Nates_Veloster Posted February 11, 2013 Report Posted February 11, 2013 I put this in my alternator thread but think that it requires it's own thread. I done a search and didn't find anything that will hit peoples opinions straight on this subject. After doing some research there seems to be both sides of the argument about doing a run of both positive and negative from front to back battery. I am trying to figure out how much welding lead to go with and trying not to throw away money that isn't needed. So what are your thoughts about running positive and negative from front to back? Is it worth it or just run positive from battery and hit negative on a strut or ground to metal? Fi/DC/SHCA/SMD fanaticSome people talk about changing the world, others of us actually do it.Violet's Build:Dynomat Xtreme deadener (all doors and trunk)(2) RF 200w circuit breakerRF RCA'sVM-1 1/0 gauge welding leadBig 3 Singer Hairpin Alt (blue)7" touch screen HU (factory)Diamond tweets Mids (front) RF 6.5Mids (rear) CVL64MBX Massive 7 band EQ/Xover/line driverSky High 12 g wire & heat shrink for 1/0 gDB Link/Sky High Ring Terminals2 - Fi BL 12'sPorted box tuned to 32 DC 175.4DC 2kD2700 and XP950 XS BatteriesProject DB connectors/step downsDD-1
Mario928 Posted February 11, 2013 Report Posted February 11, 2013 How much power are you going to run? Build Under Construction Head Unit = Kenwood DDX514 Amps = Kicker 750.1, Going to install Sundown 1500D v3 and Sundown 125.4 Battery = XS D3400 Wires = Kicker RCA's, 0 Gauge street wire and Stinger Mids and Highs = Stock Sub= Kicker L7 12" Alternator = 220 Mechman Sound Deadner= Fatmat and Stinger Road Kill
08tahoe Posted February 11, 2013 Report Posted February 11, 2013 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147995-ground-to-the-chassis-or-run-a-ground-cable-ce-auto-electric-supply-partners-with-damore-engineering-to-answer-video-on-pg-5/?p=2115806
Nates_Veloster Posted February 11, 2013 Author Report Posted February 11, 2013 Thanks young. It didn't show that on my search. I must have done something wrong. I am running 2500 watts total on a fi bl 12 and mids/highs. Fi/DC/SHCA/SMD fanaticSome people talk about changing the world, others of us actually do it.Violet's Build:Dynomat Xtreme deadener (all doors and trunk)(2) RF 200w circuit breakerRF RCA'sVM-1 1/0 gauge welding leadBig 3 Singer Hairpin Alt (blue)7" touch screen HU (factory)Diamond tweets Mids (front) RF 6.5Mids (rear) CVL64MBX Massive 7 band EQ/Xover/line driverSky High 12 g wire & heat shrink for 1/0 gDB Link/Sky High Ring Terminals2 - Fi BL 12'sPorted box tuned to 32 DC 175.4DC 2kD2700 and XP950 XS BatteriesProject DB connectors/step downsDD-1
SnowDrifter Posted February 11, 2013 Report Posted February 11, 2013 Depends on how big your alt is and what kind of car ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444
Nates_Veloster Posted February 11, 2013 Author Report Posted February 11, 2013 My head is spinning so I am glad they simplified it. Under 4k, just chassis ground it instead of full runs. I have a 90 alt right now (factory) but trying to upgrade but no one makes them. I have a hyundai veloster - 2012. From what I am gathering its better to ground chassis it than full run both. Fi/DC/SHCA/SMD fanaticSome people talk about changing the world, others of us actually do it.Violet's Build:Dynomat Xtreme deadener (all doors and trunk)(2) RF 200w circuit breakerRF RCA'sVM-1 1/0 gauge welding leadBig 3 Singer Hairpin Alt (blue)7" touch screen HU (factory)Diamond tweets Mids (front) RF 6.5Mids (rear) CVL64MBX Massive 7 band EQ/Xover/line driverSky High 12 g wire & heat shrink for 1/0 gDB Link/Sky High Ring Terminals2 - Fi BL 12'sPorted box tuned to 32 DC 175.4DC 2kD2700 and XP950 XS BatteriesProject DB connectors/step downsDD-1
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