bigger?

Im not sure i understand what you are saying about the hood clearing.. my hood on my 06 looks almost identical to the HD 06 hood, would i have to get a fiberglass cowl then?

alright, i got 2 18" solox in my truck and running about 3krms a piece, they are in a 10cube box tuned to about 35 hz.. Im gonna say wall it and put the port behind the driver's seat.. the back is useless and those solos will love the extra space (they seem to like bigger enclosures).. Use a larger port area and make sure you brace the hell outta that box, i would even do 1.5" sides with heavy internal bracing (can only help).. i had 1 solo in a box like u want to build in the back of a pontiac grand prix.. it was loud, but the box ended up breaking and it was MDF.. Gotta go big or go home with a setup like that man, might as well get all ur money's worth.